Bosch Exxcel Wvd2452Bgb /04 Stuck On 1 Minute & Not Draining

[Rollcage]

Hi,



I have Bosch Exxcel washer dryer model number WVD2452BGB /04. It is just coming up to 6 years old and this morning it decided to stop working.

I normally run the machine's cotton eco programme which takes around 1hr and 30 minutes. However when I went to check on it, I noticed that the drum was still full of water and foam despite the timer displaying 1 minute remaining. The cycle continued to overrun by 20 minutes until I manually stopped it by turning the dial to off. From what I observed, the drum was at turning at same slow speed and at no point did the pump kick in to drain the water.

I then tried the rinse programme and was met with complete silence - no pump kicking in and no drum turning - the timer was just running through the programme.

So I tried the drain programme which lasts a minute and again nothing. Tried the spin programme - same result. I decided to give the cotton eco programme another shot and the machine sprung to life but there was no water rushing in (as there usually is during the start of this programme). Instead the drum just continued turning on the same slow speed. I let the programme run its course and at no point did the pump kick in to drain the water. The drum just kept turning at the same speed. No final spin, no rush of fresh water. Just the same motion all the way through. I manually stopped it again.


The pump filter hasn't been cleaned since I've owned the machine. I've tried to remove it in recent years and it simply will not budge. I tried to use a pair of pliers to turn it and almost ended up cracking the cap. So I just left it alone. I did get some problems with draining last year when using the dryer - the machine would stop randomly during the dry cycle with an F:18 error. I overcame it by running the spin cycle several times.

I think my luck has finally run out and the pump has finally given up. Although I did some googling today and found that the fact it gets stuck on 1 minute remaining could suggest a problem with the heating element. Although when I touched the glass on the door it was warm (this was during the 60 degrees cotton eco programme).

Any ideas on what the most likely fault could be based on the symptoms described? Will I need a new machine or is it a easy straight forward fix? And if so what's the best (and cheapest) way to go about it - contact the official Bosch repair service or get a local plumber to take a look? What am I looking at in terms of minimum cost?

Edit: I removed some of the water in the drum to get model number. After leaving it alone for 2 hours, I decided to give the machine another go in the evening. I selected the 15 minute rinse programme and the machine started working - the drain pump came on and the cycle completed. I then ran the 8 minute spin programme 3 times - they all completed successfully and I heard the pump working.

I then selected the 1hr 40 minute intensive drying programme and it has just finished without any problems. Most of the clothes were almost touch dry and there was no water in the drum.

All of this suggests that the drain pump is "alive". So maybe the pump/drain hoses just need a good clean out? I'm a bit worried about the wash cycle getting stuck on one minute remaining - could that also be down to a pump blockage? If the heating element was faulty then surely the dryer wouldn't work.




Any further suggestions and thoughts welcome.



Thank you.

 

[Mikefromlondon]

Cleaning all hoses around the pump would be a good start, and also check a thin tube leading up to a diaphragm switch mounted at the top of the machine, making sure that the end of the tube is clear of any blockage with thick soap residue and other gungy stuff that clings around these narrow tube and stops its pressure sensor from working normally. when this happens machine may overfill or sometimes if there is a slow leak, the drain cycle may not work properly as the machine assumes water has all been drained.

Also may be worth removing the control board and pulling out all connectors and refitting them back as this action can wipe clean the tarnished contacts. and can resolve some bad connections between PCB and connectors, irs abd

 

[Rollcage]

Cleaning all hoses around the pump would be a good start, and also check a thin tube leading up to a diaphragm switch mounted at the top of the machine, making sure that the end of the tube is clear of any blockage with thick soap residue and other gungy stuff that clings around these narrow tube and stops its pressure sensor from working normally. when this happens machine may overfill or sometimes if there is a slow leak, the drain cycle may not work properly as the machine assumes water has all been drained.

Also may be worth removing the control board and pulling out all connectors and refitting them back as this action can wipe clean the tarnished contacts. and can resolve some bad connections between PCB and connectors, irs abd

Thanks for the input. I suspect (and hope) it just needs a good clean out - it han't been cleaned for almost 6 years and the pump filter is stuck.

 

[Mikefromlondon]

you can tip the machine over to one of its sides gently, supporting the top end on a stand of some kind, like a milk crate or something, or even a chair, but careful as chair could slide away, and undo hoses from the bottom and remove flexible hoses and clean thoroughly including pump housing etc, the front cover can be stubborn, but if you can dislodge it some how by giving it a sharp tap with some blunt object, spread the force instead of applying a force on a concentrated limited area. And don't forget that pressure sensor tube, that alone is critical, I have seen washing machines flood kitchens when these are blocked and also some won't drain when they have a leaky joint nozzle. These are normally pushed on, you only need to clean the pend that goes into your pump housing.

As for circuit board, pull one connector at a time and push it back, that way you won't have to figure out which one goes where, though they are polarised and colour coded.

 

[Rollcage]

you can tip the machine over to one of its sides gently, supporting the top end on a stand of some kind, like a milk crate or something, or even a chair, but careful as chair could slide away, and undo hoses from the bottom and remove flexible hoses and clean thoroughly including pump housing etc, the front cover can be stubborn, but if you can dislodge it some how by giving it a sharp tap with some blunt object, spread the force instead of applying a force on a concentrated limited area. And don't forget that pressure sensor tube, that alone is critical, I have seen washing machines flood kitchens when these are blocked and also some won't drain when they have a leaky joint nozzle. These are normally pushed on, you only need to clean the pend that goes into your pump housing.

As for circuit board, pull one connector at a time and push it back, that way you won't have to figure out which one goes where, though they are polarised and colour coded.

Hi,


Thank you for your reply. Well I got an enginneer in today as I'm unable to look at it myself and he tested the machine on the 30 degrees quick wash programme and the drain programme. The pump worked on both cycles and both cycles completed successfully . He tried to remove the pump filter but it just wouldn't move. He told me he'd have to order a new pump unit if I wanted it removed because they don't sell the pump housing separately for this particular model.

He established that the pump was working though.

I asked about the pump not kicking in during the 60 degree cotton eco programme and about the cycle getting stuck on 1 minute remaining and he said it was probably a one off and whatever the problem was the machine seems to have resolved it because the pump is now working.

After he left I ran the machine on the 30 degree quick wash cycle again with nothing in the drum and it completed successfully - the pump was working during the cycle.


So fast forward to this evening and I've loaded the machine up with some clothes and selected my usual 60 degrees cotton eco programme and more than half an hour in the pump hasn't kicked in even once. This is very is unusual as the machine normally would have at least drained once by now. The drum is also spinning at the same speed. It feels like the machine hasn't moved on from the beginning of the programme (despite the counter ticking away).

I stopped the programme manually and selected the drain programme and the pump started working.

It's quite obvious that the pump doesn't work whenever a 60 degree wash programme is selected. I've just tried the regular cotton programme (also 60 degrees) and I'm getting the same problem - no sign of the pump starting.

I touched the glass window and it was warm during the cotton eco cycle. Could it be a problem with the heating element? Maybe it's not heating up to the required temperature to advance further into the wash cycle?

The pump seems to work when I select the drain, rinse or 30 degree quick wash programmes.


Perhaps it's a software problem? Should I contact the engineer again? Is it an easy fix?



Any advice appreciated Thank you.

 

[Rollcage]

you can tip the machine over to one of its sides gently, supporting the top end on a stand of some kind, like a milk crate or something, or even a chair, but careful as chair could slide away, and undo hoses from the bottom and remove flexible hoses and clean thoroughly including pump housing etc, the front cover can be stubborn, but if you can dislodge it some how by giving it a sharp tap with some blunt object, spread the force instead of applying a force on a concentrated limited area. And don't forget that pressure sensor tube, that alone is critical, I have seen washing machines flood kitchens when these are blocked and also some won't drain when they have a leaky joint nozzle. These are normally pushed on, you only need to clean the pend that goes into your pump housing.

As for circuit board, pull one connector at a time and push it back, that way you won't have to figure out which one goes where, though they are polarised and colour coded.

Hi,


Thank you for your reply. Well I got an enginneer in today as I'm unable to look at it myself and he tested the machine on the 30 degrees quick wash programme and the drain programme. The pump worked on both cycles and both cycles completed successfully . He tried to remove the pump filter but it just wouldn't move. He told me he'd have to order a new pump unit if I wanted it removed because they don't sell the pump housing separately for this particular model.

He established that the pump was working though.

I asked about the pump not kicking in during the 60 degree cotton eco programme and about the cycle getting stuck on 1 minute remaining and he said it was probably a one off and whatever the problem was the machine seems to have resolved it because the pump is now working.

After he left I ran the machine on the 30 degree quick wash cycle again with nothing in the drum and it completed successfully - the pump was working during the cycle.


So fast forward to this evening and I've loaded the machine up with some clothes and selected my usual 60 degrees cotton eco programme and more than half an hour in the pump hasn't kicked in even once. This is very is unusual as the machine normally would have at least drained once by now. The drum is also spinning at the same speed. It feels like the machine hasn't moved on from the beginning of the programme (despite the counter ticking away).

I stopped the programme manually and selected the drain programme and the pump started working.

It's quite obvious that the pump doesn't work whenever a 60 degree wash programme is selected. I've just tried the regular cotton programme (also 60 degrees) and I'm getting the same problem - no sign of the pump starting.

I touched the glass window and it was warm during the cotton eco cycle. Could it be a problem with the heating element? Maybe it's not heating up to the required temperature to advance further into the wash cycle?

The pump seems to work when I select the drain, rinse or 30 degree quick wash programmes.


Perhaps it's a software problem - any way I could "reset" the machine? Should I contact the engineer again? Is it an easy fix?



Any advice appreciated Thank you.

 

[Mikefromlondon]

I read it all, and from the symptoms it seems that when you are on a 60 deg wash cycle, that is when the machine does not progress further and remains locked in that mode, you feel the glass door feels warm, how warm you don't know what the inside temperature is, so unless you are able to take the rear cover off, and switch power to the machine off, then with a multimeter check the heater element resistance, it may have gone high resistance, whereby it is still managing to heat water little but not quite reaching 60 degrees.

(from a real experience water heating elements can corrode and break up inside a tank/washing machine/ immersion heater and still manage to heat water partially by electric currents passing directly through the water and thereby heating it lukewarm and not hot at all. I remember in a house that used an immersion heater, the element had corroded and broke, heating water just luke warm, the owner asked me to look at why he was not getting hot water, I checked the resistance, it was open circuit but it still managed to heat water just lukewarm, by the effect of electric currents passing through the water itself and causing it to heat partially. Also thanks to earthing which otherwise could be fatal as earthed tank also ensured that no one got any electric shock as any electric currents would pass into earthed tank and keep the voltage potential safe, if he had an RCD device fitted at the consumer Unit, it would have tripped, but his electrics were old and no RCD was fitted to it)

anyway, so the element can be the cause.
1. The water is not heating up to 60 degrees to trip a 60 degree temp. sensor to proceed to the next cycle, Element suspected, so check its resistance if you can.

2. I was also thinking can it be your temperature sensor gone wrong, but it is unlikely, as otherwise the water would continue to heat more than 60 degrees or not heat at all. ( the logic board must decide via a temperature sensor, if the water temperature is below 60 C so it would switch the current to the element to heat water, and then when the water temperature reaches 60 c it would then stop or maintain it at that level continue with the wash cycle at that temperature (60C) for however long the wash cycle is intended, before going into next cycle of rinsing and and then final draining and spin cycles.) So for now I rule this out.