Conservatory damp proof

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Lancashire
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When installing conservatory frames I have been told to put in a vertical damp proof in by grinding a line parallel with the frame, I would like to know how to put in the DPM, do I trap it between the frame and the wall (when I seal the frame to the wall) and morter it into the ground out line????
 
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you mean a vertical dpc.

when a conservatory frame is fixed to an outside wall, part of the wall will be external and the other part becomes internal, due to you building a 'connie'.

unfortunately, driving rain will not recognize this internal/external nonsense and will soak the masonry regardless, whether it is inside or out.
a vertical dpc will prevent this from happening.

the same set of rules apply to the roof too. it is called a cavity tray.

this saturating of the brickwork will only happen rarely and will only effect porus or semi-porus masonry. most brickwork can stand a good lashing of rain as it will dry out as soon as the rain stops. it is only on the rare occasions that prolonged driving rain strikes one elevation of the building, that preventative measures will be required
 
what percentage of conservatories are actually built with vertical DPCs?

I'm just about at the point where I've just about finished my dwarf wall, and I wasn't aware of this either!

I have a victorian solid wall, so I assume my bricks are less porous than some... should I fit one? How deep into the wall does the DPC go?

Richard: How were you told to fit a DPC? I assume you're talking about cutting a vertical slot with an angle griinder and pointing in a normal DPC?

Cheers

Gary
 
the only dpc you need is above ground level and under your frames ,who ever told you to put dpc up the side of wall are talking out there a..., vertical damp is only used on cavity walls seperating bricwork and blockwork up the revils
 
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i think its a good idea to stop any damp transferring through to the new internal wall and will only take a little time to achieve just get a stihl saw with a diamond tipped blade and cut through the brick then slide the dpc into the cutting best done behind the frame to stop things looking unsightly.
i also do the same on extensions rather than cutting out a 50mm-75mm cavity to continue it on the new build
we built a big extension on blackburn hospital and the weather is so bad up there that we had to build 100mm facework then 100mm cavity then 100mm blockwork then 75mm cavity then 100mm internal skin of blockwork as driving rain was a major cause of damp on other new builds there that had lots of damp
 
fastneattrowel said:
the only dpc you need is above ground level and under your frames ,who ever told you to put dpc up the side of wall are talking out there a..., vertical damp is only used on cavity walls seperating bricwork and blockwork up the revils

why would you want a dpc under a plastic frame??? (as most conservatories are plastic)
 
presuming your plastic sill inside it dont reall matter but every one dont use plastic some might use wood if you got a solid 9 inch dwarf base wall would you lay 100m dpc inside? 215m dpc cost pennies,anything about wallsdamp ask a expert
 
well i wouldn't build a solid 9inch wall for start i build it 4inch or with a cavity then either way i horizontal damp under the frame seems a waste of time and money
 
whats the difference in having a cavity wall and 25 m of glass on top your conservatory iam sure the heat will escape through frame and glass quicker than a dry lined 9inch solid wall , i think you been reading too many diy books lol
 
never read a diy book in my life just 24 years as a city and guilds bricklayer, and i think you'd be surprised how good glass units are now
my opinion is that 9 inch walls are for gardens
maybe we should just agree to differ
 
city and guild i thought so , i learnt my trade being a hod carrier 1st and rising through the ranks as one of londons most sought after trowel, most best brickies i known have no qualifications ,all there stuff is done out on site not reading books and taking tests so at the end o the day they might want to become building inspectors who havent a clue in most cases, you sure your not one lol
 
not sure whether I've caused some confusion - the dwarf wall is a 50mm cavity wall, but the house wall the conservatory is fitted to is a solid victorian job.

something else that I donit quite follow about its constructiton: The cavity is hollow all the way down to the strip foundation. What prevents rain water forming in here and then evaporating all the way up the cavity into the inside of the conservatory and steaming the windows up etc? Just the window ledge? Perhaps the water would never ingress to that extent...
 
your cavity should be bridged gary at top of dwarf wall with a dpc in between block and brick, no steaming up , houses are built now days with the cavity right down to foundations and a few inches of dry mix applied at base in between if any moisture does occure,
 
fastneattrowel said:
city and guild i thought so , i learnt my trade being a hod carrier 1st and rising through the ranks as one of londons most sought after trowel, most best brickies i known have no qualifications ,all there stuff is done out on site not reading books and taking tests so at the end o the day they might want to become building inspectors who havent a clue in most cases, you sure your not one lol
yep thought so seen plenty of people who have picked it up as they have gone along and mostly with shocking results most should have stuck to the meat slicer in tesco :rolleyes:
 

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