Fused spurs

[davedasave]

Hi hope you can help, my re wire is going well thanks to all your help on here, just a quicky though

I want to put wiring in for a cooker hood in the kitchen (obviously), an extractor fan in the bathroom and an outside light which will be switched from inside (without movement sensor)

Firstly, to spur off the ring main i have laid already, do i have to spur it from a socket outlet or can i chop into the cable before it reaches the socket, put a junction box in and spur it off that, the reason i ask is in the bathroom the closest socket is in the dining room below and the cable runs under the floor in the bathroom right under where i want to put the fan. is that ok? or can i run it off the upstairs lighting circuit?

Secondly, for the cooker hood, i haven't quite finished the ring in there yet so can i just go from the socket to the left of it, to a double pole switch, and then to the next socket. and from the double pole switch ( which has a neon light on ) to an unswitched socket behind the hood so i can just plug it in?

Thirdly, are outside lights mounted on walls ok to run from the downstairs lighting circuit? i'm not sure what the wattage is but its one of those bright ones! or will it need to be off the ring? i've used 1.5mm for the lighting circuit.

Thanks in advance

 

[Steve]

your writing: my writing:

Firstly, to spur off the ring main i have laid already, do i have to spur it from a socket outlet or can i chop into the cable before it reaches the socket, put a junction box in and spur it off that, the reason i ask is in the bathroom the closest socket is in the dining room below and the cable runs under the floor in the bathroom right under where i want to put the fan. is that ok? or can i run it off the upstairs lighting circuit? you can put a junction box here, but ONLY if it is accessible. definition of accessible is debatable though, when it comes to floorcoverings. Carpet=ok, laminate=not ok, tiles=not ok. Also requires that floorboard to be easily liftable in future (screwed down, write on it that there's a JB below)

Secondly, for the cooker hood, i haven't quite finished the ring in there yet so can i just go from the socket to the left of it, to a double pole switch, and then to the next socket. and from the double pole switch ( which has a neon light on ) to an unswitched socket behind the hood so i can just plug it in? yes

Thirdly, are outside lights mounted on walls ok to run from the downstairs lighting circuit? i'm not sure what the wattage is but its one of those bright ones! or will it need to be off the ring? i've used 1.5mm for the lighting circuit. if its 500w (really bright one), the feed should ideally come from the downstairs ring main.

on the lighting circuit, this load is about half the total capacity for the circuit, so this isn't recommended.

 

[davedasave]

cheers mate, big help

So i can't take the feed for the bathroom fan off the lighting so it comes on with the lights? or will i need a second switch or a fan that is sensor controled so it comes on when it thinks it needs to?

for the light outside, is it best to spur off the kitchen ring to the light itself then to the switch like a normal light or can i spur it off to the switch then run a cable from that to the light?

cheers buddy

 

[Steve]

So i can't take the feed for the bathroom fan off the lighting so it comes on with the lights? or will i need a second switch or a fan that is sensor controled so it comes on when it thinks it needs to?

for the light outside, is it best to spur off the kitchen ring to the light itself then to the switch like a normal light or can i spur it off to the switch then run a cable from that to the light?

1. you never mentioned doing the fan from the lighting circuit. This is the normal way of doing it, and there are several ways to do it. see for reference thread for a few helpful diagrams.

2. take a spur from the ring, to a switched FCU on the wall (forgot to mention, this is what you need for the hood, an FCU with a switch, not a double pole switch, though some FCUs are double pole). From the FCU, run 1.0 or 1.5mm² arctic flex or hi-tuff outside to the light.

 

[davedasave]

well done!

you've gone and confused me now

1. wheres the reference tread?

2. can i use 1.5 or 2.5 t&e to go to the light or does it have to be special stuff?

3. the cooker, if i include it in the ring do i still need a switched fcu?
i've done the same for the washing machine point. put a dp switch with neon light (20amp) at worktop level which is included in the ring and then run a 2.5mm t&e from the switch to a non switched socket outlet behind the washing machine, is that ok or not? and can i do it for the hood? cheers matey

 

[Adam_151]

1. wheres the reference tread?

At the top of the electrics forum

2. can i use 1.5 or 2.5 t&e to go to the light or does it have to be special stuff?

T&E shouldn't be exposed to the elements as the UV content in sunlight degrades it, if you are running straight through the wall and in to the light then thats ok (not quite sure what type of light it is, if its one of those floods might be not possible to do this), but if you want to run it outside then artic flex is probably a better bet, or possibly even just normal black pvc flex

3. the cooker, if i include it in the ring do i still need a switched fcu?
i've done the same for the washing machine point. put a dp switch with neon light (20amp) at worktop level which is included in the ring and then run a 2.5mm t&e from the switch to a non switched socket outlet behind the washing machine, is that ok or not? and can i do it for the hood? cheers matey

Yes, as long as you are going to connect it via a plug, all loads on a ring must be run via a fuse, this can either be in a BS1363 plug top, or if the appliance is being hardwired without a plug or being conencted via an unfused plug such as a BS546, then an FCU should be used[/b]

 

[davedasave]

cheers adam

so as long as i plug the hood into a socket it will be ok cos the plug has a fuse in it, same with the washing machine

for the light i have 3 core pvc flex which was used for a car, will it be ok to use it for 240v instead of 12v? it doesn't say its specific for 12v

 

[Adam_151]

cheers adam

so as long as i plug the hood into a socket it will be ok cos the plug has a fuse in it, same with the washing machine

But it should be noted that what you have created for the washing machine is an unfused spur, albeit one with a DP switch in it, a an unfused spur can only supply one outlet

for the light i have 3 core pvc flex which was used for a car, will it be ok to use it for 240v instead of 12v? it doesn't say its specific for 12v

No, you need to use flex/cable thats properly rated for the situation you wish to employ it in, buying the correct materials will hardly break the bank, so that is the correct course of action, rather than using someone you found in your shed from an old car