Candy grand o no water

[ENJAY1]

Hi all, got a candy grand o GO282/1-80, when I switch it on to do a wash it lights up as normal and you hear the door locking but that's all. I tried the self test thing from a thread on here and it comes up with the code 2.

I've pulled the inlet solenoid and I'm testing the ohms, I get about 136ohms on one solenoid and open circuit on the other.

I'm just looking to confirm I'm looking at a dead inlet valve and not another issue?

Cheers

 

[jj4091]

An open cct. on a solenoid would indeed point to a faulty valve. That is presuming there is no water going into the machine. If it is filling with water yet getting error 2 code then you could have a faulty pressure switch or blocked tube.

 

[ENJAY1]

No there's zero water going in, that's why I was looking at the solenoid. No expert though, just used Google to get this far lol.

 

[ENJAY1]

Ok valve replaced and still no water, water pressure is fine, the shut off tap works fine too.
Not sure where to look next. Maybe that pressure sensor thing with the pipe from the bottom of the drum?
I've no idea lol

 

[ENJAY1]

Ok so I removed the pcb to take a look, think I may have found a problem lol

And also this chip was a bit sooty

And on the back

That was after giving it a wipe,still a bit blackened though.

I looked up the board part number 41026074 and found plenty but it seems they need programmed, they just come blank for around the £40 mark.

But as the machine still does the spin cycle etc and the self test still works I think I'm going to buy a new chip and resistor and change them, see if that does the trick.

My thinking is that these are in some way related to the water solenoid, maybe the bad solenoid caused to much current which blew the resistor or something?

Not really sure but it's only a few quid to buy the components to try.

I'll update when there's progress

Cheers

 

[Echo the husky]

Those SMPS chips do fail sometimes, check it hasn't damaged the rectifier diodes supplying it. The resistor also acts as a fuse, make sure you replace with exactly the same resistor construction, as some resistor types will start a fire if the fault happens again.

 

[ENJAY1]

Those SMPS chips do fail sometimes, check it hasn't damaged the rectifier diodes supplying it. The resistor also acts as a fuse, make sure you replace with exactly the same resistor construction, as some resistor types will start a fire if the fault happens again.

I've decided just to buy the resistor first and see how that goes, do you think maybe the water valve solenoid thing just drew to much current and fried it?

I'm not an expert on these electronics by any means, just know how to use a soldering iron and can replace parts easy enough.

 

[ENJAY1]

Ok for anyone finding this thread with the same sort of issue replacing that resistor has fixed my machine. I think the faulty water valve solenoid thing just drew to much current which fried the resistor.

The thing that made sense to me was the fact that everything else worked fine, all the spin cycles etc and the machine could still do a self test.

The self test info I got from here

//www.diynot.com/diy/threads/another-candy-washing-machine-problem.260861/

A post by user zipper

"Only run the test program with an empty tub.
Turn the program selector to off. Press & hold in the first option button on the left (usually spin speed). Turn the program selector 2 positions clockwise. Release the button as soon as the LED on it illuminates. Once the button is released all the option LED’s, maximum spin LED, + all LED’s on the residual time indicator should become permanently lit. Within 5 seconds press the start button. If successful the residual time LED’s and the max spin LED start flashing alternatively with the option LED’s & the test program should start automatically. The machine then goes through a sequence of testing each function in turn. If a fault occurs the program is stopped and an error code displayed. Error codes are manifested by a repeated series of flashes on the first option LED & first LED in the residual time indicator (more or less straight above the option LED). Should an error be found you should see ”x” flashes – pause – then repeat (until the machine is switched off). To exit the test program at any time turn the machine off at the program selector."

 

[yardie]

Could prove useful for future readers what the rating of the resistor you replaced it with is? ohms and wattage
It is also worth noting that cleaning as much of that 'soot' of as much as possible is a very important step as it can be conductive and enable current to short across to other components.

 

[ENJAY1]

Yeh I've come across a number of threads on various things where the answer was never posted!

The resistor was a 100ohm and 2 watt, brown black brown gold. I had to use google images to get the colour code as it was to far gone to read the colours.

it cost me £2.50 of your finest British pounds for 10.