Electric For New Shed

Big_Spark said:
If you use SWA then the Building Earth can be taken to the Shed as your simply installaing a sub-main supply, this is regardless of the supply type from the DNO.
BUT if the supply is PME, the ECPs in the shed, if present, must be bonded using an appropriate sized conductor from the house, and therefore become part of the house's equipotential zone. So I understand.
 
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Crafty, so long as the armouring of the cable is properly locked into the glands, then the earthing will comply, however in such an installation I would personally use a 3 core cable as you have a guaranteed Earth connection and the extra cost is pennies.
 
Big Spark,

Don't think it reasonable to tar all of Screwfix's products with the 'cheap rubbish' brush. I will agree, hoever, that his selected product is best used as a door stop rather than connected to electrical supplies!

TTC
 
Why use a 30mA DC sensing RCD or was it a typo? Am I correct in reading this as a type B RCD?
 
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Spark123 said:
Why use a 30mA DC sensing RCD or was it a typo? Am I correct in reading this as a type B RCD?

No typo, DC sensing will give the best response in the event of a fault or dodgy equipment leaking to Earth. Type B would mean it was an RCBO which would be over the top for it's location as it does not need to provide overcurrent protection.
 
Nay, I was referring to type B RCD as in BS EN 61008/9:
Type AC provide protection against AC earth faults
Type A provide protection against AC earth faults with pulsating DC components
Type B provide protection against DC fault currents
Type S are time delayed.
 
I think he means SPUR but the you knew that Breezer,I thought this was a advice forum not extract the urine forum.
 
Sorry 123, I misread your question.. :oops:

However what I meant in my original comment stands..I simply referred to it as a DC sensing RCD if he opted for 30mA. Remember for compliance it cannot be a Type S due to the sockets supplying outside equipment.The only way to use a Type S would be to use a 100mA and then use 30mA RCBO for compliance and discrimination purposes..

To be honest I have only ever referred to them as DC sensing RCD's, and if you ask for that in a wholesaler, it's what you get..ask for a Type B and they will scratch their heads..or give you an RCBO!!.. :confused:
 
:LOL:
You mean like an RCBO with an electronic RCD? I think these come under type A but am not 100% certian, I know D-LOC usually trips them. I agree, I wouldn't use a type S (Selective) for supplementary protection against direct contact. Don't know the relevence of using an RCD as a main switch if the supply is from a TN and the efli is low enough to meet MCB disconnection times. I don't do much ordering nowadays as I work for a large company, we have people to do that for us :cool: (then we send the wrong stuff back) :LOL:
 
Spark, RCBO's have their own BS number and are classified differently to RCD's. An RCD is totally different from an RCBO.

The Type rating on an RCBO refers to the MCB part of the device and generally these are Type C, although a coupleof manufacturers do produce Type B RCBO's, although these can be difficult to locate.
 
Yup, as I understand the standard number for an RCD is BS (EN) 61008 and the current standard number for an RCBO is BS (EN) 61009.
RCD is the generic term used for all products which use the principle of detecing earth fault currents by means of compairing the currents in the live conductors. The term RCD as used in the regs includes RCBOs.
In most situations type AC RCDs are suitable, type A being used where special circumstances exist such as pulsating dc currents or harmonic currents caused by electronic equipment.
Agree with the type rating of an RCBOs overcurrent setting, I don't follow the logic of them not providing type B overcurrent protection RCBOs as they are now generally electronic hence it is important for them to operate in overcurrent mode in the event of a fault.
 
MEM RCBOs can be "B" "C" or "D" ; and also 30mA or 100mA because of the way they are made by clipping a miniature RCD onto any MEM, Eaton or Bill Talisman MCB you like.


My house is littered with the things ;)
 
Big Spark,
I think a potential load of 30A for a shed is too cautious. As the man said, he wants a light (300W absolute max) and a few sockets to run a few tools, presumably one/two at a time (1KW) and perhaps a space heater (3KW) in the winter. I don't see him cooking or taking a shower out there, so lets be fair and allow for 20A. 6mm2 SWA will be more than capable of supplying a garden shed. Besides, why does the size of the cable make the installation more difficult? It simply alters the cost.

However, with this project falling into the notifiable category anyway, I agree that he should in the first instance contact a qualified electrician to seek agreement with the electrician what he can do himself to reduce the costs of the certified work.
 
Kevnurse..I would suggest you reread his original post, then reread my original post, then you will see why I suggested allowing for a 30A supply.
 

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