Conservatory damp proof

[jonny7913]

i make fastneat right on everything said

 

[garyo]

Cheers - so a 250mm DPC laid right across. How would it seal - stuck down with some cement and then the weight of the internal cill on it?

 

[jonny7913]

no gary,inbetween brick work and block work,drop a 150 damp against inside of brick flush with top then lay your block flat against the inner side of brickwork bridge the cavity

 

[noseall]

what percentage of conservatories are actually built with vertical DPCs?

I'm just about at the point where I've just about finished my dwarf wall, and I wasn't aware of this either!

I have a victorian solid wall, so I assume my bricks are less porous than some... should I fit one? How deep into the wall does the DPC go?

Richard: How were you told to fit a DPC? I assume you're talking about cutting a vertical slot with an angle griinder and pointing in a normal DPC?

Cheers

Gary

yes Gary you're spot on, though i personally don't think that it is necessary. as i've said on previous posts, retro-fitting vertical dpc's and cavity trays is difficult and costly, and should be limited to those areas that warrant it.

like wind swept coastal areas or exposed rain lashed areas.



like manchester.

i think some on this thread have got the wrong end of the stick.

 

[jonny7913]

you might be right noseall about going in wrong direction , but if you have a cavity it has to be closed unless your using cavity batons which on a conservatory i doubt very much, keep it keep it simple a low dwarf wall built 9 inch solid is ample end o story lol

 

[noseall]

read here,http://cavitytrays.co.uk/pdf/damp_proofing/Type B.pdf

 

[garyo]

no gary,inbetween brick work and block work,drop a 150 damp against inside of brick flush with top then lay your block flat against the inner side of brickwork bridge the cavity

bugger.... I've just laid the top inner course of bricks... any ideas how I could achieve the same by closng the cavity with thin slices of thermalites using a similar method (I can't figure out how I'd stop them dropping down into the cavity before the mortar drys)?

 

[noseall]

just use cavity closers.

 

[jonny7913]

if your inner skin is not being plastered and its been built you may as well buy some 300m cheapest damp lay it right across cut off the excess in side,lay it on a thin bed of mortar but you should have vertical damps on door opening

 

[richard.jones13]

a. What are cavity closers?
b. Is it ok to use the last suggestion off 300mm damp accross the cavity if you will be plastering in the future?
c. After cutting a vertical damp line do you put in the DPC then press in mortar? (I cant think of any other method of securing the DPC), is it ok to plaster over the the DPC when it is in the wall? (as I understand it the DPC will be internal and I am planning on plastering that wall)
d. Are cavity trays needed to be fit for the or will the flashing be enough?
(and how do you get the correct stepped pattern for lead flashing??)

 

[noseall]

a. What are cavity closers?

 

[noseall]

a vertical dpc is used at openings where the external brickwork meets the internal blockwork, usually up the reveals. cavity closers alleviate the need for this.

 

[richard.jones13]

So from what you are saying there is no need to for a vertical DPM where the new brickwork joins the house or where the frame joins the house?

 

[richard.jones13]

If I knew how to put a picture onto this site I could show a jpeg of the dwarf wall so far.....[/img]

 

[noseall]

So from what you are saying there is no need to for a vertical DPM where the new brickwork joins the house or where the frame joins the house?

i didn't say there was no need, just that events that require the need for a vertical dpc, in the situation you describe, are rare.

i personally wouldn't try and retro-fit a cavity tray or vertical dpc unless the situation, (weather pattern, prevailing wind) absolutely demanded it.