cement particle board

[Chops77]

following on from a few other questions in the tiling section, i have now decided to just board around the inside of the existing fire inset where my wood stove will be.
just wondered if this stuff will do the job if i just screw it onto the brick work and then paint with high temp paint.
http://www.diy.com/nav/build/timber...mpid=4&tmad=c&ecamp=cse_go?CAWELAID=266924648

 

[tim00]

Yes, that will do the trick provided that it's fire rated board -( class "0" and "1" i think). You would do well to prediscuss onsite all aspects of installation, including backing boards, with the stove fitter. Register plate and flue access must be considered.
I notice what looks like a flex cable, or TV cable, dropping down the right side of the c/breast and reappearing in the fire opening. I'd take care of that during the work.
Wire brush your sooty walls and have the flue swept and terminal examined before commencing work.
Have a CO alarm fitted.

 

[Chops77]

Cheers pal.
Where did you see cables?? If your referring to a photo in my other topic then these were gas and water pipes which have now been removed by the gas fitter.
I plan on just screwing these boards directly to the bare brick inset as they are smooth and level so no adhesive should be required. The register plate is ready to be installed. Just waiting for the chimney sweep on the 5/01/12 then all the tiling,boarding and finally lighting can get underway.
I already have the co alarm ready to be mounted.

One final question.... When fitting the stove flue to the stove, what is used to connect it. Adhesive,silicone,fire rope,cement?? Or does it just sit in under it's own weight.

 

[tim00]

Perhaps i'm confused with your pics, but there was a white "cable " near the candles in the fire opening, and running down the right corner of the chimney breast.

The stove to flue connection can be made in a number of ways depending on type of stove or flue. Leave that detail to the registered fitter. Where the flue penetrates the register plate it should be rope sealed above the register and below the register.

I noticed your register and brackets - the plate must be sealed around all edges and the access trap must have a handle and also be sealed.

Has anyone examined the roof c/stack terminal, flaunching, and brickwork?

Talk to the sweep about future sweeping thro the stove.

 

[Chops77]

Defo never been a cable down the side of chimney! It was probs the gas pipe which had a white sleeve on it.

I will be fitting the stove myself and getting it checked and signed off by the hetas engineer.
I know about rope around both sides of the flue on the register plate but it was the actual fitting into rhe stove I wondered about.
The register plate will be sealed with fire cement all around and the square cut out is for future chimney sweeping access. That hole has a flap on it which will have thin fire rope as a gasket.

I'm hoping that the chimney sweep says my chimney flue is in good order and it doesn't need the steel liner down it.

 

[masona]

i have now decided to just board around the inside of the existing fire inset where my wood stove will be

IMO I would leave it alone as you haven't got much room and looks better with the natural character brickwork

 

[tim00]

In your post"Fireplace Render??" all 3 pics show a white "cable". I assumed this is /was the same chimney breast and fire opening as in your final pics?

Was that a 1/4" soft copper gas pipe? Redundant gas pipe should be cut away and capped off at the Tee branch from the main gas supply pipe, typically 3/4".
Redundant water pipe is sometimes left wet, but gas should never be abandoned and left live.

 

[Chops77]

Same fireplace yes

The white pipe on the right was the gas inlet for the old gas fire, this has now been totally removed out of the room completely and capped off.
The 2 other copper pipes on the left were from an old back boiler which is disconnected and not used. These 2 pipes have been cut level with the brick Dacia but are unseen.

I've now finally decided to just leave the brick work as is but wire brush it and seal it.

Thanks.

 

[Chops77]

After brushing the brickwork it doesn't look that good.
Would I be able to line the inset with Galv steel (same stuff as register plate).I could then simply screw it on,seal edges with silicone and paint with high temp paint and it will not fall off and save expensive tile adhesives,tiles, render etc.
Thing is I can get the galv for free as I work at a metal works

 

[marklamond]

After brushing the brickwork it doesn't look that good.
Would I be able to line the inset with Galv steel (same stuff as register plate).I could then simply screw it on,seal edges with silicone and paint with high temp paint and it will not fall off and save expensive tile adhesives,tiles, render etc.
Thing is I can get the galv for free as I work at a metal works

Yep, certainly - thats what i would do as you are struggling for space as it is. Steel is a lot more durable (and cheaper!) than the cement board and looks great with a stove paint finish. To seal the corners use a good quality heat resistant silicone (available from stove suppliers etc). With such small a gap round the stove your recess will get furiously hot, certainly too hot to touch. Leave a couple of mm for the steel to expand at the edges (which you can hide with sealer) as the last thing you want is it buckling when you're firing the stove hard.

If you're feeling like a bit of fab work you can always make a steel box and slide it into the opening. Form a flange on the front for a neat finish.

Here is an example, not my install - i stumbled across it on the web. Hope whoever did it does not mind me posting it.