Conventional Central Heating Mystery Pipe?

Thats 15mm pipe not 10. And it is a bypass. What problems are you having ?
 
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It's just a balancing gate valve on the Primary return. Because the primary is already reduced locally to 15mm just leave it open. The Pump is fitted on the Return

The picture is a little confusing, but that's what it looks like to me!
 
I have highlighted the pipe in question and the manual valve,.
And here's the photo!

The bypass pipe looks like 15mm to me.


A bypass is not really necessary if you have a mid-position valve. Close it and monitor the effect on the boiler.
 
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Thats 15mm pipe not 10. And it is a bypass. What problems are you having ?

oops sorry yes it is 15mm, it is smaller than the rest of the pipework so hopefully everyone got the general idea.
I didn't really want to go into the problems in this post as i thought i need to make a seperate post for that but here goes:

There are a few problems but the main problem i get is bad knocking/clunking of pipes when the heating has been on for a few hours, it only last for about 20 seconds but sounds really bad, it has been hard for me to work this out as it happens so fast. What i think i have found out is the pipe thats seems to be knocking is the one from the bottom of the expansion tank in the loft connecting to the CH pipework near the pump, before the knocking starts i think the pump is off, the pipe is warm, then after the knocking there is a gushing of water from the expansion tank, then the pump restarts, the pipe is then cold.
 
What's that shiny new pump doing at the bottom?

I should have moved that out the way before taking the photo, probably looks confusing, i bought it to replace the current one as i thought the current one was goosed, it was making strange noises but then was ok again so i put it down to other problems, might change it over anyway at some point.
 
Paul can you clarify something for me - Does the pipe with the valve on go from the bottom of the valve to the cylinder without any other connections? That is what I was thinking
 
I have highlighted the pipe in question and the manual valve,.
And here's the photo!

The bypass pipe looks like 15mm to me.


A bypass is not really necessary if you have a mid-position valve. Close it and monitor the effect on the boiler.

thanks, yes it is 15mm think my eyesights going, i was tempted to close it but was worried something bad might happen !! I will give it a try tomorrow.
What should i be looking out for when i monitor the boiler?
Also how did you put the photo in the post?
 
Looks like the 15mm goes into a fitting reducer to 22mm at the bottom corner below the valve.

To post a pic you go to the picture in your album and copy and paste the Diynot 'net' code into your post.

Blagard has raised an important point.

Edited for typo.
 
I have highlighted the pipe in question and the manual valve,.
And here's the photo!

The bypass pipe looks like 15mm to me.


A bypass is not really necessary if you have a mid-position valve. Close it and monitor the effect on the boiler.

Just had a thought, one of the things i have noticed is that when i have the CH off but the Hot Water on for a while the radiators warm up a little. I thought this may be due to a faulty diverter valve, but could this bypass valve being open cause this to happen?
 
I think I may get shot down for this but here goes.

In the absence of a reply from Paul about the pipe going from the bottom of the valve to the bottom cylinder connection with no T's etc. It would mean it is the Primary Return

The bottom tank connection Paul mentions connected to the pipe near the pump sounds like the feed going into the return as well.

Finally if that is a Gundfos pump on a Return, I think it has been fitted the wrong way around!

Now ducking for cover! :eek:
 
Something looks very strange about that setup that's for sure, although as I found out the other day :oops: photographs can be deceptive.
 
Paul can you clarify something for me - Does the pipe with the valve on go from the bottom of the valve to the cylinder without any other connections? That is what I was thinking

The main pipe from the bottom of the cylinder comes out and then down through the floorboards,the 15mm pipe with the valve on joins this on the corner with a tee peice (15mm/22mm/22mm), hopefully i have added a new photo below which might show this better.

 
Indeed, a deceptive photo.

It's a bypass but why you need one on a Y-plan I'm not sure.

Do all your radiators have thermostatic radiator valves?

Edited: Crossed posts with Blagard. And for my poor English.
 

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