Bathroom tiling

[Sgt Bilko]

Another tiling question if I could please.

Just done a quick check for taking up the bathroom tiles and it appears the previous incumbent has tiled straight onto the floor boards (inter-locked chipboard - not sure of the name).

They are quite thick - is it likely they will stand up to the punishment of tile removal?

Also, what is WBD?

 

[Richard C]

Just done a quick check for taking up the bathroom tiles and it appears the previous incumbent has tiled straight onto the floor boards (inter-locked chipboard - not sure of the name). They are quite thick - is it likely they will stand up to the punishment of tile removal?

Even if it does survive, if it’s “crap board” forget any notion of re-tiling over it; it’s the worst thing since sliced bread & even worse for tiling over & I wouldn't even contemplate over boarding it. Plan/budget for removing & replacing the floor with 18-25mm WBP if you want it to last.

Also, what is WBD?

That’s probably WBP = Water & Boil Proof; basically the glue used for sticking the plywood together is not water soluble so it won’t dissolve when it gets wet.

Have a good read of the “Tiling Sticky” & relevant archive posts & come back with further questions once you get the gist of what’s involved.

 

[Sgt Bilko]

Thanks for that. I typed it wrong - i meant to ask what WBP was?

Sorry

 

[Gmac69]

Just done a quick check for taking up the bathroom tiles and it appears the previous incumbent has tiled straight onto the floor boards (inter-locked chipboard - not sure of the name). They are quite thick - is it likely they will stand up to the punishment of tile removal?

Even if it does survive, if it’s “crap board” forget any notion of re-tiling over it; it’s the worst thing since sliced bread & even worse for tiling over & I wouldn't even contemplate over boarding it. Plan/budget for removing & replacing the floor with 18-25mm WBP if you want it to last.

Also, what is WBD?

That’s probably WBP = Water & Boil Proof; basically the glue used for sticking the plywood together is not water soluble so it won’t dissolve when it gets wet.

Have a good read of the “Tiling Sticky” & relevant archive posts & come back with further questions once you get the gist of what’s involved.

Listen m8 for one i have tiled on this type off boarding before and had no problems what so ever. but i did screed the boards before tiling . you asked if the boards would tear up ifyou tried lifting tile. the boards would be fine but the problem would be removing the old adhesive can be a slog, some of the boars might get damaged slightly.but i suggest lifting tile clearing old adhesive till is it as good as even surface then cover floor with 6mm ply screwed down with scews counter sunk then sreed ply to seal floor. keep an eye out for hights cause between laying ply ( 6mm some people use thicker ) and the adhesive and the thikness o your tile you will be raising your floor by at least 12mm so it can affect your door closing.

 

[tictic]

lift tiles and any addy replace any damaged boards.
AND DONT USE 6MM PLY...not siutable for ANY tiling....

use 6mm backerboards glued(addy) an screwed

6mm ply ur havin a laugh ere mate????

 

[Sgt Bilko]

lift tiles and any addy replace any damaged boards.
AND DONT USE 6MM PLY...not siutable for ANY tiling....

use 6mm backerboards glued(addy) an screwed

6mm ply ur havin a laugh ere mate????

Thanks for that. What is backerboard? Is it treated/interlocked/wood type??

 

[Richard C]

Forget the 6mm ply, it’s not sufficient; minimum overboard is 12mm & most adhesive manufacturers recommend thicker. A decent backer board can be used but, personally, I still wouldn’t fix it over crapboard, I would replace the lot with 18-25mm WBP, as previously stated.

It rather depends on how long you want your bathroom tiled floor to last; if you plan to redo it a couple of years fine, if you want it to last, take it up & do it properly.

 

[bathstyle]

Bal recommend overboarding with a 15mm ply, I personally believe that if using Porcelain or Ceramic then 12mm ply is fine, but it is better to overboard with a 12mm tile backer board, in particular when dealing with stone tiles.

If re boarding onto joists then board should be covered with ditra unless you use a elastomeric adhesive.

 

[Gobo]

Another tiling question if I could please.

Just done a quick check for taking up the bathroom tiles and it appears the previous incumbent has tiled straight onto the floor boards (inter-locked chipboard - not sure of the name).

They are quite thick - is it likely they will stand up to the punishment of tile removal?

Also, what is WBD?

Just a quick one, the previous tiles that are or were down. Were any of them cracked, loose or was any of the grout cracked or loose?
Being that this was previously tiled and if none of the above occurred the chipboard could be 22-25mm, could of been sealed and was in fact fine in the first place for tiling. Thus if you can remove the old tiles and the old adhesive without damaging it, you could re-seal it and tile directly back onto it or you could removed the tiles lay a screed over the old adhesive and tile on top.

Relaying 25mm as suggested is always the best option in a perfect world, but generally time and your skills/ability are what will dictate how this needs to be done.

Gob's

 

[Sgt Bilko]

Another tiling question if I could please.

Just done a quick check for taking up the bathroom tiles and it appears the previous incumbent has tiled straight onto the floor boards (inter-locked chipboard - not sure of the name).

They are quite thick - is it likely they will stand up to the punishment of tile removal?

Also, what is WBD?

Just a quick one, the previous tiles that are or were down. Were any of them cracked, loose or was any of the grout cracked or loose?
Being that this was previously tiled and if none of the above occurred the chipboard could be 22-25mm, could of been sealed and was in fact fine in the first place for tiling. Thus if you can remove the old tiles and the old adhesive without damaging it, you could re-seal it and tile directly back onto it or you could removed the tiles lay a screed over the old adhesive and tile on top.

Relaying 25mm as suggested is always the best option in a perfect world, but generally time and your skills/ability are what will dictate how this needs to be done.

Gob's

Previous tiling looks sound. No cracks in the grout, no broken tiles either.

Only problem i have is the current boards are huge, 18mm (presume) WBP Chipboard which interlock. They also go under two walls (to bedroom and landing) so they would have to be cut on the joists. The bathroom is only small, with a walking area of just 3m2

 

[Gobo]

If it was me, I'd remove all the old tiles and grout lines leaving behind the old adhesive. Once this is done it should be pretty flat other than the old adhesive.

You now have two options, you could tile directly over this. If you do, as its a small area I'd trowel the adhesive directly onto the tiles before placing and spread it on the floor to make a thin screed filling the gaps in the old adhesive. I'd use Bal rapid-set flexi, but you may be better off using the standard Flexi. The other option is you could first use Bal multi-base which has self leveling properties and could be spread out over the old adhesive giving you a nice solid screed to tile onto.

I hope this helps and all the best with the tiling.

Gob's

 

[Sgt Bilko]

Ta very much for that. Seems a sound way to proceed.

 

[tictic]

sgt bilko

what type an size of tiles are u planning on fixing to bathroom floor??

 

[bathstyle]

There's too much conflicting advise on here, I suggest the OP contacts Bal

 

[Gobo]

Bal will only suggest the easiest possible way for there product to work well, and suggest a professional does it, they wouldn't think about the customers cost etc.