Decided on the powermax - a few questions

[NewOrder]

My brain is aching from all this research but just before I buy it I have a few more questions.

I am buying the full kit with bell box etc, so the old alarm system will be ripped out.

This is what I will probably buy.

http://www.quick2fit.co.uk/module/page-2/shop_action-view_product/product_id-11/category-43

Here my questions

1) I want to buy the powermax+ I will use the plug transformer for now but may ask the electrician to hardware it when we get the house rewired/upgraded.

2) How likely is interference? I know next door and the house next to that have a wired alarm. About 10ft to to left there is a bigger house converted into an office, they have an ADT alarm but have no idea what type of alarm it is.

Is there a DIY method of checking for interference? If I am installing wireless computer equipment I always do a site survey and apart of that I use WIFI Analyser, is there a cheap device I could buy which would help me check for problems on the 800Mhz (forget the exact frequency) system?

3) If I place the control panel upstairs out of the way won't I also need an additional keypad for the hall such as this?

http://www.quick2fit.co.uk/module/page-2/shop_action-view_product/product_id-61/category-35

There is three people living in this house, but four people have access to it, so there needs to be a central way of setting/arming it rather than relying on the key fobs.


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[Alarm]

1, Fine. But do get it done.
2, Less if the panel used the "agility hopping method".
And not really.
3, Use the radio fobs if you do not want a RKP.


As I said use fobs.

 

[NewOrder]

Thanks do the fobs have a bleeper or something built in? I am thinking I could try the fobs at first and then if people can't get used to it buy the keypad at an extra date.

I did cost up a wired system but it only ended up being £160 cheaper but it would involve spending an entire day lifting floorboards up etc. The existing alarm was put in as a favour and as a result all the wiring was hidden under carpets and junctions showing etc.

Just another question and this one may be a bit daft, the control panel will go in the spare bedroom (my workshop) but people do occasionaly still sleep in it, is it possible to disable the sound from this unit but keep the internal sounder in case of an alarm? Or I guess I could just disable the internal speaker and wire a cheap wired sounder next to it.

 

[Alarm]

RADIO FOBS.
The clue was in the name.

Yes the "spoken" commands could be disabled but the speaker still activate in alarm.

 

[bernardgreen]

I did cost up a wired system but it only ended up being £160 cheaper but it would involve spending an entire day lifting floorboards up etc.

Excluding the cable the components of a wired system will always be cheaper than the components of wireless system of equal function and quality. A terminal block for wires is much cheaper than a radio transceiver module.

With a wireless system on a frequency permitted by the general licence issued for burglar alarms you may at some time and maybe sooner than later have to spend a day sorting out problems of interference from a new system installed nearby. There is concern in the industry that the next allocation of bandwidth to mobile phone services will allow equipment that will adversely affect equipment on frequencies around 850 MHz.

General licence. All radio transmitters have to be licenced. Burglar alarms, car keys and many other low power devices are licenced under a common licence which allows the sale and use of equipment on a restricted range of frequencies and output power and percentage of time transmitting. It is the responsibility of the system's owner/user to ensure that their receivers and system act properly even if there are other transmitters in the area whose transmissions are also being received by the owner/users receivers. No action will ever be taken against any general licence transmitter that complies with the frequency and power restrictions of the licence.