baxi solo 3 circuit diagram

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by underwurlde, 1 Jan 2010.

  1. underwurlde

    Joined:
    16 May 2007
    Messages:
    110
    Thanks Received:
    27
    Location:
    Bournemouth
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    [UPDATED POST]

    OK, since the first post of my schemtic I have updated this (original) post becasue the original image was too crap to be read properly. I have therefore improved this image and also added the other two PCBs that I came across and rev-eng'd.

    As you can see there are 3 different control boards of ever increasing complexitiy. I guess they've improved the design with the passage of time. I have therefore called them MKI, MKII & MKIII. This is just a naming convention that I alone have given them.

    Please note that although I have strived for accuracy please do NOT assume anything is indeed correct! I just hope someone can make use of it.

    These control PCBs are from a replacement kit #231711, the PCB number is 230260 and can be used to control Baxi Solo 2 PF / 3 PF / 3 PF Systems.

    Cheers,

    Andy

    -------------

    MKI
    Schematic
    [​IMG]
    -------------

    MKII
    Schematic
    [​IMG]
    PCB Board (Front and back).

    -------------

    MKIII
    Schematic
    [​IMG]
    PCB Board (Front and back. Note Tracking view has been mirror imaged).

    PS.
    What a pain in the arse that was to do. For some reason the images uploaded to DIYNot are compressed (?) and as a result degraded. Hence the addition of the PhotoBucket links to better qualitiy images.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 4
  2. olly_k

    Joined:
    14 May 2005
    Messages:
    264
    Thanks Received:
    6
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Wow I would seriously love to be trained up by someone like you mate. I know the last 'installer' I worked for (domestic boilers although I wasn't part of that side) would have turned their nose up at such an effort
    :cry:

    Great work and hope someone appreciates it!
     
  3. Fastnet

    Joined:
    8 May 2010
    Messages:
    2
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Location:
    Leicestershire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hi Andy,

    What a fantastic job of reverse engineering you have done!

    I'm an electronics design engineer of some 25 years and I sure know just how much effort it is to do what you have done!!

    The only problem I have is that the resolution of the image you posted is a bit low and I could do a higher resolution version, so as to make the detail out better.

    I wondered if you could post it on this forum or e-mail to me please (web.stuff@dsl.pipex.com), as this will be a god send for me as I fix the unit I have.

    Many thanks in anticipation

    Regards

    Steve>>>
     
  4. mikely

    Joined:
    11 Feb 2005
    Messages:
    305
    Thanks Received:
    72
    Location:
    Lancashire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    If you have uploaded a .jpg file, I suggest you upload it as a .png or .gif file which is much better for line drawings.
     
  5. Andygasman2010

    Joined:
    3 Mar 2010
    Messages:
    2,179
    Thanks Received:
    202
    Location:
    Middlesbrough
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Impressive! I can barely make it out though....
     
  6. DP

    DP

    Joined:
    10 Dec 2003
    Messages:
    6,953
    Thanks Received:
    877
    Location:
    Glasgow
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Now this is what I call talent. You get the cake and cherry on top as well.
     
  7. ChrisR

    Joined:
    24 Jul 2003
    Messages:
    23,582
    Thanks Received:
    1,142
    Location:
    London
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Patience is what I'd call it!

    I've been photoshopping and come up with this which is a little more legible. It would be nice if Underwurlde could repost a clearer version, though :)
     
  8. Fastnet

    Joined:
    8 May 2010
    Messages:
    2
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Location:
    Leicestershire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Sorry for the delay in replying, just wanted to say thanks to ChrisR for the time spent on the enhancement.

    A few more of the values are now visible and I can now have a bash at a testing the board.

    I do agree with ChrisR that an original from Underwurlde would be the best option, so if you read this could you post it please....:)

    Thanks Again......!!!
     
  9. underwurlde

    Joined:
    16 May 2007
    Messages:
    110
    Thanks Received:
    27
    Location:
    Bournemouth
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Sorry, sorry & thrice sorry folks!

    I did not realize how crappy that image was! Secondly, due to being booted out of house and home by the (ex) wife, I have not been able to relaibly access the internet & hence emails etc. so was not aware of the problem!

    Now that I am somewhat getting back on my feet I should be able to repost this image at a better quality. I have also rev-eng'd another version of this controller and I will post it up too (IF I can find it).

    ---------

    It would amuse you all to know that I wanted to reverse engineer the PCB so I could work out what was going on and then hopefully fix a problem I had with my boiler. Turned out that there was NOTHING actually wrong with the PCB itself! :eek:

    Turned out that the spark electrode was not positioned correctly and would not ignite the gas (which then started leaking - put that down to bad design of the electronics on the control PCB ) :eek: All I had to do to fix the problem was bend the electrode into a better position!

    Apologies once again for not spotting your requests,

    Andy :mrgreen:
     
  10. markfxy

    Joined:
    30 Jun 2008
    Messages:
    63
    Thanks Received:
    2
    Location:
    Sussex
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    No wonder she booted you out should'va paid her a bit more attention :rolleyes:
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  11. underwurlde

    Joined:
    16 May 2007
    Messages:
    110
    Thanks Received:
    27
    Location:
    Bournemouth
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    LOL. She was the one who nagged & nagged me to fix the poxy thing.

    Anyway, original post now updated to to include the other 2 PCBs I came across and use of better quality images (Thank you PhotoBucket!).

    Enjoy. ;)

    Andy
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  12. ChrisR

    Joined:
    24 Jul 2003
    Messages:
    23,582
    Thanks Received:
    1,142
    Location:
    London
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Cool. :D
    As a matter of interest, what s/w did you use to draw the circuits out? There's a couple I mean to do sometime.
     
  13. onlyfitidealboilers

    Joined:
    11 Jan 2010
    Messages:
    2,022
    Thanks Received:
    151
    Location:
    Aberdeen
    Country:
    United Kingdom
  14. underwurlde

    Joined:
    16 May 2007
    Messages:
    110
    Thanks Received:
    27
    Location:
    Bournemouth
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    @ChrisR, I used the schematic capture capabilites of Protel 99SE (which has now transformed into Altium).

    Just out of interest, the way I go about reverse engineering a PCB is thus:
    First off I take a high quality well lit digital photograph of the PCB and then use PaintShop to mirror image it. I then import this image into protel.
    Once imported I then place junctions on all solderable connections / vias and then place resistors / capacitors / diodes / ICs (which I 'expand' if necessary) etc to link up to these junctions & vias. Then I trace wires over the PCB tracking.
    [​IMG]

    Once that is done I can delete the imported image of the PCB to end up with a rats nest of connections to all components which I then find far easier to constuct a circuit diagram from once the supply rails have been identified (and associated tracking deleted)
    [​IMG]

    Andy
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  15. chuzzlewit

    Joined:
    12 Mar 2009
    Messages:
    10
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    You are an absolute star, sir! Have had a Solo 2 for 12 years and have been searching (unsuccessfully) for a circuit diagram every time it went wrong (4th time now). Although I haven't fixed it this time, it has confirmed that R123 is 1K (the coloured bands are so cooked they have almost lost all their colour), so I will have to exchange the board - again.

    I really hesitate to say this after all the time you've obviously spent on them, but if you wanted to make them even more useful, adding the component identifiers to the "Mk II" and "Mk III" diagrams (like you have in the Mk I) would make them truly complete.

    I was interested to see that your board is also "toasted" around R123 (near the fuse) - obviously this one runs hot.

    Regards, Martin
     

Share This Page