Dodgy Cooker/Oven Electrics

[hohingday]

Hi,

I have recently moved into a new place and have noticed my hob and oven are connected into a plug behind one of the kitchen units left to the oven about 1.5 foot from the floor.

Untitled

• hohingday
• 23 Oct 2014
• 1

It looks like a very bad DIY job and I was wondering if I could just get an electrician to recess it back into the wall and leave it where it was or should it be relocated to the counter?

 

[AndyPRK]

Probably best to leave it so that a cooker connection unit could be fitted easily if a bigger oven is fitted in the future.

Should be ok if a decent brand socket has been used.
I assume it looks ok when the plugs are pulled out?

 

[ekmdgrf]

Wow, what a work of art. Is that right hand plug on a piece of T&E too?

I'm assuming the hob and oven are electric and not gas with electric ignition? Do you know the current draw or power of the oven & hob?

Do you if it's on it's own circuit or is it wired to the kitchen sockets along with your toaster, kettle, steamer, bread makers, sous vide bath, etc?

 

[hohingday]

To be honest I havent touched the plugs as I am worried the whole thing might just fall apart!!!!

Yes the hob and oven are electric, I don't have access to a manual so I am not sure of the power...

I've checked from the CU and it seems to be running on its own circuit with a 30amp fuse.

I assume it will not be hard to get it put in properly, but the main concern is it allowed to be in that position?

You should see the rest of his handiwork, nightmare!

 

[ekmdgrf]

Just hold the socket as you extract the plug and you shouldn't have a problem.

I would check the power rating of the appliances (it should be written on a plate/label on the back). That will give you an idea of what current we're dealing with. In theory it's less than 13A per appliance as the plug should be fused. I'd check the the fuses in the plug just in case some asshat has replaced it with a 9mm blank or some such. Also I'm led to believe that some of those cheaper double sockets really don't like pulling 13A on both sockets at the same time.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is that right hand plug on a piece of T&E too?

Your monitor has fallen over - it's the top one.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I would check the power rating of the appliances (it should be written on a plate/label on the back).

It is often on the side of the casing, visible when you open the door.

 

[sparkwright]

What it really needs is a double 'Converta' socket.

This will get rid of the gap, make the socket flush, and also leaves a single recessed box still in the wall so a cooker outlet can be fitted if ever needed in the future.

No mess, no agg.

If you're getting an electrician, tell him double 'Converta' socket.

 

[GarethW]

...the hob and oven are electric

So have you got an electric hob or a gas hob with electric ignition ?

 

[AndyPRK]

What it really needs is a double 'Converta' socket.

This will get rid of the gap, make the socket flush, and also leaves a single recessed box still in the wall so a cooker outlet can be fitted if ever needed in the future.

No mess, no agg.

If you're getting an electrician, tell him double 'Converta' socket.

or know as a single to dual patress box

 

[Steve]

The electric hob, if its 4 rings, really shouldn't be plugged in with a 13 amp plug. It may be capable of drawing up to 30 amps. My advice to you would be to ensure only two rings are used at once until this is sorted.

Most single ovens are however only capable of drawing 13 amps, BUT they may pull this all at once with only one element on - the oven alone may draw full power.

Another thing to consider is that most double sockets are rated to a TOTAL of 13 amps, not 26 amps. Therefore you should consider that having the hob on with the oven even taking consideration of the points above to limit consumption, could lead to a theoretical overload of the double socket.

But many manufacturers (MK most notably) test their sockets now to be capable of handling 20 amps upwards for a sustained period.

In short, get a spark to sort it out. What I'd do is to have a cooker outlet for the hob (with the correct sized cable, not 1mm lighting cable as per the picture), with a single socket or FCU next to it for the oven.

 

[JohnW2]

Another thing to consider is that most double sockets are rated to a TOTAL of 13 amps, not 26 amps. Therefore you should consider that having the hob on with the oven even taking consideration of the points above to limit consumption, could lead to a theoretical overload of the double socket. ... But many manufacturers (MK most notably) test their sockets now to be capable of handling 20 amps upwards for a sustained period.

The situation is,indeed, pretty confused/confusing. However, I understand that BS1363 requires all double sockets to pass a temperature-rise test at 20A (slightly strangely, 14A through out outlet and 6A through the other, IIRC).

The impression I get is that most people probably believe that up to 20A is probably OK but, as you imply, would not normally advocate more than about 13A total.

Why on earth double sockets which cannot safely supply 2 x 13A loads (which is what the vast majority of the general public seem to believe to be the case) were ever allowed is a different matter!

Kind Regards, John

 

[deadshort]

What it really needs is a double 'Converta' socket.

This will get rid of the gap, make the socket flush, and also leaves a single recessed box still in the wall so a cooker outlet can be fitted if ever needed in the future.

No mess, no agg.

If you're getting an electrician, tell him double 'Converta' socket.

or know as a single to dual patress box

Which 'Converta' socket would you use ? All the ones I've used would heat up faster than the oven!

Kind regards,

DS

 

[ericmark]

There are hobs designed for 13A This one is an example but most require more.

The label on the plug with twin and earth does seem discoloured so I would question if suitable.

The first question is does correcting it fall to you to do? If your a tenant then before complaining to landlord you need to be sure of your facts and have worked out a way of approaching the subject. It could be just informing them the plugs are getting hot and say your worried about a fire resulting.

If the correction is down to you then you can go ahead and do what you want.

The 13A fuse like any fuse will get hot. We have to get rid of that heat and all 13A sockets should be in free air to keep them cool. In the back of a cupboard is clearly not ideal. A fuse connection unit (FCU) will in general dissipate heat better than a plug, but when the back box is mounted as yours is not so sure it would in your case.

Plugs are some times put inside oven carcases but then often the ovens cooling fan.