damp on interior wall.

[mildmanneredjanitor]

What is the maximum height for rising damp? I would assume that it is less than 1 metre seeing as most treatments involve stripping plaster to this height. Presumably capillary action only travels so far.

Madsey, is there a marked difference in damp readings above and below one metre?

 

[madsey]

the damp only seams to reach about 24'' up the wall,sometimes less than that.

 

[Thermo]

well if hes talking about me i suppose the 7 years i spent training as a qualified surveyor at the College of Estate Management (yes thats the one that is recognized worldwide and has the Prince of Wales as its Patron) whilst working on site, and the former years growing up alongside and working with my father, a builder of forty years, i suppose i must be guilty then(oh not to mention the many years experaince since then). Still i like to think that i am able to quote from experaince and what i have been taught by an RICS accredited establishment, rather than posting items from damp companies.
Perhaps some should look at the wealth of helpful information that many have posted across the board over a period of time to help others, as a gauge of their knowledge, skill and ability, rather than one mans rantings on one post. I would also point out that several good pieces of advice have been posted together with several good questions and learning points raised.
If this inflames an already boring and pointless argument im sorry, but im fed up of hearing someone trying to bolster up their ego and run others down. I would like to think this is an end to it but im sure it wont be.


Thermo

 

[shaggy]

Qualifications and experience are a good combination Thermo.

 

[mildmanneredjanitor]

Seeing as the property has been unheated and unventilated for such a long time, I reckon you should just ensure (as mentioned previously) that no air bricks are covered and monitor the situation. It might also be worth checking the water meter (if fitted) to make sure you aren't leaking anywhere!

P.S.

madsey
Joined: 01 Nov 2004
Posts: 4
Location: United Kingdom

I'ts not normally like this here!

 

[tim00]

Yes Masona, Limelite is permeable similar to Thistle Multi-mix.

Do vent and heat the premises as suggested this will give you a base line.

If the wall in question is solid, then injecting a DPC will not prevent penetrating damp to the brickwork above the DPC line. Rake out and point-up in a S&L&C mix.Keep the mix soft. Dont "waterproof"the brickwork.

I note that the Safeguard Co. that Masterbuilder referred us to, "rubbish" the practice of pressure silicon injections, albeit for their own purpose, ie. to claim that their own "revolutionary new" chemical process is a better solution.

Assuming suspended floor(s):
1. then strip all wallpaper.
2. Skirtings are often a better indicator of damp than plaster, therefore, test skirtings with your moisture meter.
3. Remove a length of skirting and examine the back for decay.
4. If the wall in question carries joist tails then examine the timber for decay.

To repeat myself: merely render up suspect areas.The render will fail in time - a long time. But chemical/silicon injections wont even begin to succeed given actual structural conditions.

If i am wrong please show me where i am wrong and how?

 

[oilman]

If i were u madsey, i would click on the link i gave earlier in this thread (p.3) and this includes a 20 page guide to damp which you can download (pdf format)

A lot of rubbish has been written in this thread by people who have no practical experience of dealing with damp and who've ruined this thread by posting pointless and irrelevant info, without offering a practical solution to your original question, meaning you have to trawl through a lot of garbage thats been written, unable to see the wood for the trees.

Reminds me of the proud mother watching her son on his passing out parade "Look at my little Johnny, he's the only one in step".

All the other posters here speak with one voice (more or less) they have a point and it costs very little to try it out.

 

[legs-akimbo]

While I have not read all of this thread I would just like to make a point or two. Firstly in master builders favour I will say that treatments do work and many very successfully, but as many have stated covering damp by whatever method is only covering up what will always be present, I dont know if M.B. has taken this point on board as I say I have not read all posts.
Take for example the tanking of a cellar, and here I take issue with M.B on the statement of applying a 3;1 render coat and "then" a slurry. Not correct.
An insoluble tanking liquid solution of whichever product is to be used is the first application as this is its predominant value ... the retention of damp ingress, all a 3;1 render would do is rot away over time, taking the application on top with it obviously.
A correct tanking render method is to start with a bonding coat 1;1 mix plus waterproofer, very wet application followed by a 1and a half to 1 mix plus waterproofer after4 to 6 hours unscratched. Then a scud coat of 2;1 and lastly a 3;1 floating coat. Of course you are simply masking the damp but done correctly it is masked permanantly which is the crux of the matter, M.B. you will face some future problems if you continue in this vain they may not materialise yet but they will. You may argue that you have had no problems but if anyone was to take time out and compare your method to the recommended procedure then cowboy builder would be a more worthy title.

 

[masterbuilder]

well legs akimbo, i was just giving madsey a procedure for his particular problem, i don't recall giving advice for tanking a damp basement but i did say that we have carried out work to vaulted cellars near the seafront where different conditions apply because of the condensation problems.
info on this method can be found on the link i gave on page 3.
you might stop the damp with your method for tanking a cellar, but you will have condensation problems instead.
if you want to start being abusive with my handle, why don't you go and amuse yourself elsewhere with something more appropriate, like go and dig a hole or do something non taxing to the brain

 

[oilman]

if you want to start being abusive .........

And what would you know about being abusive? Perhaps when the hole you suggested has been dug, you could arrange to fall into it.
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