First time working with MDF - advice on joining and cutting

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Hi all,

I've offered to undertake a small project to build a stable for my daughters model horses to her design.

I've looked at similar buildings on offer and they're all made with 9mm MDF.

I can get the straight cuts done to size by the supplier of the material, but I will need to cut out some parts for doors/windows, as well as joining it together. I'm not a joiner, but I enjoy a bit of basic DIY, so I'm just lookng for some advice.

To cut out the door/window openings, I was looking at using my jigsaw, but unsure on the blade to use (TPI) as I've been told MDF "rips" on the edges when cutting if you're not careful.

Also, I need to join the various pieces together at right-angles to make the outside frame, so I was wondering what the norm is, whether it's to pilot drill and screw direct into the edge or whether glueing is acceptable/workable and if so, any particular screws/glue to recommend to use.

The total size of the structure will be around 800*400*300 mm, mounted on an oversized base.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks.

Mark
 
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Try Correx as opposed to mdf, simply mark the edges where you want a fold/corner and tape the final edge. I don't know the configuration of your sizes, but I guess 800 L x 400 D x 300 H if that's correct then a 2400 sheet cut to 300 wide will fold to provide 800 > 400 > 800 > 400 rectangle. The remaining Correx can then be cut to give a roof with some left over for internal partitions. Use the UV 4 - 6 mm kind, not the floor protect as it falls to bits quite easily, whereas the thicker UV lasts a long time when treated with care. It can be got in an assortment of colours and if theres a box making factory somewhere close, you can often get scraps of large sizes free.
Modelers papers can be used to wallpaper the Correx, brick, wood, roof tiles etc. and all can be done with a knife and straightedge + a set square. You'll also need some good clear tape, 2" wide I would say + a dollop of imagination ;)
...pinenot :)
 
Thanks for the reply.

Correx is one I'll have to google as it's not something I've heard of before.

[EDIT] After looking at it, I'd still prefer to have a go in MDF. Thanks anyway.
 
You could find that a hand coping saw is more successful than your jigsaw, but in either case you'll need to practice on some scrap material first.
Ideally, the finer the blade the better, and you'll see whether to cut from the front or behind.
Final edges can be sorted with an ordinary file.
Screwing the corners together will split the material, so consider using ordinary white PVA glue with a 10mm square bearer behind to give you more glue area.
Please be aware that MDF dust isn't the best for the lung!
John :)
 
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Thanks for advice John...I'll give that a go in regards to the joining, as well as trying out the cuts when I get my hands on some scrap pieces.

Cheers.

Mark
 
Dolls house web sites are a good source of info for model making, lots of miniture hinges etc and suitable for thin mdf.
 
I made a small corner cover from MDF for some pipes at the top of my boiler, and finished in wall emulsion. It looks great. I used a jigsaw (wood blade?) to cut some offcuts from B&Q (50p each, I only used one). The jigsaw produced an absolutely perfect cut. I G-clamped a straight edge to the MDF to guide the jigsaw, and clamped it in a portable bench. There was a little spitting when screwing in the edges (oops, lesson learnt, not visible though), obviously it needs pilot holes. It sands beautifully with a power sander.
 
Oh, and because screwed butt joints will have little strength, you might want to cut some triangles for the corners. Glued dowel joints might work too.
 
Thanks for your input. Much appreciated.

Looks like I'm going to go with left over laminate flooring that I'd forgotten about in the loft, but I guess it's a similar construction as MDF and she'll get a nice wood effect finish too.
 

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