Dimmer Switch query

[NeverMindThat]

My living room has what I understand to be a 2 gang push dimmer switch for the downlighters in the ceiling and two wall uplights (1 switch for the downlighters, one for the uplighters).

Recently, all the downlighters stopped working at once. Testing showed the bulbs to be fine, so I investigated the dimmer switch. I imediately noticed that the push switch which relates to the downlights does not "click" when pushed in in the same way the other switch does.

I took the dimmer apart (disabling the electricity supply first ofc) but couldnt see anything obviously wrong. As I put it mostly back together (enough to be safe but without re-attaching the faceplate fully), I turned back on the power and the lights and dimmer switch worked (making the expected clicking noise).

Unfortunately this didnt last long (10 pushes) and it soon went back to its previous state.

This to me sounds like some kind of mechanical fault and I'll need to replace the entire switch - does that seem right?



As a separate question, when replacing the switch is it important to get the same brand in order to ensure the faceplate screws line up properly or is this generally a standard distance/positioning?


Thanks in advance

 

[vibrobullit407]

Sounds like a replacement dimmer is needed. You can prove this by using a normal rocker switch and see if this works the lights. The screw positions will be the same. Just make sure you get the correctly rated dimmer for the loading of the lights.

 

[Taylortwocities]

You may just find that the button on the dimmer is broken inside. Sometimes that means that the button cannot be pushed down far enough to operate the switch.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

As a separate question, when replacing the switch is it important to get the same brand in order to ensure the faceplate screws line up properly or is this generally a standard distance/positioning?
Thanks in advance

Some dimmers may have terminals in different places, this could well be an issue if the cable lengths within switch back box are short, but buying the same make could not for definite help, as they do tend to change things around a little, unless the dimmer is quite new. The main thing would be get the rating of the dimmer right, so it will operate the load on it.

 

[NeverMindThat]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. Is there an easy way to tell the rating of the existing dinner?

 

[Luckyphil]

The Dimmer will have a Wattage Rating on it ie 250watts or 400watts if you are running say 4x50watt Lamps , I`d plump for the 400watt Model , I prefer to run the Dimmer on NOT the full wattage so to speak

Lucky

 

[NeverMindThat]

The Dimmer will have a Wattage Rating on it ie 250watts or 400watts if you are running say 4x50watt Lamps , I`d plump for the 400watt Model , I prefer to run the Dimmer on NOT the full wattage so to speak

Lucky

Thanks - is there any downside to "overestimating" and getting a higher rated dimmer (apart from potentially higher power usage?)

I noticed that each individual light has (in the ceiling cavity) some kind of black box relating to the dimmer wired to it (says dimmer on it - maybe the dimmer is 'wireless?' is there such a thing?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

There are indeed.

It's photo time...

 

[johnnykc]

My living room has what I understand to be a 2 gang push dimmer switch for the downlighters in the ceiling and two wall uplights (1 switch for the downlighters, one for the uplighters).

Recently, all the downlighters stopped working at once. Testing showed the bulbs to be fine, so I investigated the dimmer switch. I imediately noticed that the push switch which relates to the downlights does not "click" when pushed in in the same way the other switch does.

I took the dimmer apart (disabling the electricity supply first ofc) but couldnt see anything obviously wrong. As I put it mostly back together (enough to be safe but without re-attaching the faceplate fully), I turned back on the power and the lights and dimmer switch worked (making the expected clicking noise).

Unfortunately this didnt last long (10 pushes) and it soon went back to its previous state.

This to me sounds like some kind of mechanical fault and I'll need to replace the entire switch - does that seem right?



As a separate question, when replacing the switch is it important to get the same brand in order to ensure the faceplate screws line up properly or is this generally a standard distance/positioning?


Thanks in advance

Out of interest...has your dimmer got a hexagonal fixing nut that holds the module on the plate?