Dry-lining over Woodchip

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Morning all,

Quick query regarding dry lining.
We have a late 1800s cottage that has suffered all of the worst years of household decorating fashions. Our front bedroom has the dreaded woodchip and, after it took 2 of us 4 solid days (12-14 hour shifts) removing it from the much smaller kitchen, and destroying the plaster beneath; I've decided that I'm going to dry-line the walls with plasterboard.
My plan is to rip skirting boards off and using masonry nails or screws, attach the boards to the wall - through the Woodchip.
As far as I'm concerned, it's not bad practice to do that. My concern is that the walls are 'a little out' by which I mean it's like living in a house of mirrors at the fair. One wall is about 2 inches out vertically and rather lumpy, then there's the chimney breast which is bowed out, so much so that someone made a mitre cut on the skirting board in the middle so it would sit flush.
Other than putting batons in or stripping the paper then wet plastering (I'm aware of both options but hate the concept of both), can I do anything? Or will the natural flex of the boards be able to handle my curvy masonry?
 
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Insulated board using foam as adhesive?
Hammer twist fixings through?
Solid walls?

I scrap the woodchip off dry with wallpaper scraper.

Wet it with spray bottle.
Never use steamer.
You can use water with a little wallpaper paste in them drape plastic over for 12 hours to soften woodchip. Always scrape the chips a bit today allow the water to get through
 
The walls are solid. I considered using hammer fixings through the board.
Presumably if I used adhesive directly onto the paper, I'd also need mechanical fixings as, despite the paper holding fast for 50+ years, I'm not confident sticking pb to it.

I've tried everything, this stuff is hell. I've steamed, used undiluted wallpaper stripper, everything I can think of and it just scrapes off as insultingly small pieces.
 
Be fine if you use mechanical fixing along with adhesive. Might be better with foam vs board adhesive to stop cold spots or damp.
It's worth asking someone that's knows about this for correct procedures for your property so you may need to pay for advise but get a material spec. Do the wrong thing could be costly
 
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If the wall is out and bumpy as well, why not just use battens? you can level these and either infill with insulation or just board over.
 

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