Can I override a faulty heating programmer?

[Ngosden]

Hi,

First time on here. Heating programmer has picked the BH weekend to pack up, and was wondering if it is possible to override it by connecting the live to the heating and hot water circuits? It’s an old system using a British Gas DCP 555054 and the whole thing is powered from a switched plug. My thinking was that I might be able to make the hot water and heating permanently live and then simply use the plug as an on/off switch. Is this feasible or am I in cuckoo land. Pic attached and any help appreciated.

 

[SUNRAY]

what happens if you set it to '24hours' or 'all day'

 

[JohnD]

Have you got thermostats for the radiators and the hot water cylinder?

Have you got anyone in the house who can suffer an electric shock by touching exposed live connections?

 

[CBW]

Yes, this can be done, but looks like you have a y-plan, so hot water off won’t work, and neither will pump overrun. However if you have thermostats for the hot water and heating as per @John D, then you could leave them permanently live as a temporary measure and use the thermostats for a little control, rather than using the switch.

Link from L to 3 and 4 and make sure you put the programmer back on to conceal the wires.

 

[JohnD]

Did your old one look something like either of these?



There are often lots going cheap on ebay from people who have bought something else. Yours was probably just rebranded with a BG name. There may be one local to you.

The SM2 is particularly popular with older people as it is so simple and intuitive. The clock motor gets noisy with age.

The Drayton LP was sold in millions. Don't get an Si version, no matter how cheap.

You need a 2-channel, with separate buttons for CH and HW.

 

[Ngosden]

Have a thermostat for the heating but none for the hot water. When you say live to 3 and 4, which colour wires are we talking about? Thanks

 

[Ngosden]

Did your old one look something like either of these?

View attachment 338444 View attachment 338445

There are often lots going cheap on ebay from people who have bought something else. Yours was probably just rebranded with a BG name.

Sadly not. I have found one of mine on eBay, but unlikely I’ll get hold of it till next week. Thanks

 

[Ngosden]

Yes’m, this can be done, but looks like you have a y-plan, so hot water off won’t work, and neither will pump overrun. However if you have thermostats for the hot water and heating as per @John D, then you could leave them permanently live as a temporary measure and use the thermostats for a little control, rather than using the switch.

Link from L to 3 and 4 and make sure you put the programmer back on to conceal the wires.

Sorry, still working out how to reply to specific posts. Appreciate all the advice, but just to clarify - I have room stat for CH but nothing for HW as far as I can tell. L to 3 and 4 is a bit confusing as 3 appears to be blank. Which colours am I linking? Thanks again

 

[Ngosden]

what happens if you set it to '24hours' or 'all day'

Can’t as programmer is dead

 

[SUNRAY]

what happens if you set it to '24hours' or 'all day'

Just googled the model to find it's electronic so such settings may be lost in the fault it should be OK to link L & 3 & 4, disconnect the yellow from 1 and insulate it then replace the programmer to protect the live terminals. that should work. After that you are relying on your thermostats to call for heat. However the hot water won't shut down if heating calls for heat so keep an eye on the hot water temperature if the weather gets any colder.

 

[Ngosden]

Just googled the model to find it's electronic so such settings may be lost in the fault it should be OK to link L & 3 & 4, disconnect the yellow from 1 and insulate it then replace the programmer to protect the live terminals. that should work. After that you are relying on your thermostats to call for heat. However the hot water won't shut down if heating calls for heat so keep an eye on the hot water temperature if the weather gets any colder.

Thanks for this. Really helpful. Also understand where 3 and 4 are now!

 

[SUNRAY]

Just googled the model to find it's electronic so such settings may be lost in the fault it should be OK to link L & 3 & 4, disconnect the yellow from 1 and insulate it then replace the programmer to protect the live terminals. that should work. After that you are relying on your thermostats to call for heat. However the hot water won't shut down if heating calls for heat so keep an eye on the hot water temperature if the weather gets any colder.

Goodness, just seen all the replies. Hopefully we all agree

 

[JohnD]

Sadly not. I have found one of mine on eBay, but unlikely I’ll get hold of it till next week. Thanks

Show us a pic of your old one. It is probably compatible.

EDIT
See it now. Looks different but fits on the same backplate

 

[Ngosden]

Just googled the model to find it's electronic so such settings may be lost in the fault it should be OK to link L & 3 & 4, disconnect the yellow from 1 and insulate it then replace the programmer to protect the live terminals. that should work. After that you are relying on your thermostats to call for heat. However the hot water won't shut down if heating calls for heat so keep an eye on the hot water temperature if the weather gets any colder.

Thanks for this. Really helpful. Also understand where 3 and 4 are now

 

[Ngosden]

Show us a pic of your old one. It is probably compatible.

EDIT
See it now. Looks different but fits on the same backplate