Cleaning alternator...
- Thread starter Deluks
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Swapped over entire throttle body, still no luck, although she ran few a few seconds with a splash of fuel down the inlet. (going round in circles now)
Is there any way to reset these ecu's? manual says disconnecting battery resets stored settings, don't know if this means full reset or not.
Is there any way to reset these ecu's? manual says disconnecting battery resets stored settings, don't know if this means full reset or not.
I can't really see it being an ECU problem, not imposiable but very sodin unlikely, if it was the wrong setting in the ECU you would get fuel out of the injector, possibly not the right amount but it would be squirting out.
Next thing I would check is fuel supply, to do this disconnect the fuel feed pipe to the injector and put it in a smallish container, then switch the ignition on, the pump should run for a second or two, before cutting out and you should have about 20 to 50 ml of petrol in the container. If you can give this a go, and let us know what happens please.
Vic
Next thing I would check is fuel supply, to do this disconnect the fuel feed pipe to the injector and put it in a smallish container, then switch the ignition on, the pump should run for a second or two, before cutting out and you should have about 20 to 50 ml of petrol in the container. If you can give this a go, and let us know what happens please.
Vic
I know fuel is good, the housing that the injector sits in fills up with fuel every time I attempt a start. As mentioned previously, I removed the injector cap and had a jet of fuel coming out of the top. So it's getting to the injector, but not past it.
Browsing through the electrical section of the Haynes, there appears to be a fuel pump relay, in the wiring diagram this also has the fuel injector solenoid going to it in one direction or another.
Would it be possible for the relay to partially fail? As pumps are fine, if the relay also has some sort of control over the injector then maybe I should try replacing that? Where it is or what it looks like however is a mystery to me
Browsing through the electrical section of the Haynes, there appears to be a fuel pump relay, in the wiring diagram this also has the fuel injector solenoid going to it in one direction or another.
Would it be possible for the relay to partially fail? As pumps are fine, if the relay also has some sort of control over the injector then maybe I should try replacing that? Where it is or what it looks like however is a mystery to me
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Well yes, but this is not telling us that there is a good flow rate to the injector, at this stage we need to know for sure, there is a good flow to it, if for no other reason than to rule it out. Fault finding is more often than not a process of elimination, and when you start ruling things out that haven't been checked fully, this is where you start to chase your tail, I know it sounds like a pain to check something you think is working, and your probably at your wits end, but if you could please check it as I mentioned it would be very helpfull.
Vic
Will do. I'll measure it out and let you know the ml.
The regulated pressure for the fuel is stated at 0.8 - 1.2 bar in the haynes. Shame I can't test this directly. The jet I had was fairly squirty though, went skywards and made a mess.
The regulated pressure for the fuel is stated at 0.8 - 1.2 bar in the haynes. Shame I can't test this directly. The jet I had was fairly squirty though, went skywards and made a mess.
Ok magic.
This is a bit of a basic test, and the result will either be, plenty or needs further investigation, so you don't have to be too accurate on measuring the amount.
This is a bit of a basic test, and the result will either be, plenty or needs further investigation, so you don't have to be too accurate on measuring the amount.
Great stuff, thats proved its not a fuel supply problem and the fuel pump relay is working.
I was going to print off the test data for the SPI unit in work today, but the computer with it on has thrown a wobbler, and I haven't been able to access any tech data, all day A good mate of mine has got the same data though, so i'm going to try and get it off him.
Have you got or can you borrow a multimeter you'll need one to do the tests on the SPI unit. There are a couple of basic test that can be done in the meantime, until I can get the test data for you. If you can let me know if you've got a meter to hand or not, and i'll try and go through a couple of tests with you later.
I was going to print off the test data for the SPI unit in work today, but the computer with it on has thrown a wobbler, and I haven't been able to access any tech data, all day
A good mate of mine has got the same data though, so i'm going to try and get it off him.Have you got or can you borrow a multimeter
you'll need one to do the tests on the SPI unit. There are a couple of basic test that can be done in the meantime, until I can get the test data for you. If you can let me know if you've got a meter to hand or not, and i'll try and go through a couple of tests with you later.That's awesome, thanks. I have a basic MM but not massively clued up on how to use it, have been testing wires for signal only to, but some of the guys on one of the VW forums reckon I should've been testing for voltages.
I am fairly clueless right now, and I'm tempted to just punt £50 on a replacement ECU off of eBay.
I am fairly clueless right now, and I'm tempted to just punt £50 on a replacement ECU off of eBay.
I seem to think the SPI should have a live feed to it, to see if it has, firstly set you multimeter to dc volts on a fairly low range, and measure the voltage across the battery terminals, this is just to check the meter is working and on the right range, you should obviously get a reading of about 12V.
Unplug the SPI
Switch ignition on
With the -ve test lead on the -ve battery terminal(helps if you can wedge this into it so you don't have to hold it)
Now test the voltage on each of the terminals in the plug, as I say I think one of the wires should be live. Let us know how you get on.
Unplug the SPI
Switch ignition on
With the -ve test lead on the -ve battery terminal(helps if you can wedge this into it so you don't have to hold it)
Now test the voltage on each of the terminals in the plug, as I say I think one of the wires should be live. Let us know how you get on.
how did the car start before carrying out the work?
if it was ok then i would have thought it has to be an issue with the timing or an electrical sensor not signalling
Did you remove or disconnect a crank sensor if it has one?
if it was ok then i would have thought it has to be an issue with the timing or an electrical sensor not signalling
Did you remove or disconnect a crank sensor if it has one?
Got back late, will have a look tomorrow.
Ch: before the work the car started first time everytime. Don't know whether orn what crank sensor is but no reference to such in the Haynes and I reconnected everything as it was.
Ch: before the work the car started first time everytime. Don't know whether orn what crank sensor is but no reference to such in the Haynes and I reconnected everything as it was.
Mind if I step in?
Check the valve timing again, and see that the dizzy rotor arm - if it has one - is pointing to the correct cylinder.
If thats ok, try a push / tow start?
John
Check the valve timing again, and see that the dizzy rotor arm - if it has one - is pointing to the correct cylinder.
If thats ok, try a push / tow start?
John
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