The fault has just started, when the roomstat and programmer are calling, the boiler sits there asleep. When I turn the power off to the wiring centre, one of the two port valves starts whirring (the spring pulling back the valve I assume). When I turn the power back on, the boiler magically wakes up and gets going...................what's wrong lads?
Boiler won't fire up
- Thread starter DIYedboy
- Start date
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sounds like the valves getting stiff and abit lazy.
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it don't quite make the micro switch.
when the valve opens fully it hits the m/s then powers boiler/pump
more like the spindle getting sticky inside the brass valve.
you can try taking the actator off and give the spindle a spray and try free it up first.
or opt for a new valve. freeing them don't always last as the seals dry out etc.
or opt for a new valve. freeing them don't always last as the seals dry out etc.
Don't be so quick DIY.
The "Valve" consists of an electrical actuator and a mechanical valve.
Isolate the electrical mains and remove the electrical actuator. Note the position of the valve stem. Using a pair of pliers check that the valve is free by turning the stem GENTLY. it does not move very far. If it turns OK then the valve is OK. Turn the stem back to where you found it.
Next put the electrical power on and get someone to switch the heating on. The valve motor will slowly move and you should hear the micro switch click.
These actuators can be moved manually by a lever on the side but you haven't told us the make so we can't say exactly where.
If the fault is in the actuator it could be stiff and need lubricating, as seco said, or it could be a micro switch intermittant. It is unlikely to be the motor as they usually fail inoperative and yours is working. The micro-switches are available but if you don't feel comfortable with fixing the actuator then buy a new actuator NOT a complete new valve.
(You haven't told us what make of boiler, or control gear or valve you have. Also we sort of have to deduce that the fault is with the heating valve as opposed to the hot water one. This is what Kevin is alluding to. To get a good answer we need information.)
The "Valve" consists of an electrical actuator and a mechanical valve.
Isolate the electrical mains and remove the electrical actuator. Note the position of the valve stem. Using a pair of pliers check that the valve is free by turning the stem GENTLY. it does not move very far. If it turns OK then the valve is OK. Turn the stem back to where you found it.
Next put the electrical power on and get someone to switch the heating on. The valve motor will slowly move and you should hear the micro switch click.
These actuators can be moved manually by a lever on the side but you haven't told us the make so we can't say exactly where.
If the fault is in the actuator it could be stiff and need lubricating, as seco said, or it could be a micro switch intermittant. It is unlikely to be the motor as they usually fail inoperative and yours is working. The micro-switches are available but if you don't feel comfortable with fixing the actuator then buy a new actuator NOT a complete new valve.
(You haven't told us what make of boiler, or control gear or valve you have. Also we sort of have to deduce that the fault is with the heating valve as opposed to the hot water one. This is what Kevin is alluding to. To get a good answer we need information.)
Methinks your barking up the wrong tree oileck person.What Seco has advised in my opinion......... is the correct diagnoses.
Your way,and theyll still be avin problems at Chrimbo.
Your way,and theyll still be avin problems at Chrimbo.
Thanks slapper but I have tried to break the fault down into a) the valve or b) the actuator, with the first thing to look at in the actuator being....
"If the fault is in the actuator it could be stiff and need lubricating, as seco said,"
This is the way that I fault diagnose zone valve actuator faults and am rarely longer than an hour on site.
"If the fault is in the actuator it could be stiff and need lubricating, as seco said,"
This is the way that I fault diagnose zone valve actuator faults and am rarely longer than an hour on site.
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