ballcock sticks to flush unit

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The Torbeck is extremely small. There is a newer version out now which is bigger, and possibly has a longer life, also a version of the Fluidmaster which is available with a brass stem, rather than plastic, and is less easily damaged if you are clumsy with the spanner. I like the old Torbeck as shown, but they are prone to grit or dirt collecting inside, and need to be unscrewed and rinsed in clean water when this happens (usually after the water has been cut off and limescale has washed into the pipe). This is no trouble as long as you have a service valve nearby to turn the water off. I think my oldest one is about 24 years old now and still working fine.

You will find either the Torbeck or the Fluidmaster very much quieter than your old valve, for this reason I always use them now instead of the old type with a big round float.

If the syphone is very awkward, you can remove it and replace it with a Flapper http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/424925 valve, which takes up hardly any space and gives a quiet, powerful flush, or a modern Fluidmaster flushing valve, which you can often get in a set with the filling valve.

It is more work to change the flush, as you have to take the cistern off, and the fixing screws are probably rusted solid, unless the previous person was thoughtful enough to use stainless.

You will find the parts cheaper at Screwfix, eithe mail order, or collected from your nearest store. http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=fluidmaster&fh_view_size=20[/QUOTE]

Thanks,

Having a quiet flush would be nice.

I had a quick look at the links you sent (thanks), I can't from seeing the images figure out how everything connects up, but will have a further look and study.

I've removed the cistern and replaced the flush unit to the one you see in the photo. I also changed the doughnut thing :). As I have no leaks now I was hoping not to remove the cistern again - but maybe it's my only option.

On my inlet I was told to place an olive in the brass pipe. When I remove the pipes do I need to replace the olive - my understanding is it gets crushed when tightening.
 
Having had another look at your photo
click on it

I think you may cure the problem by slackening the nut under the cistern holding your ball valve in place, and rotating it clockwise to move the arm away from the syphon. The ball looks as if it will swivel if necessary.

If the rubber washer under the valve is old, it might leak until you fit a new washer. This would be the quickest and cheapest fix.
 
the olive does not need to be replaced, especially if you are using the same nut and fitting as before, unless it has been damaged. e.g. with pliers. What will make it seal better, either on re-use or if it does not seal well when new, is to dry it, and put a few turns of PTFE tape on the olive, overlapping onto the copper pipe. This repels water and seals tightly. Do not put it on the threads, and it does not need to be on any part of the copper pipe except adjacent to the olive, so it does not need to show after assembly.

Some old plumbers, who grew up in the days of tallow, boss-white and paraffin blowlamps, dislike PTFE tape, but it is ideal for this purpose. You will find it in the plumbing section, very cheap. It is amazingly thin.
 
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I removed the arm are tried to bend it. But it's tougher then I :LOL:

I will try rotating first.

If not then I will take things apart and install:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-lever-fill-valve-cistern-pack/81585

- It's not what I wanted to do as I'm not confident in putting things back without a leak again...but I guess may not have an option.

BTW - your right screwfix is cheaper (alot) , but none in my area.
 
Blimey, 60 posts and still can't get it right. :rolleyes:

Anyway, Mamaji. Take the syphon out and put it back at 180 degrees from how it is now, then fit a Fluidmaster inlet valve in place of the ball cock.

It's a common thing that happens on this style forum. On the other forums sense it happens all the time. Just without sarcastic replys!

:rolleyes:
 
Would I need to replace the doughnut seal and clamp plate.

I did replace it when installing the new flush unit. Can they be re-used.

Thanks
 
the doughnot only needs to be changed when it is squashed or perished, and the plate and screws when they are rusty, which is very common when an old syphon is replaced. If yours is nearly new it should be fine.

If you can buy some silicone grease, you can grease the rubber and the screw-threads before reassembly.
 
You've got a straight foreward job there like john has pointed out just move the ball valve round slightly by slackening the nut under the cistern.
 
Get rid of the syphon and fit a flapper valve.
Fluidmaster PRO73UK:
fluidmaster-pro-series-shower-accessory-pro73uk.jpg
 
Thanks for all the advise on this,

I will try moving the ball valve around - hopefully that will do the job for me.

It's been a real eye-opener to see these newer / quiter / easier to fit units. I may be tempted to install the ones you mention. BUT let me get a working, leak free toilet back first.

Cheers guys :D
 
What do you think of the lever flush valve?
We are struggling to sell what we have in stock and are thinking of sending them back to the manufacturer. People seem to prefer the button type.
 
I like the lever system it's very smooth and can be moved up or down with a little finger.

The biggest advantage I see is with the kids, both are small and find it a struggle to reach push buttons and even if they climb up! to reach the push, they then struggle to press.

It's relativily quiet and easy to install, I would recommend it - but then again I have very little experience!
 

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