Cutting out brickwork for french doors

[mwb1]

Morning all,
I'm going to be replacing a kitchen window with upvc french doors ( no lintel issues as i'm not widening the opening). I need to cut down approx 15 courses of facing bricks. I'm able to cut down where the mortar joints run so effectivley only cutting every other brick. My question is whether you would re-tooth the cut bricks or fit some type of frame moulding after fitting to hide the cut? Also i have a 9" disc grinder, shall i use this or hire a petrol stone cutter? Thanks

 

[ladylola]

It's really just a cosmetic question and will depend on exactly where in the wall your new frame fits. Assuming it sits back a few inches I would personally retooth the brick work, cut ends would just look cheap and amatureish. Equally I wouldn't go for the pvc moulding option either for the same reason plus if your cut isn't perfect it will show up in undulations in the moulding.
As to the cutter, I'd advise sticking with the 9", the petrol jobbies are heavy to use especially in the vertical position. You can also use the 9" more easily to cut the horizontal joints for toothing in.

 

[mwb1]

Thank you for your advice, i shall follow it.

 

[Richard C]

Personally I would hire the MF petrol disc cutter, you will be through it in seconds even just using a stone disc. It’ll go through it like a knife through butter & the larger disc will give you much cleaner & straighter cuts; you’ll be messing around with a 9” electric grinder for ages & it won’t look half as good. Please be VERY, VERY careful if you haven’t used one before or are not familiar with handling such equipment; they are frighteningly awesome bits of kit & cut through flesh & bone even more easily!

As for the cut edge; it can look surprisingly good & almost unnoticeable in some cases,
depending on how well it’s done & what bricks you have. I’d make the call once you see it as badly done dog tooting on ½ bricks will look even worse, especially if the mortar doesn’t match.

 

[mwb1]

Thanks for that. The facing bricks are antique rustics (1930's bungalow). Would you screw a batton to the wall as a guide or just follow a chalk line? Also, can i please ask if you wedge the new frame in first then foam it in and screw?

 

[Richard C]

No, don’t batten it’ll hinder access & could be dangerous if you catch it with the cutting disc. The “MF” disc cutter is quiet heavy but that, in conjunction with the large disc, actually works in your favour as it helps produce a nice straight cut. Try a few practice runs down the bit you’re taking out to get the feel of it; it’s a matter of having confidence but respect for the equipment you’re using. Assuming your walls are cavity, fit cavity closers to the sides & bottom; as they won’t be full height, you may need to cut the outer side lip away to clear the frame. The frame usually sits at DPC level so you will need to reinstate the DPC strips on the inner & outer courses at the bottom if it gets damaged.

Pack the frame tight but don’t wedge it or may distort. Fit packers either side of where your frame fixings are going or, again, it will distort when you tighten them up. You can foam afterwards if the gap is large but if the door is the correct size for the opening, & your cuts are good, all you’ll need is a decent bead of silicon around the outside of the frame; use low modulus, natural cure but don’t use silicone on the inside. Most will fit either a small UPVC angle or nose bead to finish it off which I reckon will be the best option for you to avoid seeing the frogs in the cut bricks. One other thing to determine your decision to dog tooth or not is to have a look at how well the bricks are aligned over the courses your cutting, some aren’t good & can cause all sorts of problems & odd sizes; as I said, cut the opening, see how it looks & then decide if it's worth the hassle.

Just so you’re aware that even though you’ve no lintel issue, fitting the new door is subject to Building Notice unless you use a FENSA (or other) registered installer. LABC may also want to inspect the opening & your method of closing the cavities but I’m not sure so a phone call may be advised. You will almost certainly be asked for a compliance certificate when you come to sell.

 

[mwb1]

Thanks Richard, yes i checked with the council today and there is a 48hr building notice (£80ish) reqd. Your right about the brick alignment, i'm sure some of the end faces will be trimmed. I've found a small local rehau fabricator so will probably order from them. Thanks again for your advice.

 

[Richard C]

I’ve personally had Rehau units for over 4 years now, absolutely no problems at all & you won’t go wrong for the money. Good luck, be careful with that cutter & come back if you need anything else.

 

[mwb1]

A couple more questions if you are still around!

The french doors will have a small (900 x 450) window to one side. Should i fix this to the doors first or fit it first then fix it to the doors?
Are there any special type of fixings (other than regular screws) i should use to fix the two together?
Should i bed both door and side window on mortar or silicone?
I have some 8 x 120 fischer hammerfix fixings. Are these okay for fixing the frames into brickwork?

Thanks in advance of any advice.

 

[Richard C]

The french doors will have a small (900 x 450) window to one side.

Assume it sits under the same lintel?

Should i fix this to the doors first or fit it first then fix it to the doors?
Are there any special type of fixings (other than regular screws) i should use to fix the two together?

Fit the door frame first then the window frame; if the window falls within a critical location, it must be safety glass as will the glass in the French doors.
http://www.windowstoday.co.uk/glass_safe.htm
Self taping screws, fix through from the window into the outer door frame profile.

Should i bed both door and side window on mortar or silicone?

A GOOD bed of Silicone.

I have some 8 x 120 fischer hammerfix fixings. Are these okay for fixing the frames into brickwork?

No I wouldn't use those, get yourself some proprietary frame fixings;
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/19356/Fixings/Frame-Fixings/Frame-Fixings-8-x-100mm-Pack-of-10

 

[mwb1]

Yes, all under same lintel still and will be safety glass throughout.

Thanks very much again Richard.