Cold house - where to start???

[Norfolkgirl]

I have a freezing house and don't know how to rectify it. I realise last year was particularly cold but the problem has been the same every since I've lived here. Now not looking forward to another winter.

I live in a 3 storey modern townhouse built in 2005. Mine is the end house of 3 of the same type although mine is linked to a flat over a driveway to the rear car park.

The front of the house is north facing and all 3 rooms on each level can get freezing cold in winter even when the heating is on. The cold also extends to the kitchen at the rear of the house which has a tiled floor which you can't stand on without shoes (or slippers ) in the winter months. All other rooms at the back of the house/internal rooms are ok.

I have a Boilermate 2000 central heating system with rads with TRV's to most rooms. Loft is well insulated. The first floor sitting room has 2 rads but this room also has the room thermostat. In winter I need to keep the door open to the sitting room or the heating turns off because this room gets too warm and the the others then remain cold.

I have had a larger radiator put in one of the front bedrooms but it's made no real difference. I've been told that all other rads are of the right size for the rooms.

All the other owners in my row of houses have the same problem. One commented that his front downstairs room is so cold you could keep a turkey in it a Christmas and not have to worry about putting it in the fridge!

I don't know where to start as it seems that the house is just losing heat but it's not that it's old and I wouldn't expect a newish house to be so cold. I've lived in older houses that are far more comfortable!

Can anyone give me any ideas or what to do?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

First think is to try and check what insulation is in the cavities assuming traditionally built. Have you any idea what the wall construction is? Sometimes you can see down the cavity from the loft space.

 

[mointainwalker]

I've been told that all other rads are of the right size for the rooms.

Whoever told you that is probably a fool ( subject to (1) in final para ) . This is self-evident because the rooms are freezing. The rads are either undersized or were calculated for the house having a much greater level of insulation. Unsure how you wouuld check that.

Freddy's idea about checking for the cavity-wall insulation is a good one as it is by no means unknown for builders to "forget" this and it is an important insulation factor. You are still within the 10 year limit so would have a good chance of getting a retro-fit from the insurance company if it isn't there.

Other easy things to check ( but only when it gets cold ) is if there are major draughts blowing through electrical sockets ( from cavity) or between window-frames and the wall.

(1) Have you checked that warm-water is actually circulating to all the rads and if they are hot from top to bottom ? If they are blocked with muck or have air-locks or are not correctly balanced, this can dramatically cut flow and thus available heat

 

[Nige F]

I have a freezing house . One commented that his front downstairs room is so cold you could keep a turkey in it a Christmas and not have to worry about putting it in the fridge!

?

Rent the house to Bernard Matthews Dunno what you expect in Norfolk - That`s why my Great Grandfather moved to Sussex Lazy Wind blows across those Broads

 

[Norfolkgirl]

First think is to try and check what insulation is in the cavities assuming traditionally built. Have you any idea what the wall construction is? Sometimes you can see down the cavity from the loft space.

According to the NHBC home owners card that applies to my property the external walls are brick and block and the insulation method is full cavity.

 

[Norfolkgirl]

I've been told that all other rads are of the right size for the rooms.

Other easy things to check ( but only when it gets cold ) is if there are major draughts blowing through electrical sockets ( from cavity) or between window-frames and the wall.

(1) Have you checked that warm-water is actually circulating to all the rads and if they are hot from top to bottom ? If they are blocked with muck or have air-locks or are not correctly balanced, this can dramatically cut flow and thus available heat

When I replaced the sockets and light switches in the winter months 2 years ago I commented at the time how it was like a gale was blowing up through the the internal walls!! I haven't really noticed there being drafts around any of the windows though.

As for the rads they are working fine. All heat up quickly and are hot from top to bottom. Those in the "cold" rooms I have to have to keep the TRV at the highest setting.

 

[geraint]

I've been told that all other rads are of the right size for the rooms.

Other easy things to check ( but only when it gets cold ) is if there are major draughts blowing through electrical sockets ( from cavity) or between window-frames and the wall.

(1) Have you checked that warm-water is actually circulating to all the rads and if they are hot from top to bottom ? If they are blocked with muck or have air-locks or are not correctly balanced, this can dramatically cut flow and thus available heat

When I replaced the sockets and light switches in the winter months 2 years ago I commented at the time how it was like a gale was blowing up through the the internal walls!! I haven't really noticed there being drafts around any of the windows though.

As for the rads they are working fine. All heat up quickly and are hot from top to bottom. Those in the "cold" rooms I have to have to keep the TRV at the highest setting.

Sounds like the posters on here....

hot and cold with no use....

 

[theoldun]

Sounds like the posters on here....

hot and cold with no use....

See you got the bull by the nuts tonight then Mr G.
Was it Mr Fluff?
Regards oldun

 

[htgeng]

There was a report on some houses on a TV show with dominic littlewood. I forget the name of the show but it was one of his. They did thermal imaging surveys on the houses and found they were built with insufficient insulation. You should be getting NHBC to investigate this asap!

 

[holmslaw]

According to the NHBC home owners card that applies to my property the external walls are brick and block and the insulation method is full cavity.

When I replaced the sockets and light switches in the winter months 2 years ago I commented at the time how it was like a gale was blowing up through the the internal walls!!

Those two statements don't hang together because if the construction was as stated it would be impossible to get a draft through a socket or light switch box. I would get onto the nhbc, if they do nothing, hire you're own building surveyor.

 

[mointainwalker]

Just to be certain , you could take off several front-plates and have a good look inside ( best isolate those circuits first ) with a torch and that will give you a good idea if :

a) None
b) Some
c) All

.. of the insulation is missing.

If you take photos and need to contact the NHBC, these photos might make them move quicker than just your uncorroborated say-so.

 

[Norfolkgirl]

If you take photos and need to contact the NHBC, these photos might make them move quicker than just your uncorroborated say-so.

.

Thanks but NHBC site says "Problems with, or the absence of, cavity wall insulation is not covered during years three to ten of the policy" so would I be wasting my time contacting them??

 

[mointainwalker]

If there is no cavity wall insulation then you have:

a) Fraud or misrepresentation by the builder on the buyer ( pursue either via NHBC or Trading Standards )

b) Breach of Building Standards/Regs for required insulation. Don't know who would punish this.

NHBC is an insurance scheme ( run by housebuilders ! ) and we all know that insurances look for loop-holes/exclusions. Just because they say it;s excluded doesn't necessarily mean that they can't be embarrassed/forced by courts to pay it.

If you really have no insulation this is a major defect so serious as to spoil your enjoyment of the house and dramatically increase your costs.

Logically I cannnot understand why the change in policy after two years .

You need to check what you have got and then come back and tell us.

 

[holmslaw]

Thanks but NHBC site says "Problems with, or the absence of, cavity wall insulation is not covered during years three to ten of the policy" so would I be wasting my time contacting them??

I'm pretty sure that statement has no validity, the statute of limitations on building work is 12 years. So if there is anything inherently wrong or in breach of the building regs you have 12 years to make a claim.

Heres a link to Part L of the building regs - http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/buildingregulations/approveddocuments/partl/approved

Have you spoken to your council building control they may know something about the buildings history.