Can I Avoid Draining My System?

[Gerry555]

Hello. I'm wondering if it's possible to replace the diverter valve in my heating system without having to drain it? If I just close the valve at the base of the pump directly above the diverter (see pic below), is that going to be enough to prevent water flooding all over the place, or is draining the system unavoidable?

Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Gerry

 

[Fluffster]

Close off the valve above and also the gate valve.
Pop up to your expansion tank and turn off the supply
I can just see a drain cock below your motorised valve attach a garden hose to that and drain off what is left in the pipework.
As it all appears to be easily accessable go for it.

Pete
ps like the celotape around the junction box

 

[Paul Barker]

In reality a pro would expect the drain off to be stuck and need jumper pulling out, pump gate valve to break, no movement under flor so the compression fitting adjacent on gate valve would need releasing to allow removal of zone valve.

As I have bungs I would bung the cold feed and open vent, shut an auto air vents, drain until water stopps flowing. Shut drain.

Surround floor with toweling, undo the nuts bang the new one on quick and reverse the above.

If it were on a ground floor aslong is it was like for like I'd probably do it live.

 

[Gerry555]

ps like the celotape around the junction box

I live in a house that was converted to flats sometime in the 70s. The level of 'workmanship' is pretty abysmal and we've had nothing but problems over the years: non conventional fittings used for a lot of plumbing, one of the radiators had accidentally been connected to the hot water tap...the list goes on!

Anyway, thanks for your reply, I'll order the diverter and go for it.

 

[Softus]

If it were on a ground floor aslong is it was like for like I'd probably do it live.

Do you mean without bungs AND without isolating, Paul?

 

[nickso]

If it were on a ground floor aslong is it was like for like I'd probably do it live.

Do you mean without bungs AND without isolating, Paul?

dont see the point of making a mess if it can be bunged. if it cant be bunged then fair enough. id rather snatch it than drain it.

 

[Softus]

dont see the point of making a mess if it can be bunged. if it cant be bunged then fair enough. id rather snatch it than drain it.

Well I agree. There's nothing like the adrenalin rush from a good snatch - keeps you feeling alive.

 

[namsag]

And if it`s water that has been in pressurised system it smells like snatch.

 

[Gerry555]

Although I was intending to fit a new diverter valve tomorrow I just thought I'd see if the gate valve was ok prior to doing the job as there was a lot of scale round it and I thought it might be stuck (would have used some descaler on it had it been). It seems that the scale was the only thing that stopped it from leaking as the moment I turned it a chunk fell off and a tiny jet of water sprang out!

For the moment, I've wrapped some PTFE tape round the valve and this has helped, plus I've got a large tray that should catch everything if left overnight, but it still drips and I'd sleep easier knowing that it didn't. Any tips on stopping the leak until Monday when I can get a new valve (doubt my plumber's yard is open tomorrow)??

 

[ChrisR]

No point changing the brass body of the valve.
Take the square plate off your new valve body (4 [not 2] screws) and the lever and ball will come with it.
Turn off those valves, and bung if you can, then swap the plate for the new one.

 

[Gerry555]

No point changing the brass body of the valve.
Take the square plate off your new valve body (2 screws) and the lever and ball will come with it.
Turn off those valves, and bung if you can, then swap the plate for the new one.

Chris, are you talking about the diverter valve or the gate valve (to the left of the diverter in the picture above)? The gate valve is the one that's leaking.

 

[Gasguru]

The gate valves have a gland nut around the spindle. Normally tightening this down will stop any leaks.

I suggest you play safe and drain down the whole system, us pro's are used to working live and pulling vacumns but it can still be very stressfull at times ! . Remember to bale out and clean the sludge from the header tank before you drain down.


Leave the old Honeywell zone valve body in place (you don't have a diverter valve). Just remove the cover and four screws holding the actuator to the body.


Remove the cover from the new zone valve.

Then remove the 2 screws holding the actuator onto the new zone valve body.

Now remove the four bolts holding the ball/plate to the new valve body.

Retrieve the O ring.

Now fit these parts to the old valve body.

 

[Gerry555]

The gate valves have a gland nut around the spindle. Normally tightening this down will stop any leaks.

Thanks for your reply.

Tried tightening the nut and the thread seems to have gone (it just keeps revolving around). Wrapped a tone of PTFE tape around the leak and I've managed to stop it dripping. Should hold out until Monday when I can buy a new gate valve.

I have no choice but to drain down the system now. From what I gather I'll need to introduce inhibitor into the tank when I refill it. Yes? Are all brands the same, or are there some that I should avoid?

 

[Gasguru]

Stick to Fernox/Sentinel/Aqueous Logic.

All the cheap brands don't work

 

[Gerry555]

Stick to Fernox/Sentinel/Aqueous Logic.

Cheers, will do!