Chipboerd flooring

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Just about to lay some 8'x2' chipboard flooring (p5's).
I'm going to stagger the joins and 'screw' them down for a better fit,
Any other rules I should know of?
You don't have to lay the joins on a joist do you?
Thanks.
 
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stric said:
You don't have to lay the joins on a joist do you?

Yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes yes!

Messrs. Bodgett & Floggett who built my house employed an apprentice on day release from a special school, who relied on the T&G to support the joins that were not over joists. Many of these did not break until after I moved in.

I am now stuck with numerous repairs, soft patches in the floor, and ridges that show through the carpet.

I am gathering my strength to take all the furniture, floor coverings and kitchen units out and do it again properly. This will be vastly more trouble, expense and upheaval than if they had been laid correctly in the first place. Floors are like women.




If you lay them well, you can walk all over them for years without any trouble.
 
No problem, I was going to make sure the joins were on a joist, but lots of people have been telling me (including the flooring supplier) that you don't have to.
I will though.
 
stric said:
No problem, I was going to make sure the joins were on a joist, but lots of people have been telling me (including the flooring supplier) that you don't have to.
I will though.
You don't have to as the joins should be glued, and I'm afraid a lot of carpenters don't bother and this is maybe why JohnD is having problem. :cry:

If you glue all the T&G joins, you shouldn't have any problem. It's surprising how it does strengthen the floor.
 
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Have to say i agree. Its virtually impossible to line up all the joins with the joists anyway. make sure its well screwed onto the joists as well.

A little tip to save waste is start the first board off in the middle of the first run rather than the end and the offcuts will work out better and more useable
 
mark on the boards in chalk and pencil where any pipes wires junction boxes ect are[chalk easier to see pencil lasts longer]

this allows you to safely screw down the boards now and add aditional screws if squeeking starts ;)

also allows you safer and easier accsses to pipes and cables [and avoid damaging them]if required at a later date
you can also write the thickness of the boards for easier working if you have to cut at a later date ;)
 
It seems from this response that there is no general rule to fitting this type of flooring as you all have different ideas. :confused:
 
stric said:
It seems from this response that there is no general rule to fitting this type of flooring as you all have different ideas. :confused:
The whole idea of the T&G chipboards is that you don't have to join it the joists and it's quicker to do, otherwise what the point of T&G. Providing the joists centre are no more than 400mm (16") and put down the correct side of the T&G with glue, shouldn't be any problem.
 
I can't understand ,why on all the building sites I have worked on ,it is stipulated that t&g chipboard flooring has to cut on the joists and the only time it is layed in whole sheets is when it is a floating floor.
Still over the last few months contributing to various diy forums and being a carpenter for30 yrs .I have been informed by various other people on these forums,what ihave learnt and what the building industry thinks is the right way to do things are not nessasary Right :( :eek:
 

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