Bathroom fan
- Thread starter gigz
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1) yes
2) no
Are you able to access the space above the ceiling, such as a loft? The best fan is usually an inline ducted one, which is too big to put on a wall.
How many steamy showers do you have in a day, and how is the bathroom heated?
2) no
Are you able to access the space above the ceiling, such as a loft? The best fan is usually an inline ducted one, which is too big to put on a wall.
How many steamy showers do you have in a day, and how is the bathroom heated?
not for smells but many offer humidstat options and some with PIR
Wall , ceiling or loft mounted?
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Flat roof so wall mounted. It’s heated with a large towel rail but it has porcelain tiles (floor and walls) and ceiling cladding so nowhere for the moisture to go. Fitted the existing one but it’s crap. Auto wanted for moisture not smells 
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Are you sure you have a big enough gap under the door to allow air into the room?
Without enough air into the room the fan simply can't work and don't be tempted to open the window either
Without enough air into the room the fan simply can't work and don't be tempted to open the window either
Then what happens to it?
The Vent-Axia Svara is a smart fan that can be controlled by :
intelligent light sensor with over-run timer. Can be continuous or intermittent with timer and humidity functions.and even has a SmartPhone app!
PS Doesn't make the coffee though.
intelligent light sensor with over-run timer. Can be continuous or intermittent with timer and humidity functions.and even has a SmartPhone app!
PS Doesn't make the coffee though.
moisture just sitting on tiles/cladding.
You need heat and ventilation
Have you checked the vent outside is clear?
I needed a good solution for a bathroom with no windows, so I looked into this a lot a while back.
A few things to consider
1) As other's have pointed out, one thing you need is a good airflow into the room. but, it's not just a case of opening a door.
If you have a door open (or any opening) too near the fan, the fan will be just taking air from that door and there will be no air movement across the bathroom.
Ideally you should have a small vent inlet at the opposite end of the room from the extractor. So airflow is pulled across the room. Ideally the inlet should be low down.
It my case I drilled a few holes in the bottom panel of a bathroom door and put a grill on it.
Without any decent inlet into the room, the fan will just stall. It can't move any air.
2) The impeller style axial fans, which are the least aesthetically obtrusive have the least amount of "push". They can cope with very short ducting. Through a cavity wall is just about what they can cope with. But they don't really move a large volume of air with much force.
A much better solution is a centrifugal fan. These are designed to move large volumes of air through ducting and have a lot of "push".
The downside is that you have a bigger box on the wall in most cases, but they are much more effective.
In my case I needed one to extract air through about 2 to 3 metres of ducting.
After looking at a lot of options I picked a nuaire cyfan. There were lots of little reasons why I picked this one, but I have to say, it has been a very impressive extractor. It can be run with either a pull cord, humidistat, or with timer. Fan power is also adjustable.
I got a new one very cheap at the time, around £70, I can't find one cheaper than £150 now.
But, there are lots of cheaper centrifugal fan options, some with humidistats and over-runs, which are often important factors.
A vent-axia solo plus might be a good option. The design is not too obtrusive. There are various options for humidistat and timers.
I often find the timer/overrun versions better as the humidistats can end up being unreliable and the fan runs too much. This is when people over-ride them due to noise and turn them off at the isolator switch)
Anyway, those are my thoughts.
A few things to consider
1) As other's have pointed out, one thing you need is a good airflow into the room. but, it's not just a case of opening a door.
If you have a door open (or any opening) too near the fan, the fan will be just taking air from that door and there will be no air movement across the bathroom.
Ideally you should have a small vent inlet at the opposite end of the room from the extractor. So airflow is pulled across the room. Ideally the inlet should be low down.
It my case I drilled a few holes in the bottom panel of a bathroom door and put a grill on it.
Without any decent inlet into the room, the fan will just stall. It can't move any air.
2) The impeller style axial fans, which are the least aesthetically obtrusive have the least amount of "push". They can cope with very short ducting. Through a cavity wall is just about what they can cope with. But they don't really move a large volume of air with much force.
A much better solution is a centrifugal fan. These are designed to move large volumes of air through ducting and have a lot of "push".
The downside is that you have a bigger box on the wall in most cases, but they are much more effective.
In my case I needed one to extract air through about 2 to 3 metres of ducting.
After looking at a lot of options I picked a nuaire cyfan. There were lots of little reasons why I picked this one, but I have to say, it has been a very impressive extractor. It can be run with either a pull cord, humidistat, or with timer. Fan power is also adjustable.
I got a new one very cheap at the time, around £70, I can't find one cheaper than £150 now.
But, there are lots of cheaper centrifugal fan options, some with humidistats and over-runs, which are often important factors.
A vent-axia solo plus might be a good option. The design is not too obtrusive. There are various options for humidistat and timers.
I often find the timer/overrun versions better as the humidistats can end up being unreliable and the fan runs too much. This is when people over-ride them due to noise and turn them off at the isolator switch)
Anyway, those are my thoughts.
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I’ll check it out. Thanks
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