Drilling two scary holes today - any tips?

hi all

elbows yuk hate them especially push fit , machine bends all the way no joins =no leaks and no frictional loss the way ahead is bend it lol

nice work though mate looks good
 
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What capacity is that cistern?

There is a minimum stated in the MI.

Hope you've got no teenagers showering at home or they are gonna drain that cistern fairly quick.

Ted
 
hi all

elbows yuk hate them especially push fit , machine bends all the way no joins =no leaks and no frictional loss the way ahead is bend it lol

nice work though mate looks good

Thanks.

So no push fit, even copper / brass? Old school eh? Get with the programme, grandad! ;)

Do you think flow loss through smooth elbows like that is going to be significant for a 1.5 bar shower on 22mm pipework? Problem is it's the only way it could be done.

What capacity is that cistern?

There is a minimum stated in the MI.

Hope you've got no teenagers showering at home or they are gonna drain that cistern fairly quick.

Ted

50 gal, only two of us in the house.
 
there should be no need to fit any flange to the HWT, just tee off the hot water outlet and fetch the pipe stright down to the pump.

Depends if you like your water full of air, and want to replace your pump on a regular basis. :rolleyes:

There a 5 methods of conecting to the HWT in the stuart turner fitting instructions, only 1 of them requires putting a hole in the tank. I am not saying it wrong, just not needed, especialy if you are worried about doing it (drilling the whole).

50g tank is fine, you will run out of hot water before you empty the CWT (as long as it refils at a reasonable rate)
 
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So no push fit, even copper / brass? Old school eh? Get with the programme, grandad! ;

50 gal, only two of us in the house.

My grandad used to measure tank volumes in gallons!

Even my father used litres before me!

I have a photo of my father. I always immagine that Griggs looks like that but he is probably nothing like him at all!
 
img8235z.jpg

Hi.

Keep up with the good work.

Other thing, the CWSC has part of support base, where the new pipe connector is, missing. It should have a platform more than 150mm from cistern wall all around.

Dan.
 
Thanks Mr. W. No I haven't yet fixed the leaky connection. I had a plumber round yesterday and he said at least one in five times the washer on the other side has disintegrated and falls into the tank when the joint is removed, at which point it's a few hundred for a replacement cylinder.

Absolute tosh.

Mr. W.
 
hello its your grandad lol

im only 40 lmao anyway judging from your pics i reckon you could have bent them in but each to there own as for frictional loss, a loss is a loss right and the less joints you have the less likely its going to leak food for thought mate

cheers for the humour master luke lol
 
hello its your grandad lol

im only 40 lmao anyway judging from your pics i reckon you could have bent them in but each to there own as for frictional loss, a loss is a loss right and the less joints you have the less likely its going to leak food for thought mate

cheers for the humour master luke lol

Hell man, how did you ever manage to post that. You have laughed out loud (twice) and laughed you ar5e off once.

Suppose it explains why your post reads like a 3 year old, you idiot.
 
hello its your grandad lol

im only 40 lmao anyway judging from your pics i reckon you could have bent them in but each to there own as for frictional loss, a loss is a loss right and the less joints you have the less likely its going to leak food for thought mate

cheers for the humour master luke lol

The picture above shows an elbow that could have been bent instead, I agree...but going through the floor to the airing cupboard...not really.

Anyway the techflange arrived today:

imag0192k.jpg


All I've actually managed so far is to cut the insulation away from the ouside of the cylinder and mark for the hole saw. Tomorrow is d-day!
 
I've done it, utterly terrifying, pics to follow!

Quick question: can I use plastic pipe inserts on a compression joint (15mm)? It's so I can run PEX to the shower mixer! Thanks!
 
Here's some detail on what happened guys. I must say I really appreciate all your help.

The flange arrived and I fitted the lever valve beforehand, so if I dropped it it wouldn't fall through the cylinder:
img8242k.jpg


I drilled the hole, my hands were shaking ;). I read and re-read the instructions and followed them to the letter. The only problem I had was that the supplied hole saw was poor. Blunt, teeth wildly off centre, one tooth sticking out at 45 degrees. So I braved my 3 year old hole saw set and it went through no problems.

I was concerned that the copper was a different colour nearer the seem...not sure whether this is due to the extra heat there or because it's thicker, or what. At one point the cylinder looked like it was buckling under the pressure I was exerting, so I backed off and used slightly higher revs.
img8243e.jpg


Thankfully the biscuit stayed on the drill bit. Even if it makes no difference, I'd have been peed off if the copper disc had fallen in.
img8245b.jpg


Flange fitted:
img8246.jpg


Close up of flange:
img8247j.jpg


Very close-up of flange, note the red dot so you know where the upward bend is pointing inside the cylinder:
img8248f.jpg


Pipe work, not sure on how correct that run of pex to the mixer is:
img8249d.jpg


Pipe work:
img8251.jpg


Shower side, something else that cropped up was that the original muppet installer also failed to screw the shower mixer mount into the wall. The mixer was hanging off the compression copper and the silicone on the silver discs that cover the pipe holes:
img8252m.jpg


So tomorrow it's off to B&Q to spend more money on some diamond drill bits for the tiles.

Thanks again for all the help.
 
So tomorrow it's off to B&Q to spend more money on some diamond drill bits for the tiles.

You can use a masonary bit to drill the tiles with no hammer action set on the drill

Thanks, my masonry bits are budget and poor. I'm just going to get the right tool for the job, can't be doing with re-tiling tomorrow.

Comments on the plastic please? I'm thinking copper would look better, no doubt, but is it worth it?
 

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