built in oven

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already have a hob which was wired up under hob and directly behind cooker, got new oven, it is longer than old one, so when pushed oven back hob box got in way, have had to take of the box and move to behind the little cupboard next to my cooker so can push cooker back.
new cooker comes with wire and has to be plugged into 13amp plug which is joined onto my cooker switch with the red switch, but wire is abit short so have had to run the wire up behing my cooker, am worried with the heat of the cooker that the wire will melt, how to i stop this happening.
 
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The cable supplied with the new oven (already fitted) will not have a problem with the heat.
 
The cable supplied with the new oven (already fitted) will not have a problem with the heat.

Is that a bit assumptious ?

What does the manufactures instruction say ? Did a cable come with the oven ?

The plug on a cooker socket tends to be considered as 5 amp for a diversity calc- but you are now using it for a fixed appliance :eek:

Is the hob gas, old electric or ceramic ?

Could you confirm the fuse rating of the cooker point and socket, the watt or Kw load / ratings for both the hob and oven.

Need to check your ok and won't jump over the circuits design load.
 
There are many different cables and hobs. With my hob I can put £5 note between hob and pan and boil water in pan without damaging the £5 note.
Cable comes with different temperature ranges typical twin and earth is designed to run at 70 deg C but there is a version designed to run at 90 deg C. Mineral insulated cable can run at silly temperatures likely will only damage the outer plastic covering even at 400 deg C.

The hob normally has instructions as to proximity to oven and some are not designed to be mounted above an oven. If you want hob above an oven safe way is to use a stand alone unit then you know it's OK. Electric oven with gas hob is common I know but can't see a gas hob having a overheat problem! After all they waist that much heat anyway turning whole kitchen into a sauna that they should be able to work with a little heat from other items.

Statements like it is fitted with heat proof cable don't make sense as all cable even mineral insulted (Pyro) has a upper limit. For flexible around 110 deg C for fibreglass insulated is about upper limit then you move to ceramic beads. Thermally insulating cable does not help as the cable will then overheat due to current it carries.

Ovens have thermal insulation and in some cases fans to ensure the outside remains cool but it varies so much only safe way is to get same make of oven and hob.

I think the right course would be to renew the cable for a longer one and run clear of heat.

Likely the cable supplied will be heat resistance however that's not heat proof and in general one should not route anywhere over around 60 deg C.

Removing and repositioning parts of the hob could also be dangerous. Depending on type the magnet waves could stop a pacemaker working so to alter without manufacturers permission is as best foolhardy and at worse could get a manslaughter charge.

There has long been a saying "Fools rush in where angles fear to tread"
 
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cooker is electric, i had electrian put socket on as we moved cooker from other side of kitchen, then couple months later had new oven and hob fitted so had another electrian fit, his the one that put the oven into the plug socket that is next to the red switch, i got certificate for this. so now hv new oven again so am fittin it same as other cooker, only moved the box from hob that have the wires from the socket and hob goin into it, this is now behind the cupboard, there is about 20 inches of cooker cable runnin behind the cooker do u think this is all ok
 
The back of a standard electric oven does not get hot enough to melt standard cable. It barely gets warmed by the oven cavity. The same goes for the hob.
 
Chri5 Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2010 5:22 pm Post Subject:

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Diyisfun wrote:
The cable supplied with the new oven (already fitted) will not have a problem with the heat.


Is that a bit assumptious ?

What does the manufactures instruction say ? Did a cable come with the oven ?

The plug on a cooker socket tends to be considered as 5 amp for a diversity calc- but you are now using it for a fixed appliance

Is the hob gas, old electric or ceramic ?

Could you confirm the fuse rating of the cooker point and socket, the watt or Kw load / ratings for both the hob and oven.

Need to check your ok and won't jump over the circuits design load.
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It will have been manufactured to ensure that any cable, will not be damaged if trapped against the appliance, by heat
 
There are many different cables and hobs. With my hob I can put £5 note between hob and pan and boil water in pan without damaging the £5 note.

How much did it cost to find one like that - sounds like you have money to burn? :D
 

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