Fireplace downlights - fusing ?

[SimonH2]

A friend has now bought his marble fireplace, complete with downlights. I'm after suggestions for fusing.

The fire will be a 2kW electric job, and will be getting a FCU with 13A fuse. Now I know most builders would just wire the lights into the same fuse, but I'm thinking that's not the best idea. There should be plenty of room inside the new surround to hide a fuse but then it won't be easy to access. Or equally difficult to find would be tucked in the back of the box if I use a deep box for the FCU (which will be a spur so only one 2.5mm cable).

What would people suggest ?

Lights for Fireplace

• SimonH2
• 13 Aug 2012
• 1

Lighting kit supplied for use with marble fireplace

Also, for your enjoyment, this is the detail of the switch wiring. Now I know this will nominally be hidden inside a marble fire surround, but a male/female blade terminal in the neutral (I'll replace that with a butt crimp)

Lights for Fireplace - switch detail

• SimonH2
• 13 Aug 2012
• 1

Detail of switch wiring

 

[sparkwright]

Use a grid system and fit two fuse modules and one double pole switch. The 13 amp fuse and switch will control both the fire and light. But the light will be wired after the 13 amp fuse module via a 3 amp fuse module.
This arrangement could be supplied from a single spur cable off the ring.

 

[SimonH2]

I had thought of that, but was trying to keep it to a single width plate - it is going to be "on show" right next to the fireplace.

 

[Lectrician]

If you are going to panel mount that dodgy switch somewhere, can you not panel mount a round fuseholder below or adjacent to it?

Also - You say if you hide a fused spur away somewhere it will be tricky to get to - what about the transformer? That needs to be accessible for maintenance too.

 

[SimonH2]

Hmm, that's a thought - but then I'm "a tad wary" of starting to drill holes in his new marble fireplace, he's told me how much it cost.

For access, I was thinking of leaving the mantlepiece with as little as possible sticking it down - just enough to it can't rattle or slide off. That way, it could be lifted off if needed.

So far, sparkwright's suggestion is looking technically the best. However, I'd need to see if there's a grid option in the range of brass fittings my mate is using - and I don't think there is.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Plan B:

1. A brass blanking plate.
2. A pair of matching breakers from these http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/fuses...4877847&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=4294957372 (I'm sure that other makes and suppliers are available).
3. Some careful work with drills and fine files to cut apertures.
4. Hey presto - 2 switches with overcurrent protection on a single gang plate.

 

[SimonH2]

Ah, now that is an interesting idea - I'll have a measure up.

But since the MIs for the fire will probably say something including BS1363, and BS7671 says MIs need to be followed, by a strict interpretation it wouldn't be compliant.
I won't say anything if you don't

And yes, others makes and suppliers are available - RS aren't renowned for their low prices, though they do have a "quite wide" product range and I rarely find them out of stock.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You're allowed to deviate as long as it's just as safe.

 

[IJWS15]

On a slightly different line . .

We have a similar fireplace with downlights, ours are 240v GU10s and it came with standard lamps, one about 2" away from the downward facing switch making it very easy to touch the lamp when reaching for the switch.

To avoid burns the standard Gu10s have been replaced with LED bulbs - you may want to suggest a similar swop.

 

[SimonH2]

Good point, though it won't be me getting burned fingers
These are 12V 20W halogen lamps.