Downlights wiring - flex v t&e?

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I'm in two minds... One, I've got these sealed units now so might as well fit..... Two, sealed units seem like a very silly and idea....
 
Arr ok the ones I use are knightsbridge they require a 65mm cutout, was going to suggest you can change to these when yours eventually fail.

Or the may not I've got 6 Lap integrated downlights in my garage and they've been fine for over 5 years now.
 
These are the ones I fit

 
And I've got some integrated Knightsbridge flush ceiling lights and one has failed in about 3 months
 
ALUSSO LED Downlight Ceiling 230V, 5W 350lm Ultra Slim Recessed Ceiling Lights, Warm White 3000K Non-Dimmable Spot Lights, Cutout Ø75-85mm, IP44 Waterproof for Kitchen Bathroom Hallway Soffit, 6 Pack [Energy Class F]
These seem to be what you have, and the pictures do not show the connections, it does say UKCA but a very poor lumen per watt output at 70 for a non smart, non dimmable unit. But they are cheap at £20, if fitted in an enclosure they would be permitted, I think rather poor not to have an enclosure, even the connector to convert g5.3 to gu10 comes with a connector like this 1698968221142.pngbut the adaptor cost more than your lights, 1698968389210.pngso being so cheap what do you expect? As @flameport says these 1698968665787.png are likely the best option at £2.39 each, it means in the future are wiring done at ground level.

I would have agreed to

Avoid sealed units is my advice
however my wife bought a cheap outside integral lamp at £4 and I must admit it is the best of all my carriage lamps outside and I have 5 of them. The only down side assuming you buy proper connectors is if they fail you have a large hole in the ceiling larger than used with most MR16 equivalent down lights.
 
Thanks all. I'm going to put this one down to experience and buy some decent ones for bathrooms. I'll use a couple of these (with enclosures) in walk in wardrobes where I've got long term access to the unit from above.
 

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