Baxi 105 HE Central Heating issue

Joined
19 Nov 2012
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Derbyshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi.
Hopefully you super people one will be able to help us :)

I apologise for this wall of text, trying to be as descriptive as possible, skip down to bottom for quick version.

We have the Baxi 105 HE, with a wireless Drayton RF1 thermostat, it was installed about 5 or so years I think, not sure as I wasn't here then, and was serviced about a year ago etc etc.

I've helped put in plumbing and boilers in the past, as in put in whole systems years and years ago, so am pretty handy with a spanner, but only so much that I will replace easily sourced parts, and those systems weren't combi, and they had separate CH and HW valves, I get the general jist of things but everything about this combi is new spin on things to me....

Anyways no issues until about a few weeks ago, hot water worked fine and still does but sometimes the CH doesn't come on, I thought it was the wireless thermo batteries, changed them and same thing.
Then thought it was the wireless broadband router I had relocated mixing up the signals, moved it back and put the thermo closer to boiler, same thing happened.

Did a quick search (on here and other places) and people were saying it could be the diverter valve had become stuck, opened boiler up and had a look, push pulled the microswitch wires and generally had a look to see if anything was obviously wrong, cracked or broken wores etc, checked to see if the thermo receiver was working and it does (flashes when I change temp settings up and down, and green light comes on and stays on when flame icon is on the thermo display screen even if the boiler does not fire up) and it worked fine for a week, I figured it was a dodgy connection, but then it went intermittent again.

On a side note, it seems to only stop working if the heating comes on for a few minutes and turns off,like if I test it, and also seems to stay ok for a few days if CH is on for a good bit of time, but that maybe me looking into it too much, or just being hopeful.

Ok, so I started to look into how the diverter valve works, which is to say that they are same as the older ones, but just more compact and with more trickery inside.

When I put a HW tap on and both horizontal and vertical the pushrods work, turn off tap and both go back, smoothly by looks of it.
When I put the CH on no vertical pushrod movement when it doesn't fire up, but when it does fire the vertical pushrod works and flips the microswitch, and mmmm lovely warm heat.

If the CH diverter valve part was/is stuck then surely it would not move when the HW taps are turned on? Or am I mistaken?

Last night I did some testing with the microswitches, when I flip the top one trying to mimic the vertical pushrod moving, no lights happen on the control panel.
When I mimic the vertical pushrod and manually flip that microswitch, the HW icon lights up, boiler fires and we get heat (to the radiators.)

So it seems that both pushrods move, HW horizontal one is always fine, but when the thermo control is telling the vertical one to lift and to send hot water to the rads it sometimes doesn't work, what could cause this?

Wow, again sorry for that, I'm the sort of guy that likes every bit of info. Don't want to fork out for a whole new diverter valve if it isn't that.



Quick version:
Both DV horizontal and vertical pushrods work when on HW
Vertical pushrod only works when CH actually fires up (does not move when thermo says it is working but boiler isn't firing up)
Flipping top microswitch doesn't get any control panel lights working
Flipping front microswitch gets the HW icon to light, fires boiler up and warms the rads
No error icons on the control panel at anytime, even when thermo says the CH is on and it isn't firing.

Seems as if sometimes the CH vertical pushrod is not stuck but just isn't always working or getting the right instruction to lift when the CH comes on.

Cheers for any help, sorry if I have confused, any questions then just ask and I will give you the best info I can.
 
Sponsored Links
I think the CH pushrod will move for central heatin when the pump start up. So sounds as if the pump isn't running.

Have you tried bridging the thermostat out so that the boiler is getting
a CH signal?

My guess would be external control is at fault.
 
I think the CH pushrod will move for central heatin when the pump start up. So sounds as if the pump isn't running.

Have you tried bridging the thermostat out so that the boiler is getting
a CH signal?

My guess would be external control is at fault.

So what I think you are saying is that the thermo control unit tells the boiler it wants water, the pump starts up and this pushes the CH pushrod up, connects with the microswitch and we get heated water to the rads?

I have not tried to bridge the thermo as it seems to be sending signals to the receiver (if I turn it off or down the red light flashes and goes out, if turn on/up the red light flashes and then green one stays on no matter if the boiler fires up or not)
How do I bridge it? there is a black tab on the back, if I pull that out then it says that temp should stay at a constant 16c, is that what you mean? I've never bothered pulling that out, will try that a try though. Would that still work even if it is a faulty thermostat....?
 
Normally there is a wire on the boiler pcb or connector that when the boiler is new connects two pins and boiler is continously in heating mode.
A thermostat is connected across here so it switches off the boiler when the room reaches temperature.

Simply remove the thermostat wire from the boiler and replace with a wire so the boiler is always on.
Chances are your wireless thermostat is at fault. (The devils work) can't beat a wired thermostat.
 
Sponsored Links
I think the CH pushrod will move for central heatin when the pump start up. So sounds as if the pump isn't running.

I would hope the pump proving switch is also working on hot water!

There may be a filter fitted to the CH return valve which may be blocked!

A filter may also be wrongly fitted to the CH flow!

Tony
 
Normally there is a wire on the boiler pcb or connector that when the boiler is new connects two pins and boiler is continously in heating mode.
A thermostat is connected across here so it switches off the boiler when the room reaches temperature.

Simply remove the thermostat wire from the boiler and replace with a wire so the boiler is always on.
Chances are your wireless thermostat is at fault. (The devils work) can't beat a wired thermostat.

Ok I get you, unfortunately the boiler is in my littlests' room, in a spare cupboard (I have no idea why) so I can't check on that just yet, but I will tomorrow.


I think the CH pushrod will move for central heatin when the pump start up. So sounds as if the pump isn't running.

I would hope the pump proving switch is also working on hot water!

There may be a filter fitted to the CH return valve which may be blocked!

A filter may also be wrongly fitted to the CH flow!

Tony
Are there internal filters in the DV? And would a wrongly fitted filter take over 5 years to make it work intermittently?

The water pump definitely works, it pumps water to rads if I flip the front HW microswitch. I have not had a look to see if the pump works if I flip the top microswitch, I will tomorrow

It is as if the CH signal just get understood from thermostat receiver to the boiler(even though everything lights up as if it was working)
Thanks.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top