Fitting Spirotech MagnaBooster MB3 DIY

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What would be the best or Simplest way to for a home diyer to flush the hot water/heating system out to get rid of some of the particles/rust that may be in the system?
I appreciate that it may not get rid of everything that's in there.

I don't really want to disturb anything, unless I have to.
 
Check this recent tread... //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/flush-vs-power-flush.441240/

particularly JohnD's informatititive post.
Thks, that is helpful and i had read it before.

"circulate it for four weeks, drain, rinse, refill,"

I was really after more detailed, step by step (idiot-proof) instructions about the
drain, rinse and refill bits.

And how to bleed the air out of the system after refilling.

Thanks

Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/flush-vs-power-flush.441240/#ixzz3kwhayGXI
 
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  1. Isolate power to boiler
  2. Locate F&E header tank in the loft. Tie up ball-cock with string and length of wood or whatever is to hand
  3. Manually open zone valves (S-Plan) / mid position valve (Y-plan). Your diagram indicates an S-plan.
  4. With a hose and jubilee clamp drain from the stopcock above the boiler to an outside drain. Drain off remainder from a drain valve on a ground floor radiator.
  5. When it looks like the flow from the ground floor radiator has slowed down open radiator bleed valves upstairs and then those downstairs until the draining has completed.
  6. Close stop-cock above boiler, close all radiator bleeds plus the ground floor radiator drain valve!
  7. Take a bucket and sponge to the F&E tank and carefully bale out the remaining liquid / crud / sediment ensuring none goes down the F&E pipe. If the F&E tank hasn't got a lid buy one.
  8. Release the ball-cock valve and as it fills add the cleaner (Fernox F3 or Sentinel X400)
  9. Bleed air out of the system from air vents and bleed the radiators
  10. Power on boiler and fire it up so that heating and hot water are both on, run for 10 minutes or so. Let the air gurgle about, hopefully it will go up the F&E pipe, some may go to a radiator or two.
  11. Turn off boiler and bleed all the air vents and radiators. Repeat step 9, hopefully not too much air is stuck.
  12. Run system normally but make sure all radiators get circulation of heat
  13. After 4 weeks repeat steps 1 - 6
  14. Re-fill system with fresh water and repeat steps 8 - 9. Repeat so it's all nice and clean.
  15. You may wish to fit the Sprirotech filter at this stage, if it's possible.
  16. Re-fill system with appropriate inhibitor (Fernox F1 or Sentinel X100),
  17. Bleed out the air and you're done
 
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That diagram is one I just picked up just to give an example. It is not a diagram of my system (although it is very similar).
I think I may have the Y-plan system (will try and get photo later).

The pump seems to have 3 settings.
Which setting should the pump ideally be on?

When would you use the other 2 settings on the pump?

Thanks
 
I added extra step to previous post, that is to open radiator bleeds near the end of the draining.

Pump setting will depend on the size of your system and the minimum flow rate required by your boiler. Chemicals required for above process may need doubling depending on size of system as well.
 
Due to the limited space, it it possible to use a flexible (instead of a rigid 22mm copper pipe) in the return pipe near where the Magnabooster will fit.
See photo FlexiblePipe of the sort of thing I had in mind.
 

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  • FlexiblePipe.jpg
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A cheap easy way to clean a system is to chemical flush as stated, then on a small easy to drain radiator fit a drain off radiator valve, then stick a couple of good quality earth magnets onto the back of the radiator. Flush that radiator out every couple of years........job done!!! These Magnacleans are a waste of money, Emperiors new clothes!!!
 
personally I would add step 2a - bale out all the mud and sediment from the F&E tank and sponge it clean before you start draining. If there is any sign of fungus or bacterial slime, wipe it, and the lid and float, with bleach and rub off with a dry cotton cloth.

It's no benefit to let extra dirt down into the radiators.
 
PipesFloorBoard2.jpg
Update:-
I've removed the floor boards and created a bit more space. But it is extremely tight there.

I have some compression fit elbows (22mm) and am thinking of fitting them at the corners marked 1,2,3 & 4
The return pipe would be cut at 1 & 4, hopefully i can get a pipe slice in there.
The Magnabooster will go in the bit marked in green (obviously it is not to scale).

However the bit marked in blue, I think this will be too short so I won't be able to fit a pipe there with the compression elbows.

Any thoughts on how to complete this.
Going up isn't an issue, but going horizontally form 1 to 4 is extremely tight.

Thanks
 
From 2 - 3 (blue) you could use a U-bend... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15mm-22mm...rn-bend-plumbing-diy-new-u-bend-/161161553662

If so then it may well be better all-round to get a plumber in to solder 90 degree bends off the return flow pipe as well as the U-bend. If you decide to get someone in to solder make sure the filter is fitted between 1 - 2 before that final 90 degree bend is soldered!

I would also feel inclined to support this additional pipework to the wall with a couple of pipe clips (along 3 - 4 may be best place for that).
 
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