First ever stud wall does it look ok? Garage Conversion

[vallumlj]

I made a start the weekend and got down the 2x2 floor with Chipboard on top. Do I need to do anything else to the chipboard eg spray glue over the joins or expansion foam anywhere?

I also starting the stud wall on the back wall. Does this look ok so far ?

I am not going to be able to fit the studs every 400mm up to the wall so if I need to make a middle one say 300mm will that be a problem, as long as there is one up tight at the end of the wall and it is in the middle of the plasterboard sheet.

Once the back wall is done where do I start the stud on the left wall ( Breeze Block ) is that 400mm from the corner. Or do I need one in the corner. I am a bit confused about this part. I am going to use 1200mm plasterboard.

Thanks for the help. Go easy on me first time I have ever done this.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Just keep fitting your studs at 400mm centres or it could send your joints out if using 1200mm wide boards. If the remaining measurement after your final stud before you come to the corner is less than 400mm so be it.
You will need a stud in the corner of breeze blockwall to fix to, if it's 2x2 your using you will have a slight problem, as the stud work will be level to each other on both walls, which will mean you can't fix boards up.
So either fix the board up on the brick wall first then fit you breeze block wall stud or fit some extra timbers to the brick wall stud to give you a fixing point.
ie double up that stud.
The cable on the socket will need to be moved too, so you can board up, so a hole in the head plate, no closer than 50mm to the front of the timber, where boards are being fixed, that will reduces chances of a screw accidently penetrating the cable.

 

[vallumlj]

I'm using 4x2 so that should be ok? I think I understand now so for the breeze block wall I put a 4x2 up tight to the stud already on the brick wall and run every 400mm again.

Is that right ?

Thanks for the help.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I'm using 4x2 so that should be ok? I think I understand now so for the breeze block wall I put a 4x2 up tight to the stud already on the brick wall and run every 400mm again.

Is that right ?

Thanks for the help.

If you put your stud up tight to exisiting on brick, you will find you will not be able to fit your board to that stud (brick wall) as it will protrude out and cover that stud.
So either add timber to that to bring out, so can fix or fix that board first.
Then install your starter stud.
From starter stud, measure in to corner allowing for 12.5mm board width, 400mm centres of the next stud and then 400mm centres from that to your next one. This will mean when your 1200mm wide board is fitted, it will rest half way across a stud.

 

[vallumlj]

Ideally I would like to plasterboard after all the studs are up. I am being slow today what do you mean bring it out? If I using 4x2 where would i put the first stud on the breeze block wall?

Thanks for the help

 

[vallumlj]

For the Breeze block wall do you mean leave a 12.5m gap for the plasterboard then start the stud wall. So in theory it will be 12.5 mm away from the stud on the brick wall.

Thanks

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Right, lets see if there is better way to explain/get my point over.
Picture one and three.
Shows 4x2 stud work on a brick wall and a breeze block wall with no stud work.
When you put your first upright stud in to the corner that is adjoining brick wall and block wall, on the block side
What will happen to the stud that is currently in the corner attached to the brick wall?
The stud you are fixing will lay over the front of that stud, therefor not giving you a fixing point in that corner for your first plasterboard on the brick wall stud.
So you need to either fix that first board up on the brick wall or install another upright in that corner (brick wall) so you can fix to it.
Try putting a length of your 4x2 in the corner and you will see what I mean.

 

[Master of None]

Have a read of the electrical forum incase you are running those cables outside of safe zones.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Have a read of the electrical forum incase you are running those cables outside of safe zones.

If vallumlj, is stud walling 4x2 on each wall, as the pictures show, the cables will be concealed within the wall at a depth more than 50mm.
So should comply to part p and BS7671:2008.
But it is a fair point.
Link for you
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

Also beware of cables that are totally surrounded by thermal insulation, there will be a derating factor to be applied, as it does reduce the current carrying capacity of the cable.

 

[vallumlj]

I know what you are saying if i put a stud up tight to the wall it would block the orignal stud. You said I would need to fit another one up right surely that would be on the breeze block wall and not the brick wall as that would block it again.

Is that right. If it is the breeze wall do i leave a gap for the plasterboard or am i totally wrong.

If it is the brick wall how do I do that and not block were I would fix the plasterboard?

 

[jamesarm]

Hey chap,

If you have any plasterboard put it on the brickwall stud, then build your blockwall stud up to it

 

[jamesarm]

Or add an extra upright in your brickwall stud that will protrude further than your blockwall stud. if its approx 100mm deep stud, bring the new upright proud of this

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

vallumlj;
Lets look at your first picture, the stud wall on the brick wall.
You have a 400mm centre studs, ending with one in the corner adjoining the breeze block wall.
So if you bring in another stud from that corner (still on the brick work wall) approx 3 inch from it( your final stud in corner), that will give you fixing point for your board and allow you to stud out the block wall.

 

[^woody^]

Space the studs at distances to suit the plasterboard - 600mm centres for 12.5mm board, or 400mm if you like.

Noggins go at mid-height or at the board edges if the board is not full height - not randomly as it appears now

Keep the face of the timber flush or your boards wont fit properly and will bounce - it looks like some noggins and the top plate are set back slightly from the studs

 

[Master of None]

Have a read of the electrical forum incase you are running those cables outside of safe zones.

If vallumlj, is stud walling 4x2 on each wall, as the pictures show, the cables will be concealed within the wall at a depth more than 50mm.
So should comply to part p and BS7671:2008.
But it is a fair point.
Link for you
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

Also beware of cables that are totally surrounded by thermal insulation, there will be a derating factor to be applied, as it does reduce the current carrying capacity of the cable.

Sorry I thought 50mm was to do with RCD protection. Did not realise it applied to safe zones. Thanks for putting me right.
OP please ignore my post.