Fitting full length end panel to kitchen units where there's a worktop overhang

[Mech_Man]

Hello,

I am looking to fit a full length end-panel to my existing kitchen units (similar to the photo 4) in order to add a pantry/larder unit. The existing laminated worktop and the upstand overhang the base unit by around 10mm (see photos) which would prevent the end-panel to sit flush against the side of the base and wall units.

I was wondering what the best way is to overcome this issue?

Do I need to trim back the worktop and the upstand and if so, what is the best method to do that to get a clean cut?

I would appreciate if anyonw could throw some light on this please?

 

[ktuludays]

Nothing easily done there to trim back in situ. Messy job to remove worktop too.

Is the wall unit flush with worktop or end of bottom unit? If former then perhaps add 10mm of white trim to front edge of lower unit side panel to fill void under worktop and fit new tall end panel as you want to.

 

[Mech_Man]

No the wall unit is flush with the bas unit so the worktop edge has to be trimmed back

 

[ktuludays]

No the wall unit is flush with the bas unit so the worktop edge has to be trimmed back

Or fillet pieces fitted in gap between full end panel and the two units.

I just can't think of a way of cutting that worktop neatly in situ. You could try a circular saw with fine tooth blade but it'll stop shy of the back due to the frame of the saw. You could then finish the last bit with a hand saw.

 

[Alec_t]

Can't you just use a shorter end-panel with its base scribed to sit on the worktop, albeit supported by only 10mm of worktop? The worktop end would then be inside the larder and could have a batten attached for additional support of the panel if desired and/or to support shelving.

 

[Mech_Man]

Or fillet pieces fitted in gap between full end panel and the two units.

I just can't think of a way of cutting that worktop neatly in situ. You could try a circular saw with fine tooth blade but it'll stop shy of the back due to the frame of the saw. You could then finish the last bit with a hand saw.

I was thinking of cutting the excess with a router as far back as possible and then as you suggessted, Hand-saw the last peice?

 

[ktuludays]

I was thinking of cutting the excess with a router as far back as possible and then as you suggessted, Hand-saw the last peice?

Go for it. It's not a bad idea if you can handle a router

 

[foxhole]

Jap flush cut saws are good for finishing.
https://www.axminstertools.com/shok...MIiMm-1Iey7gIVjsLtCh1i2gqTEAQYEiABEgLElPD_BwE

 

[Mech_Man]

Can't you just use a shorter end-panel with its base scribed to sit on the worktop, albeit supported by only 10mm of worktop? The worktop end would then be inside the larder and could have a batten attached for additional support of the panel if desired and/or to support shelving.

If I used a shorter panel between the wall cabinet and the new larder unit, there would still be a gap between the base unit and the larder cabinet?

 

[Mech_Man]

Jap flush cut saws are good for finishing.
https://www.axminstertools.com/shok...MIiMm-1Iey7gIVjsLtCh1i2gqTEAQYEiABEgLElPD_BwE

Would that be good enough to cut a 40mm thick laminated worktop?

 

[ETAF]

would a bit of furniture board white , with a bit of white finishing tape iron on
Does Not need to be the full depth - just the front. section , and a bit at the back to screw the larder unit to
Not sure what the underside of the wall units are or the sides
BUT i would be tempted as said earlier

Or fillet pieces fitted in gap between full end panel and the two units.

I have actually done something similar in a property and painted the side panel to match the doors, with B&Q dulux match.

Also used on a larder unit to scribe on a wall and skirting which was out.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Would that be good enough to cut a 40mm thick laminated worktop?

I very much doubt it. Japanese saws are designed to work with softwoods and mild hardwoods, so using one on laminate is asking for teeth to snap off. I wouldn't risk mine that way, that's for sure

 

[foxhole]

Would that be good enough to cut a 40mm thick laminated worktop?

Fine for the final couple of inches into the wall.

 

[lynchnigel]

I was thinking of cutting the excess with a router as far back as possible and then as you suggessted, Hand-saw the last peice?

Yikes! I would take the edging strip of and router it if possible, getting a clamp on the back edge is going to be a challenge thought.

 

[Mech_Man]

would a bit of furniture board white , with a bit of white finishing tape iron on
Does Not need to be the full depth - just the front. section , and a bit at the back to screw the larder unit to
Not sure what the underside of the wall units are or the sides
BUT i would be tempted as said earlier
I have actually done something similar in a property and painted the side panel to match the doors, with B&Q dulux match.

Also used on a larder unit to scribe on a wall and skirting which was out.

I'm not sure if I could find a finishing tape to put on furniture boards that would match the existing doors colour/finish as they are glossy Anthracite.