Dimmer Question Again (sorry)

[JJ10]

Hi, have bought 2 dimmers (master and slave) to go in a 2 gang 2 way setup.

Have been a good chap and taken note of how everything was before I started meddling.


this is the wiring diagram that comes with the kit.

Problem is, my existing set up has L1 L2 and Common marked up on the switches, and I don't have the knowledge to match this up to the
'LOAD' 'LIVE' 'S' 'N' 'Squiggle with line through' terminology that comes on the install directions.

I have Yellow,blue,black,red wires, I know where they go in the old switches (L1 , L2, Common) but no real clue how to tie them up to the new one. Help !

 

[securespark]

Does this help? From the same web page.....

Using Master and Slave Units in 2-Way and Intermediate Circuits
2-way lighting circuits have two switches (intermediate circuits have 3 or more switches) turning the same lights on and off from 2 (or more) locations (eg. at the top and bottom of the stairs). In suitable circuits one of the switches will have a live wire connected. Replace this switch with a Master Dimmer and the other switch(es) with Slave Units to allow dimming from more than one location. Note: If your 2-way or intermediate circuit does not have three direct connections between the switches (as in the diagram) the circuit must be rewired using conventional "2-way" wire (red, blue, yellow & earth).
Master Dimmer: Connect the live wire to the terminal marked "Liveo" and the "load" wire to the terminal marked " ".
Slave Units: Must be wired to the Master unit as follows: "Liveo" to "Liveo", "S" to "S" and " " to " ".

 

[JJ10]

If I knew which was live etc then I would have been able to follow the diagram and wouldn't have a problem.

The problem is, all I have to go on are the colours of the wires and the fact that one colour used to connect to L1, one to L2 and one to 'common' etc etc.

What I don't know is whether L1 maps to Live or L2 maps to S or what the heck each wire does.

If I know what each wire in the wall actually is, it will be a piece of cake to connect my new kit.

Problem is , the old switch and new switch are using different terminology - ie . one uses L1, L2 and Common and the other other uses Live, S, squiggle, Load etc etc.

On each wall I have 2 yellow, 2 blue, 1 black and 3 red. I dunno what does what (yet)

See where I am coming from ?

 

[BR]

do you have a continuity tester / multimeter?

 

[JJ10]

No

 

[BR]

Use this:
common = live
l1 = load
l2 = S

now state briefly what wires you have in each box (excl. any earth's) and how they were connected to the orignal switchs.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No

Those dimmer switches cost at least £19 a pair, and you won't spend a fraction of that on an essential tool to help you fit them properly and safely?

 

[breezer]

It "tickles me" when some one asks a poster do the have a meter, for the answer is 99% NO, gentlemen you forget this is a DIY forum. I know that a meter is very useful but checking things as we do is not really for the diy person.(even continuity)

I would also say that some people, NO ONE IN PARTICULAR should not be allowed to have a screwdriver let alone attempt diy.

you all seem to forget that for the likes of you and me changing a light switch is easy. Most people seem to think electrical work is "easy", it is if you make a note or drawing first, but how many people do? (not many) then they come on here and ask for help.

Yes, its not our fault they got it wrong. but lets try and be nice to those who ask for help, sometimes the words "this is not a job for the diy person" should be used more often.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Well it shouldn't be 99% no, it should be 100% yes.

Perfectly serviceable DMMs are as cheap as chips these days, to say nothing of voltsticks or neon testers, and not having one is as appalling as using the point of a knife to undo screws because you can't be bothered to buy a screwdriver.

There really is absolutely no excuse for not having the basic tools that you need to do the jobs you want, in any field. If you want to service your car, you will need a decent set of spanners and sockets. If you want to cook food, you will need kitchen equipment. If you want to decorate your house you'll need paintbrushes, rollers, pasting table, stepladders etc. If you want to look after your garden you'll need a spade and a fork, and a lawnmower, and a hedgetrimmer or shears, and secateurs etc.

And if you want to do things to your electrics you need more than just a screwdriver to remove wiring accessories. Having some kind of voltage indicating device is more important than the screwdriver - you can always use the end of a knife instead of that

JJ10 said "If I knew which was live etc then I would have been able to follow the diagram and wouldn't have a problem." but he hasn't thought to provide himself with the means of identifying which conductors are live. Pretty shameful, IMHO.

 

[yankey-sparky]

Perfectly serviceable DMMs are as cheap as chips these days, to say nothing of voltsticks or neon testers, and not having one is as appalling as using the point of a knife to undo screws because you can't be bothered to buy a screwdriver.

I'm going to have to agree with BAS on this one. When performing electrical work, even DIY work, a cheap multimeter is an essential tool. Electricity is invisible, and you need some way to "see" it if you're going to work safely or troubleshoot a problem you have along the way.

Sure, you could do wiring without a multimeter. You could also run a tablesaw without eye protection. But you wouldn't catch me doing either of those things.

 

[breezer]

i think you are missing the point, I am saying that i think that a meter is too hard for the "average" diy person to use, so if it needs a meter then the average diy person should not be doing the job.

For the next bit i know nothing .

Think about it, a cheap dmm shows numbers has a knob to turn and several places to plug the leads into, i mean thats such a lot of choices its too difficult, and what do all them numbers mean anyway?

________________________________

see my point?

i know you can learn how to use it but there is the saftey aspect of it too, a table saw as was mentioned every one knows you dont touch the blade when its moving but a meter thats always safe? but suppose its set up to read current and some joker puts it across live and neutral............

as i said some jiobs should NOT be done by the diy person

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Well - I would propose that anybody who can't or won't read the instructions of a multimeter and learn which sockets to use, and what the obscure symbols like "V", "A" and <Greek letter omega> mean shouldn't have anything to do with electrics apart from turning lights on and off and plugging things in and out.

Seriously, if you really cannot learn to use a multimeter, which is easier than programming many video recorders I've encountered, then DIY electrical work is not for you, and you shouldn't even think you can replace a switch or install a new light fitting.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I suppose for the seriously instrumentally challenged there's always something like these:

 

[MANDATE]

Hi JJ10,
The modern method of wiring a two way switching circuit uses two 'two way' switches. One of these acts as a 'master' and the other as a 'slave'. The difference is that the 'master' as well as being coupled to the 'slave' is also connected to switch cable.
The wiring should be as follows.
Master two way switch.
Red live to L1
Black switched live to L2. These two wires in one cable from rose.

Yellow wire runs from L1 to L1 on slave switch
Blue wire runs from L2 to L2 on slave switch
Red wire runs from Comm to Comm on slave switch. These three wires are also in one cable between switches.

The varylight system is similar but as you know the markings are a little different
Master varylight dimmer
Red live to 'live'
Black switched live 'load' / " " / squiggle arrow.

Yellow wire runs from 'live' to 'live' on slave dimmer
Blue wire runs from 'load' to 'load' on slave dimmer
Red wire runs from 'S' to 'S' on slave dimmer.

There are two red wires and you need the incoming live, but you should be able to see which one belongs to the 2 core + earth as against the 3 core + earth
So on this basis 'S' = comm
'live' = L1
and 'load' " " squiggle/arrow = L2.
Hope this clarifys the situation

 

[JJ10]

Hi , thanks for all the posts, I have made some progress - the master is all working nicely. I just need to read and study and think a bit, then will tackle the slave (not had much chance to look at it in daylight hours so far).

Will add a post here one way or another.