Adjusting the toe setting

[northernchappy]

Hello all,
measuring aside, can anyone tell me how tricky the actual adjusting is?
Also.. how tricky is it to slacken the rod ends as iv'e seen garages use heat to get the securing nut loose, and also how tight to do it up again.. not wanting the track rod end falling off while driving etc.. lol

 

[Mursal]

If the spokes on the steering wheel are in the straight ahead position when going down the motorway, just adjust each track-rod the same amount. If the steering wheel is slightly to the left or right on a straight road, this can be adjusted out while adjusting the tracking (- or + toe).

Can be difficult to loosen the locking nuts, but takes just the normal tightening to lock. Usually corrosion causes them to lock on.

If you are unsure, my advice would be to stay away from brakes and steering, until you get more experience. Its just not worth the hassle

 

[Peter.N.]

I have been using a simple home made tracking device for about 40 years, it consists of a length of metal conduit tube with a length of threaded rod with two nuts on inside it. I do have a sort of ramp which makes it easier because you obviously can't jack it up and do it.

I adjust the rod length until it just touches the inside edge of the tyres at a point in front of and behind the centre of the wheel, you need to use a couple of blocks to make sure you have it at the same height front and rear, once its just touching at the front I move it to the back, if its loose there the wheels are towing in, if its tight they are towing out. I always adjust them to just toe in but only a fraction, just the difference between it sticking between the tyres and falling out. As most settings are toe in/out to parallel I find this works fine with all the cars I have had, I get almost perfectly even tyre wear and long life.

Peter

 

[Burnerman]

To adjust, the track rod ends are slackened a turn or two (they aren't usually that tight) and then the track rods are turned with mole grips. The nuts are nipped up again afterwards.
No need to remove the track rod ends from the hub!
Are you getting severe wear on your tyre edges or something?
John

 

[northernchappy]

Are you getting severe wear on your tyre edges or something?
John

Yep unfortunatly.. it's the nearside front that gets heavy outer shoulder wear after a while. the toe setting needs adjusting fairly often. I try to avoid bumps/potholes/sunken manhole covers etc.. but seems to gradually adjust itself after about 6 months.
I've jacked it up (both sides) and checked theres no play in the trackrod ends/bearings and all's fine.

After the latest visit to garage immedialty did a basic measure using a plumbline. after a few basic calculations it seems the garage have toed the front wheels out a little bit. I'll keep an eye on measurements and what the tyres are telling me.
(front wheel drive)

The plumbline merthod takes ages and wont work if windy but is ok for a basic check.

Thanks all for the info.

 

[Ron Gamma]

I have been using a simple home made tracking device for about 40 years, it consists of a length of metal conduit tube with a length of threaded rod with two nuts on inside it. I do have a sort of ramp which makes it easier because you obviously can't jack it up and do it.

I adjust the rod length until it just touches the inside edge of the tyres at a point in front of and behind the centre of the wheel, you need to use a couple of blocks to make sure you have it at the same height front and rear, once its just touching at the front I move it to the back, if its loose there the wheels are towing in, if its tight they are towing out. I always adjust them to just toe in but only a fraction, just the difference between it sticking between the tyres and falling out. As most settings are toe in/out to parallel I find this works fine with all the cars I have had, I get almost perfectly even tyre wear and long life.

Peter

I don't have a ramp so use a piece of fence post with a wooden upright at each end. Into the uprights are two decking screws set at the height of the stub axle centre line to give the adjustable gap between the two inner wheel rims. Using the manufacturers settings I can adjust the toe-in/out myself and the car ride hide remains normal. Much cheaper than the big tyre shops and just as effective.

 

[Peter.N.]

Good man. Probably more accurate than many 'professional' jobs, I wouldn't trust anyone else to do my tracking.

Peter

 

[Avocet]

Yep unfortunatly.. it's the nearside front that gets heavy outer shoulder wear after a while. the toe setting needs adjusting fairly often.

Thanks all for the info.

That doesn't sound right. I think there's something wrong that's causing it to go out so often. If you jack the car up and let the wheels hang, it will move the balljoints (and track rod ends) to a "new" bit of their surface that they hardly ever use in normal driving, so you might not be able to feel any play. They're best checked with the weight of the car on the wheels, having driven forward and stopped gently (no reversing). Grab hold of the track rod end and get someone to rock the steering side-to-side while you feel for any play - usually given away by a slight "clicking" feel in the trackrod. Also, don't forget the inner balljoints (at the other end of the track rod where it joins the steering rack - usually under the gaiters. Also look for slop in the rack mounting rubbers.

Incidentally, these are much cheaper than traditional gauges and work pretty well:

http://www.trackace.co.uk/