Additional Kitchen Sockets

[postcorner]

Appreciate any help guys thanks

Rennovating an extremely old kitchen (1960's). Want to add sockets and have three questions.

Have a cooker switch which is on a 30 amp trip fuse marked 'Cooker' from the main fuse box. Currently we have added a 30 amp junction box to remove the cooker switch and connected a double socket onward instead. The junction box also leads to power the controls for the central heating via a 5amp fuse switch.
Also looking to spur onward from the double socket up to another single socket to power the extractor hood.
Do I need a 13 amp fuse switch between the 30 amp junction box and the double or from the double to the onward single? The cable is 4mm going into the junction box and 2.5mm coming out to the double, heating controls etc.

Have another double socket which has a single 2.5mm cable going in. This is isolated from a separate 30A fuse in the main fuse box marked 'power sockets'. Need to spur off this for a socket to power a washing machine. Does this need to be via a fused switch?

Have yet another double on the other side of the kitchen. Doing nothing with this but it has two cables in and so I guess it's on the ring main. This appeared isolated when the 'power sockets' fuse in the main box is off, as is the socket in the above paragraph, and yet when removing, the mains power tripped, suggesting it wasn't fully isolated? Why would this be?

Thank you

Steve

 

[industryspark]

1, if you've wired a socket from the junction box in 2.5mm cable you now have a 30A fuse/breaker protecting a cable rated below 30A!!

seen as you only have one double socket there at the minute its probably not an issue but its not right and needs doing correctly. as for spurring off again thats a big no no.

Do I need a 13 amp fuse switch between the 30 amp junction box and the double

this would be a a start.

Have another double socket which has a single 2.5mm cable going in. This is isolated from a separate 30A fuse in the main fuse box marked 'power sockets'. Need to spur off this

a single cable going in already tells me this is a spur from the ring. you cannot spur off this again. the correct way to doing this is ring-fused switch-spur-spur

regarding the cooker circuit i believe you would be aloud to convert this to a radial socket circuit wired in 4mm Twin n earth. maybe this is your best route?

am sure someone will correct me if am wrong on that.

oh and also this work i believe is notifiable so do you know anything about part p?

 

[RF Lighting]

It sounds like your wiring is in a bit off a mess to be honest.
You might be better to get an electrician to check it out, and at least advise you what needs doing.

 

[dingbat]

If the kitchen dates from the sixties I'd guess that most of your wiring does too.

This means that you either have very few sockets about the house, or various owners have added to the installation along the way. Here's a list of a few things I'd be looking out for:

Surface mounted sockets.
Sockets on skirting boards.
No earth on lighting circuit/s.
Junction boxes galore under the floors, possibly some unprotected terminations and circuit protective conductors unsleeved and maybe twisted together outside the JBs. (Oh, and a fair chance that conductor insulation is exposed a few inches outside of the JBs.)
Surface clipped cables running around architraves and painted over .
No (or inadequate) main equipotential bonding.
No supplementary equipotential bonding.
Cast iron main cutout with rusty steel bolts clamping an inadequate earth conductor.
Overcrowded Wylex fuseboard with several unidentified circuits, some of which will be undersized for their protective devices.

And I'd put money on this one - no certification whatsoever.

As RF has said it sounds like you're long overdue for an inspection and I would be surprised if a rewire isn't the solution.