Blocked plastic flexible pipework

[grimbo66]

hi all first time post for me.

system is approx 6 years old and open with a F&E tank.

I am having trouble with 2 rads which I have removed and flushed out - lots of sludge came out, rads seem clear now. System uses 10mm flexi plastic pipes and the flow on the feed pipes to each of these rads is very weak (proved by fitting a hose to valves and draining the system down), almost a dribble (the returns are ok - lots of pressure). Have put in DS40 to try to clear the pipes but suspect that the flow rate is too low to be effective on the feed pipes in question. However the system is clunking and popping and requires bleeding regularly so I think it is being cleared elsewhere.

Have shut down all working rads to force water thro blocked units still no change, only fitted DS40 2 days ago so may need more time to be effective? I have previously run the system with the feeds onto a hosepipe to give it a clear run thro - no change still a dribble.

Thinking of leaving the DS40 in for a week or so and then powerflushing, thought about a mains flush but it seems a bit complicated for DIYer.

If I powerflush from the blocked rads positions is this likely to clear the blockage or am I likely to cause damage or am I wasting my time and should go for new sections of pipe.

thanks for any advice given.

 

[Agile]

You will probably need to apply mains pressure water to the blocked pipe.

If there is any flow at all DS 40 will work in 2-3 hours. Not so good to leave it in more than 24 hrs.

You need to identify the underlying fault that has caused all the sludge.

Tony

 

[grimbo66]

Thanks Tony.

I will get the DS40 out as soon as I can then.

If I do a mains flush would the insertible nylon test plugs be ok for sealing the pipe to the rads?

Could the underlying fault be that my inhibiter has become diluted over time. I ask this because as I have been trawling this forum I spotted all the stuff about the height of the ballcock in the F&E tank. My tank is well full with the b/c arm being straight and I wondered if the system could be continuously discharge/filling and therfeore diluting the mix with new water. I haven't put any Fernox in until recently which in hindsight has probably been a mistake.

The blocked pipes are onto downstairs rads and come through the wall. I suspect that they have a loop/horizontal section at the bottom of the cavity and the sludge has settled here.

thanks for the advice
Ian

 

[cozzmic]

If its non barrier pipe that could be the problem. If it is rip the plastic out and change it to copper. As Tony says it could be something else but the plastic is a big 1st check. I don't use the stuff for CH unless I get an AI (architect instuction) for it.

 

[kevplumb]

stopped chasing the short legged haggis and gone back to work d

 

[wilhelm]

f.f.s. ......... i just ran what you said through a hacker program. ..

reckons youve lost "la plot......."

 

[kevplumb]

dream on bonny lad i was talking to the fella at interbuild

 

[wilhelm]

whatever. ...just send us two ounces.

 

[kevplumb]

what of HAGGIS

 

[wilhelm]

..................

................

 

[kevplumb]

dingbat

now behave

 

[ChrisR]

If I do a mains flush would the insertible nylon test plugs be ok for sealing the pipe to the rads?

No, they won't hold mains pressure reliably. Rad valves might, cap em if they leak.

Try removing ghe rad valves (block can be right behind them) and shoving a thin (6mm) drain spring up if it'll go. If not try Bowden (bike brake) cable.

 

[grimbo66]

blockage has been cleared.

I hired a Kamco power flusher and used this to clear the blocked feed, eventually it cleared but it was slow job.

thanks for the advice.