Bye Bye Isar

Joined
29 Oct 2008
Messages
8
Reaction score
0
Location
Leicestershire
Country
United Kingdom
We have, much to our regret, an Isar m30100. It has gone through the usual problems of sticking diverter valve and condensate trap bunging up but it hasn't been too expensive.

Until this afternoon.

It made a chugging noise, then a hammering noise. Then a slight spraying noise.

This was followed by a loud flash and bang as presumably the electronics got wet.

I'm assuming that it'll be a write off and wit a combination of warm-front, raiding the piggy bank and making an insurance claim we'll be looking at a new boiler in the next couple of days.

I've had to isolate the water supply to the thing since whatever knocked the pressure up in there blew loads of seals and it is dripping; along with making sure there's no power going anywhere near it.

I can see a completely blown electrical filter in there at a minimum, the PCB casing is dripping etc...

Now the replacement will ideally not be an Ideal but something that has hugely better reputation.

Any suggestions?

To make it even easier to get the new one in place it would be nice if the various service pipes were in a similar order.

Left to right as you face it they are:

CH out, HW out, Gas, Water in, CH in.

Is that fairly standard?
 
Sponsored Links
your heat ex has gone,good luck to you in whatever boiler you get
 
To make it even easier to get the new one in place it would be nice if the various service pipes were in a similar order.

Left to right as you face it they are:

CH out, HW out, Gas, Water in, CH in.

Is that fairly standard?

It's that long since I fitted an Eyesore I can't visualise the order, are you sure about the CH flow & return?
I know it's late on a Sunday night & lager may have been consumed but if I remember right the standard order of pipes is, flow dhw gas cold main return?
 
Sponsored Links
To make it even easier to get the new one in place it would be nice if the various service pipes were in a similar order.

Left to right as you face it they are:

CH out, HW out, Gas, Water in, CH in.

Is that fairly standard?

It's that long since I fitted an Eyesore I can't visualise the order, are you sure about the CH flow & return?
I remember right the standard order of pipes is, flow dhw gas cold main return?

Isn't that what I said? I'm not fitting the replacement anyway once we've worked through the options so it isn't hugely important.

I thought Flow=out and return=in at least thats how it looks on the installation manual that I have beside me. ;)
 
To make it even easier to get the new one in place it would be nice if the various service pipes were in a similar order.

Left to right as you face it they are:

CH out, HW out, Gas, Water in, CH in.

Is that fairly standard?

It's that long since I fitted an Eyesore I can't visualise the order, are you sure about the CH flow & return?
I remember right the standard order of pipes is, flow dhw gas cold main return?

Isn't that what I said? I'm not fitting the replacement anyway once we've worked through the options so it isn't hugely important.

I thought Flow=out and return=in at least thats how it looks on the installation manual that I have beside me. ;)


I did say lager had been consumed. :oops:
 
If physical size is important, then I find the Broag good as a cost effective replacement for an Isar with reasonable quality.

If you want better quality and engineering and can fit in a slightly wider boiler, look at the Vaillant Ecotec Plus 831.

I have been replacing quite a few Ideal M series and Isar HE series of late, many only about 4 years old and now several Mini's that are around 7 years old.

Customers have really had enough of Ideal boilers generally, without any prompting from me :eek:

Got an ATAG replacing a Mini S24 tomorrow ;)
 
If physical size is important, then I find the Broag good as a cost effective replacement for an Isar with reasonable quality.

If you want better quality and engineering and can fit in a slightly wider boiler, look at the Vaillant Ecotec Plus 831.


Either would fit. It looks like the Broag will get me a higer spec for the same cash.

I'll start reading up. Thanks for the recommendations. Especially since I'd never heard of Remeha at all.
 
Could be expansion vessel ruptured too. I fitted an external exp vess on a 4y/o Isar that had split the vessel. Had to reseal the diverter manifold, replaced pcb and auto air vent too
 
Could be expansion vessel ruptured too. I fitted an external exp vess on a 4y/o Isar that had split the vessel. Had to reseal the diverter manifold, replaced pcb and auto air vent too

Would that blow all the seals? Either way all the electrics and electronics need replacing, the thing will need stripping down by a qualified person and then rebuilding with whatever has blown on the water side and incidental damage.

I get the feeling that it'd be not a lot more expensive in the short term and cheaper in the long term to get something reliable fitted.
 
You are obviously illiterate BB. You don't seem to understand that Vaillant are better.

Until you have fitted both, you are in no position to offer comment :rolleyes:

But as you are unqualified yo will never be able to give proper advice.

Perhaps you should stick to moneysavingexpert.com, Waterways:cool:

Yet another forum where you are the laughing stock and the butt of all jokes :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
Aren't all the above arguments irrelevant to a degree anyway? The OP stated that warm front would be putting towards the project, would they not then decide what is installed if they are going to be the main contributer through their scheme? (not up on the warm front projects nowadays so forgive me if i'm wrong)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top