How do you do all that clearing and priming etc with no access from above?
Attaching light to 'dodgy' ceiling
- Thread starter martinh1961
- Start date
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Assuming you have enough access to do it (which, as BAS has implied, is doubtful unless one can get at it from above) ... if, in the name of 'removing debris', you break off all the bits of plaster which protrude through between the laths (which is not that difficult, if one has access), the plaster on the room side is at risk of coming loose, and maybe falling off.
Kind Regards, John
If you read my previous quote, hole saw slightly smaller than ceiling rose, that should give plenty of access!
In debris, I mean the loose carp that,s is left up in the void, I never mentioned breaking anything away from anything, and would not recommend damaging the bond formed by lath/plaster or any part of it's fabric.
What is it with you guys?
I have done this plenty of times, generally enough access to spread a little PVA about and get some dollops of addy in, not had one or any part of a ceiling drop on me yet! And fortunately can say that the ceiling roses and light fittings have stayed secure also!
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It sounds as if you are probably very clever, lucky, or encounter different L&P ceilings than me. The 'back' of every L&P wall or ceiling I've come across is like the Himalayas, which I don't think I'd find easy to deal with through a <3" diameter hole.! However, if you find it easy, then that's great.
Kind Regards, John
Were you a gynaecologist before you became an electrician?
On a similar tack, I must say that I nearly suggested that an endoscope might be a useful tool for some of the 'keyhole' activities being discussedWere you a gynaecologist before you became an electrician?
Kind Regards, John
Hole sawing is the best, easiest and causes less damage than any other cutting implement I have tried to use.
I always carry one in my medical bag!
I always carry one in my medical bag!
I don't think that anyone (certainly not I) necessarily disagrees with that - virtually all suggestions offered involved pushing bits of wood through a hole in the ceiling, the only difference being that you were the only one to write about how the hole was to be produced.. The comments made have related to what you are apparently clever enough to be able to do through a hole (however produced) which is smaller than the footprint of a ceiling rose!
Kind Regards, John
You can get a "piece" of wood that is larger than the hole through the hole.
Cut it into strips that will go through the hole and then using glue and canvas hinge them together. Single hinge is simple. If there is more than one hinge they have to go on alternate sides to allow the strips to fold flat against each other.
Once in place it may require a piece laid temporarily across the strips to stop them folding as the screws are driven in.
Cut it into strips that will go through the hole and then using glue and canvas hinge them together. Single hinge is simple. If there is more than one hinge they have to go on alternate sides to allow the strips to fold flat against each other.
Once in place it may require a piece laid temporarily across the strips to stop them folding as the screws are driven in.
You could go retro with one of those great big massive plaster ceiling rose things.
Would cover enough to get a 3"x2" noggin between the joists
Would cover enough to get a 3"x2" noggin between the joists
I think trying to push bits of wood into the hole and holding it there is very difficult.
As said, the surface above the ceiling is anything but flat.
And applying glue to to a dusty surface like that is gonna be hard.
If moving the fitting over to a more substantial area is not possible, it may be worth trying spring toggle fixings - should catch on something.
As said, the surface above the ceiling is anything but flat.
And applying glue to to a dusty surface like that is gonna be hard.
If moving the fitting over to a more substantial area is not possible, it may be worth trying spring toggle fixings - should catch on something.
Expanding foam sticks quite well to that sort of surface. It's easy to hold the wood in place, just loop a piece of string round it and hang a weight on it. It only needs to stick well enough to take the strain of drilling and inserting a couple of screws.
All true, but IME, it can be 'fun' (and messy!) getting the foam into roughly the required place - whether one tries putting it on the wood before pushing it through the hole or squirting it in after putting the wood in.
Also, be prepared to possibly have to use quite long screws - those 'Himalayas' of plaster on the back of the laths can sometimes mean that the piece of wood ends up an inch or more higher than the upper surface of the laths.
Kind Regards, John
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