Dot and Dab vs Proper Render

[Twincam1986]

Bear with me, as I don't know very much about plastering (as is probably apparent!). I'm currently renovating my 1930s house and have just had the living room/dining room knocked through (RSJ installed). I've also just taken all of the original plaster off the walls to get re-done as it was in poor condition after removing the wallpaper.

My builder gave me the number of a retired plasterer he knows, who came round the other day to give me a price. He said it would be best to dot and dab rather than use render as the walls were originally, but reading on here there seems to be quite a bit of negativity towards this method. Why is this? I know people often mention not being able to fix to it properly, but surely if you use slightly longer fixings you'll be in brick anyway? Is rendering far more expensive? I'm just intrigued as to why it's considered a poorer method and so which would be best for me (I have tried searching this, but couldn't find much). The walls are brick cavity (well, the 2 external walls, the internal are solid brick).

 

[1john]

It feels cheap when you tap the wall, it's quicker to do though and can be decorated sooner, the walls also feel warmer.

 

[Twincam1986]

but is it actually cheaper than rendering it?

 

[roughcaster]

It's always advisable to render "scratch coat" all old brick walls first, if you're going to dot and dab onto them, more especially, the "external ones". Use "waterproofer" in the mix.
Me,,,,, i'd never recommend dot and dab to anyone,, i'd sooner sit looking at bare brickwork.
If i had to use plasterboard, i'd dpm the brickwork if suspect, batten/insulate, and then board/skim.

 

[Twincam1986]

but why? is there any proper downside other than it feeling cheap when you knock on the wall?

 

[1john]

I see nowt much wrong with it myself.

 

[NickB_99]

but is it actually cheaper than rendering it?

Depends.
Render materials alone will likely be cheaper.
The cost saving for D&D will come in when considering the 'full package' of the Pro's time also. Rendering is more labour intensive.

I'm with John & R/C.
I'm renovating my place at the moment (was float&set originally) and am keeping with like-for-like.

All in, I expect the float & set to last far longer than the p/board.
D&D plasterboard has only limited adhesion to the wall (where the dabs are) and is less prone to surviving knocks.
Only my opinion tho.

 

[roughcaster]

but why? is there any proper downside other than it feeling cheap when you knock on the wall?

Depends what you're looking for really. With dot and dab, you're just sticking plasterboard onto bare bricks/blocks, that's all. In the future, you might want to run some new cables, or fix some new sockets etc, very awkward to do with little or no space behind the plasterboard. Ive seen sheets of d/d p/board coming loose in places,,, bouncing when you push against them. They have to be drilled, plugged and screwed back into place. If you tile onto dot and dabbed plasterboard and later on you want to change the tiles, it'll probably destroy the sheets of plasterboard just taking the tiles off, (especially the flimsy plasterboard you get nowadays), you'll then have to prep the wall and re-dot/dab. Fixing cupboards, shelves etc,,, to dot and dab as you said you need longer fixings. You also can't use foil backed insulated p/board to dot and dab. As i mentioned earlier, on older brick walls etc you'll need to scratch them first,, so there are "in my opinion", many downsides to d/d. I wouldn't use it or recommend it to others,,, but then others may swear by it. To me though, the only "upside" to d/d is, it's quick,,, but,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[1john]

Of course, and not forgetting, batten and board, which is my favorite, you get a cavity for concealing cables and pipes, you can true to wall up as close to perfect as you can manage and can use foil backed boards. Downsside, you lose about an inch of room.

 

[roughcaster]

Of course, and not forgetting, batten and board, which is my favorite, you get a cavity for concealing cables and pipes, you can true to wall up as close to perfect as you can manage and can use foil backed boards. Downsside, you lose about an inch of room.

Which i would go for John,, no problem with that method at all.

 

[Micilin]

For me , the clue is in the title of the OP

DnD does have some advantages, but everything you do is a 'trade off'.

With any boarding system you have to be mindful of where all units/fixings will go , not just now but in the future.

We usually have rads in the same place for ever, skirtings usually stay in the same spot . Hanging a picture with the right fixing can go anywhere

Kitchens and bathrooms get changed rarely - but when they do, you need a proper bacground to fix to

Shelving, units etc also need something a bit more solid.

 

[keyplayer]

But don't forget Rigifix fixings. A bit pricy but I've used them a few times and found them excellent.

 

[spc]

At this moment in time im renovating and 260 year old fen cottage. now its cold and damp and has 9 inch solid walls. I love and work with lime all the time, but as i needed to retain heat i have opted ( ) for using stud to form a cavity. My point, I am using DB boards, they are about a pound a board dearer but have alot more guts to them and they reduce the hollow echoey sound you get in a new house. Food for thought

 

[Richard C]

At this moment in time im renovating and 260 year old fen cottage. now its cold and damp and has 9 inch solid walls. I love and work with lime all the time, but as i needed to retain heat i have opted ( ) for using stud to form a cavity. My point, I am using DB boards, they are about a pound a board dearer but have alot more guts to them and they reduce the hollow echoey sound you get in a new house. Food for thought

Hope you’ve allowed for ventillation & installed a suitable vapour barrier behind those boards!

 

[spc]

dont be silly, im a complete novice