aritech alarm system

[Sarah O Connor]

Hi guys,
I have a aritech cs250 alarm panel which i'm trying to wire up. I have all the cabling already installed in my new house, but i want to try out the system on my kitchen table first. I have the panel, keypad, sounder, pir and door contact.

I have the bells and keypad connected up. But I'm stuck!! the zones have me all confused. I believe that zones 1 + 2 share one of the two wires each zone requires, right? But where do the other ends of these two wires go to on the detector. I was trying to connect them to the alarm termanals on the pir. (I did also had a 12vdc power supply to it) but it wasn't working. I had to go for a 'force arm' because i was getting "bus tamp" error message. The dector failed to set the alarm off despite system armed appearing on the display.

Please Help.
Thanks Sarah

 

[andy]

each PIR needs power. contacts dont. for power, they are wired in parallel. all reds together in +ve etc. the zone wiring is in series. if you have 1 cable coming back, its just a case to 2 wire going to the zone. if more than 1, you have to either take cable from alarm to detector and another detector, and keep it in series at first detector, or wire them in series on the alarm panel. 1 core from each detector to the panel, and join the other 2 with terminal block

 

[Sarah O Connor]

thanks for the reply, i'm more confused, sorry!

In my house i have all the cables for the pir's, contacts, bells, etc. wired back to the alarm control panel.
I understand how to provide power to each pir.
I was hoping (as i dont have very many) to have each pir / contact on a separate zone.

1. Are the alarm contacts n/c ?

2. What wires do i connect to where and to where at the pir and the panel (trying my best )

3. Can the tamper be just a single separate zone for the whole house, or do it work differently. I sometimes see the error message zone 1 tamper which leaves me wondering
Thanks
sarah

 

[andy]

1. Are the alarm contacts n/c ?

yes

2. What wires do i connect to where and to where at the pir and the panel (trying my best )
you need to connect each detector to a zone in the panel. in PIR's, you need to connect power, and 2 cores for the alarm. )normally blue and yellow, altho you can use any colour)
3. Can the tamper be just a single separate zone for the whole house, or do it work differently. I sometimes see the error message zone 1 tamper which leaves me wondering
depends on the alarm panel (havent used the panel you have before). you could have a global tamper or 1 tamper for each zone. most likely global tamper, there there will only be 2 terminals for the tamper. just aslong as you keep everything on the same zone in series, you should be OK. and have you tried the manual? there are normally diagrams in that

 

[Sarah O Connor]

so i wire one of the wires from the door contact to the first terminal (zone 1) and the second wire to the terminal shared between zone 1 and zone 2.
Am I right? If i am it dosn't seem to be working.
Thanks for the reply

 

[breezer]

IF your Aritech is like all the other Aritech panels, it needs shunt and end of line resistors (4k7, is usually what Aritech use) I would suggest you read your installation manual and see what it says.

I base this on your comment "error message zone 1 tamper "

you may be able to change the optiion to use global tamper (not a good idea though) again read the manual

as for wiring, look in the for refernce post, (not yet) i am going to post a drawing

 

[Sarah O Connor]

Thanks for your reply breezer. how exactly does this tamper system work? It sounds like a better system than a global tamper for fault finding at least. The panel actually came out of another building so I dont have the manual and cant seem to get hold of one. I have the user and engineer codes though. There was a rake of resistors stuck in it when i got it but somebody told me that i didn't need them that whatever they were used for could be set up in the engineers menue on the keypad. Some of the resistors were fitted in the pirs. Is this usual? Thanks for you help. Sarah

 

[Sarah O Connor]

Perhaps you could try to explain to me again how to wire the zones back at the panel. As that is my real difficulty. Thanks

 

[breezer]

sorry i am a bit busy now (i have something to do for a couple of hours) , but while you are waiting, you will need to get all the resistors you can.

to be honest it would be better if you could get new ones, maplin sell them you need 4k7 ohm, 2 for each cct (and a few spare)

oh and could you post a pic of the inside of your panel?

 

[Sarah O Connor]

thanks for all your help, i really appreciate it. I already have 8 resistors that came with the panel there not new but look ok. I have more on order from RS, should have them next week.

Here are two photographs of the panel:

 

[Sarah O Connor]

six of my resistors are coming in at about 4.69K ohms and the other two at 0.992 each approx. I measured them with a meter.

 

[breezer]

great clear pictures, i should't worry about the resistors you have they are fine, they are made to be within 20% of stated value (so they are fine)

regarding connections, all they are doing is using 3 termials for 2 ccts. the centre one being common, which some panel makers now do.

I have updated the drawings in for refernce for you

 

[Sarah O Connor]

took me a minute to figure out i should be using macro mode but i managed it in the end!

I only have one door contact so i will wire it at the end of line version shown in your photograph right?

So do i wire the other two ends of this cable into the first and second terminal on the panel (taking zone 1 as an example) ?

When I got the panel (it had been installed for a short time somewhere else) the unused zones seemed to be linked together with resistors. Do I need to do this again (although now that i think of it i wont have very many) or can i just disable them in the engineer menu.

What are the connections to the right of the zones for. I notice there were wires connected to some of them on the old system which was very basic.

Thanks Sarah.

 

[plugwash]

umm where did you get that 20% figure from?

the resistor color coding system doesn't cover anything worse than 10% and 5% seems to be the norm theese days for cheap miniture resistors.

 

[breezer]

plugwash, ok typo

Sarah,
yes

yes

resistors would be best


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