Air Trapped in sealed Boiler system

Boiler pre dates purge programs dude ;)

OP the filling loop on your way makes it a ball ache to drain and work on.

My (and every sensible boiler man's way) makes like easier.
 
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Gigz - Thanks. No I don't know what the purge P0 programme is.
There is a button marked like a flame with a X through it. I have used that to 'purge' the system when there has been a F22 fault, seems to restart and clear everything.

However I am stuck where I was with a pump valve bled of air and the black cap open slightly and 1.3 bar pressure on the system. Where from there?

As in my post above, could you confirm my next steps please .......
> Do I now leave the pump valve black cap lightly open? Half a turn?
> Should I close up the boiler and run it with heating on?
> Or bleed anything out in the rads first while still cold then run the boiler?
> I am still confused by this filling loop direction? It might not be overly important but it's either right or wrong and always has been. And now is the time to reverse it if necessary. What should I do, the point was raised that it is fitted wrong?​

Many thanks to all
 
Sorry if I am labouring the steps, but I'd rather do as advised by you guys and then ask for confirmation of the next steps than just do something wrong again.
Please see steps above marked >

Thanks for your patience and help.
 
Yes if it is not leaking.

Leave the case off so you can vent and bleed the pump if it makes noises.

If you like.

Read my last post carefully. However, it is not the end of the world either way.




Just make sure the pressure stays above 1.
 
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Op as said if not leaking leave open. Just keep trying now auto air release is open air will find its way out. I find having the pump for 20 second then turn off, bleed, repeat
 
As dan says, if it was drained down swapping the nrv would be better for future draining (just make sure the arrows point in the right direction). Yes bleed everything with the power off first, Leave cover off untill done, leave air vent open 1/2 turn. I always run with gas off first to stop overheating (this is just my personal way to do it).
 
Thanks to all.
And thanks simond, your advice to open up the boiler front to access the pump auto vent and unscrew the black cap solved it, air gushed out. That cleared the pump and fired up the boiler.
I didn't know I could open the boiler without treading in RGI territory. The rest from there was fill and bleed. I have now run the heating a few times then let it settle to bleed off air, mostly on upper floor rads. It reads 1.5 bar and hopefully can stay there.

>> Filler Loop - I keep on about the filler loop because it confused me greatly, and I take your point Dan. As it is I can't drain water off for things like this because of where the non-return valve is, it is on the heating side and therefore won't allow water back out of the system.

But, that is how the new R24 filler loop from Screwfix was assembled, exactly as in the picture. To do as you advise I would have had to take off the flex hose from the NRV side and swap it around to the other side of the same valve, same thread no problem. Then fit that assy wth the NRV the correct way round on the cold feed side. In turn then swap the other valve currently on the feed in over to the heating side, then fasten the flex hose to both.

It's not rocket science and is logical now I look back at it. BUT..... I wouldn't assume that a filler assembly would need taking apart and reversing in order to achieve that.
I think the old loop that had been leaking, although showing an arrow of direction, maybe wasn't actually a NRV. When I blew through it there was no resistance, it allowed air to be blown through it in both directions.

I will leave it all alone for now as the system seems fine. If I need to drain down again I will swap it all over as described above.

Thanks again to all, got me out of a fix.
It's easy when you know how - and I didn't! And everything is obvious .... to the man who knows.
All the best, thanks a lot.
 

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