confused over insulating solid walls.

I think alittlerespect is bang on the money and woody is a clown and I am a genius and squirells are lovely
 
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@dan83590

What you have wrong is that the damp-proof membrane should not be against the outer wall but the inner-wall.

The reason for this is that you want to prevent the warm moisture -laden air of the house meeting the cold, outside-air and condensing. The membrane on the warm(house)-side stops the moisture on the warm-side of the insulation and so on the other side you get cold-dry air meeting warm-dry air which results in colder air but no condensation.

From reading a few posts I also think that legs-akimbo loves him/her-self a littlte too much for someone whose job is working out thermal cp-efficients.
 
I've had penetrating damp on my solid brick wall which I think I've got to the bottom of (poor state of pointing, rotton window frames etc). I've removed the plasterboard and membrane, and the wall is drying out nicely 4 months down the line.

However, I can't wait any longer for it to dry, and have to get some dryline up.

I've battened the wall ready for some boards, but can't decide which boards to buy, given that the wall is still drying out. I can leave one return open for the time being so there is still some ventilation, but don't want any moisture in the wall to penetrate the dryline and leave stains. I'm not filling in the void between board and wall with anything, so the wall can continue to dry out.

I've left some gaps in the vertical battens so there will be at least some limited airflow to help with drying out. If the wall doesn't dry out 100%, I need to make sure any latent moisture in the wall & void doesn't penetrate the board.

Does anybody have any tips on what boards to use? Or other advice? Many thanks from a concerned amateur!
 
Both polystyrene and PIR boards are impervious to moisture so make your choice according to :

1) Available space
2)Degree of insulation required ( PIR 60% better than exp poly )
3) Budget - PIR three times or more than exp poly.
 
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Yet another document to read:

http://www.energysavingtrust.org.uk/business/content/view/full/70495

Can anybody help with my situation?

I want to insulate my solid walls, i think i have read to many articles on this and have left myself confused and frustrated.

After reading about the different ways of insulating the walls, i have decided to use thermalite basic board @ 40mm thick which will give me a thermal value of 0.80 and a energy rating of A2 according to their site.

i have read on various sites that to get an even better thermal value i should battern the wall and then place the thermaboard on the batons placed at 600 apart.

This site says:
Internal thermal boards can be fitted to the inside surface of the wall. It is particularly beneficial to line cold outside walls, especially those facing north or east. Use foil-backed plasterboard nailed to battens.
Firstly fix battens on the wall and then fix the thermal boards to the battens. This will leave a gap behind the board, which will trap a layer of still, dry air - similar to double glazing your wall.

My questions are:
1) its says use foil- backed plasterboard. And then its says fix thermal boards to batons, the thermal boards don't have a foil on the back of them. So could somebody explain this more clearly. sorry if i am being thick here.
2) It says on other sites, that i should baton, then fill with rockwool, then put of pvc protection over that and lastly fix the thermal boards, because this will stop any damp.
3) What extra thermal protection will i gain over if i use batons and thermals board as appose to just fixing thermal boards straight to the wall?
4) is it possible to fix the thermal board straight to the wall with nothing behind it only the adesieve?
5) Could somebody please give me the correct way of installing the thermal boards with the batons.
i.e Can i batons the wall & then secure the thermal boards straight to them without any pvc or rock wool etc.

Sorry for all the question but in i am really confused and need to get on with the work as my wife is expecting and i need to get all the work done before the new arrival.

Merry xmas
 
There is always external insulation, and keep the rooms bigger,

Blue Flag 0800 630 0010 (not sure if thats allowed, but hey)
GALLERY]
 
Apologies for bringing a dead post alive again but am about to follow nosealls advice to insualte an exterior single skin wall ... just one thing is bothering me ... what does the c/c mean below ??

fix a 4"x1" batten horizontally to the top and bottom of the wall, i.e. at skirting height and at the wall-ceiling abutment. then fill in at 400mm c/c with 2"x1" tanalised battens.
 

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