Flexible tap connectors

[JBR]

Apologies if this has been answered before, but I cannot find it in the search facility.

I have a new monobloc tap that comes with 12" flexible connectors. The distance from the tap to the pipes (or rather the isolating valves) to which they will connect is only about 8", though. Would it be OK to connect them with a small curl to take up the extra length, or will this cause problems.

Sorry if I sound a bit thick, but I've never done this before!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Providing you don't kink the flex you will be okay, it may add a little more resistance between valve and tap but should not be any issue.

 

[JBR]

Thanks for your help.

If it does cause any pressure drop, or other problem, I suppose I could buy shorter flexible hoses. I'm not sure if they do them to fit a specific tap's thread, though. I'll search if need be.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Thanks for your help.

If it does cause any pressure drop, or other problem, I suppose I could buy shorter flexible hoses. I'm not sure if they do them to fit a specific tap's thread, though. I'll search if need be.

Hi JBR.

The braiding on the outside of the flexi will help to support the inner pipe if it's curved a bit. The water inside pipe will also help support the shape of the pipe. Just avoid any tight kinks that crease the flexi. It's better that it's a little too long rather than stretched.

If you do buy other flexis, you need either 10 or 12mm threads on the tap end. And buy WRAS approved flexis.

Good luck!

WS66

 

[JBR]

Thank you WS.
I'll try the 300mm ones then - when I get round to it!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I suppose I could buy shorter flexible hose

You could but not sure anything less than 300mm is common or available never come across them less than 300mm.
The other alternative, providing it does not affect access to the iso valve, is shorten the supply pipes.

 

[JBR]

You could but not sure anything less than 300mm is common or available never come across them less than 300mm.
The other alternative, providing it does not affect access to the iso valve, is shorten the supply pipes.

No, I haven't seen any on the internet. I don't want to mess about with copper pipes if I can avoid it. I don't know much about joining them - things like 'olives', for example (the only olives I understand are those you eat!). Do you have to apply any sealant, for example, when you attach an isolator valve to a copper pipe?

 

[Charnwood]

Speedfit do 6"/150mm swivel flexis.

 

[Whitespirit66]

I don't know much about joining them - things like 'olives', for example (the only olives I understand are those you eat!). Do you have to apply any sealant, for example, when you attach an isolator valve to a copper pipe?

Very easy. Just a smear of jointing compound for me. Many don't bother with this, but it was the way I was taught, so more habit than anything.

As ever, Youtube is your friend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u77SJgIS4mY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpIh1u_Y3h0

 

[JBR]

Speedfit do 6"/150mm swivel flexis.

Thanks, but I think 6" would be a bit short.

 

[JBR]

I don't know much about joining them - things like 'olives', for example (the only olives I understand are those you eat!). Do you have to apply any sealant, for example, when you attach an isolator valve to a copper pipe?

Very easy. Just a smear of jointing compound for me. Many don't bother with this, but it was the way I was taught, so more habit than anything.

As ever, Youtube is your friend.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u77SJgIS4mY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpIh1u_Y3h0[/QUOTE]

Thanks again. Those videos, especially the first one, are very clear. I think if I need to work with copper pipes I'll try the compression fitting on its own. If there is any leak that can't be sorted by tightening the nut, I can try PTFE tape.

As it is, I think I'll begin by connecting the flexi pipes directly to the isolation valves, although I've read that some people consider the taper in which the olive sits, being a bit sharp, can damage the washer in the flexi pipe. I suppose I'll just have to be careful not to tighten the nut too much.

 

[mogget]

Thanks again. Those videos, especially the first one, are very clear. I think if I need to work with copper pipes I'll try the compression fitting on its own. If there is any leak that can't be sorted by tightening the nut, I can try PTFE tape.

As it is, I think I'll begin by connecting the flexi pipes directly to the isolation valves, although I've read that some people consider the taper in which the olive sits, being a bit sharp, can damage the washer in the flexi pipe. I suppose I'll just have to be careful not to tighten the nut too much.

You'll likely end up with a leak if you connect the flexi's direct to the iso valves. It can take a few years to show up too.

If you use ptfe, remember that the sealing face of the olive is the one that faces the compression joint. You put the tape on the olive, not the thread, and don't do the fittings up with all your strength!

Another vote for jointing compound here, I use Water Hawk.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

A tub of jointing compound is going to cost you £3-£4, well worth the investment, if you are fitting compressions.

 

[JBR]

A tub of jointing compound is going to cost you £3-£4, well worth the investment, if you are fitting compressions.

B&Q do this one, which is about the price you state:

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing...White-Jointing-Compound-9271684?skuId=9281384

but the details include the statement 'Not suitable for potable water'. Obviously, for a kitchen tap, we would be drinking the water. Is this something I should be worried about or is there some other jointing compound that I need?

 

[mogget]

If you've got any plumbers' merchants nearby, pop in and ask for a tin of water hawk or equivalent.