Garage Electrics provided by downstairs mains ring

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if I asked a Policeman whether my car will do 80mph on a motorway, he'll probably reply patronisingly that "I shouldn't because its illegal".
He may reply by saying "Yes, but have you had the brakes tested?"

Seriously, testing is important.

If you're as keen on doing the work and, presumably, like doing it, why not get a test meter - some cheapies on ebay - then you will know if the work is safe.
You never know; you may have made a mistake.
 
if I asked a Policeman whether my car will do 80mph on a motorway, he'll probably reply patronisingly that "I shouldn't because its illegal".
He may reply by saying "Yes, but have you had the brakes tested?"

Seriously, testing is important.

If you're as keen on doing the work and, presumably, like doing it, why not get a test meter - some cheapies on ebay - then you will know if the work is safe.
You never know; you may have made a mistake.

Thanks for your reply. I do seriously understand the requirement for testing and I appreciate that it has to be done.

I did at an earlier stage consider buying some testing equipment but didn't as I genuinely intended to get someone in, but working full-time, juggling life whilst tackling a full house renovation on a limited budget is hard work and so it didn't ever happen. Thats also why I seem to tackling multiple projects concurrently, I'm at the planning stage for a few and hoping to tackle them shortly.

I guess its an investment as this sort of equipment doesn't seem to depreciate in value - if you can guide me in a reasonably priced unit that'll suffice for my home-based needs (nothing commercial level) then I'll get straight onto it...and then nag you on how to use it :D
 
you never know, you may have made a mistake.

exactly... however much you concentrate and know your job, very occasionally you may come across an instance where you have reversed the polarity at a socket outlet or pinched a live conductor whilst screwing up a plate. its rare but dead testing and then rectifying the fault before energising is then not bad workman ship. too many people just do the bang test.
 
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you never know, you may have made a mistake.

exactly... however much you concentrate and know your job, very occasionally you may come across an instance where you have reversed the polarity at a socket outlet or pinched a live conductor whilst screwing up a plate. its rare but dead testing and then rectifying the fault before energising is then not bad workman ship. too many people just do the bang test.

I appreciate that testing myself doesn't replace an electrician's full test, but I do want to get some kit so that I can at least test the basics, continuity etc - can you point me to some sub £200 (ideally) kits that would be worth considering? Hoping to buy something this week if possible!
 
you could hire and muti function tester. but you will need to know the tests and sequence involved and how to do them. look up GN3 for a starting point and then consider if you want to go ahead. Gn3 however will not tell you the correct installation methods.
 
you could hire and muti function tester. but you will need to know the tests and sequence involved and how to do them. look up GN3 for a starting point and then consider if you want to go ahead. Gn3 however will not tell you the correct installation methods.

My tests won't replace those of an electrician, but I'd like to at least be able to do the basics and the important tests.

I have used Fluke equipment in the past, its bloody brilliant but I can't account for their electrics range, would something like this suffice?

http://isswww.co.uk/VoltageContinui...ter-Kit-with-Holster-and-IAC/?source=googleps

Or this perhaps?

http://www.easupplies.com/EXTECH-CB10KIT-Electrical-Troubleshooting-Kit-p/ti14ak.htm
 
My tests won't replace those of an electrician,
They must - there is absolutely no justification for DIYers to work to a lower standard of safety than a professional.

It's not a game.


but I'd like to at least be able to do the basics and the important tests.
The important tests are the ones electricians do.


I have used Fluke equipment in the past, its bloody brilliant but I can't account for their electrics range,
It's good.


would something like this suffice?

http://isswww.co.uk/VoltageContinui...with-Holster-and-IAC/?source=googleps[/QUOTE]
That's basically a multimeter. Won't do.


Or this perhaps?

http://www.easupplies.com/EXTECH-CB10KIT-Electrical-Troubleshooting-Kit-p/ti14ak.htm[/QUOTE]
That does things you don't need (circuit breaker finder??), and does not do things you do (continuity tester? Appears to have just red/green lights - no measurement indication). Voltage detector/flashlight - that little torch with croc clips?). It does not look like it was designed for the UK market.

It is not GS38 compliant.

You need:
  • Insulation Resistance tester
  • Continuity tester
  • Earth Fault Loop Impedance tester
  • RCD tester
(a & b are often combined)

Or a multifunction tester.

And the testers need to be the sort that give readings of actual values.


I appreciate that testing myself doesn't replace an electrician's full test,
If you want to energise it must.


can you point me to some sub £200 (ideally) kits that would be worth considering? Hoping to buy something this week if possible!
You ought to be able to get decent s/h kit on eBay for £2-300 - depends how lucky you are and/or how long you want to wait for a bargain to turn up. And turn up they do - this recent one was particularly good, I thought: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METREL-61557-MULTIFUNCTION-TESTER-LOOP-RCD-INS-CONT-/320764399772

If you can get a multifunction, or set of 3, testers with calibration certificate(s) for £300 or less consider that a result.


Setting yourself a deadline of a week is going to need a lot of luck.
 
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Be quick. Free tester.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Robin-Dig..._ET&hash=item4600f4ead3#ht_605wt_1306[/QUOTE]
Very good price for that lot.

IMO it would be wise, when bidding on something like that, to contact the seller and ask him if he would be happy to make the deal conditional on him getting the kit successfully calibrated for an extra £100 on top of the selling price. If he says no, realise that you are taking a risk if you bid, because you are going to have to fork out that £100 or so and might find there's something wrong.
 
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Bit of an old thread but I'm considering finally sorting out these garage electrics.

As a reminder, previously my kitchen ring circuit had a spur which went to an FCU, and then out to the garage via armoured cable. I wasn't particularly happy with this arrangement, despite the very low power requirements needed in the garage.

During the refresh of my kitchen ring, I removed the spur which went to the FCU, and instead I have looped the ring into a new FCU which at present has nothing connected to its 'LOAD', in preparation for the planning that I am doing now. The garage is currently unpowered.

I am considering instead installing an external weatherproof dual-gang socket like this, which the FCU will link to as its LOAD:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTPS201.html

I could then run the garage cable straight into this box instead of into the FCU (as per the original installation prior to me replacing the FCU). I appreciate that the supply to the garage is limited by the fuse in the FCU, but power consumption in the garage is literally for the occasional car lamp, electric pump or otherwise.

The other advantage is that I then have an outdoor socket that I can use this whenever I need to power a lawn mower (for example).

I appreciate your views or alternative suggestions.
 
As long as everything is protected by the fuse in the FCU then you can have whatever you wish.

If you have a light in the garage this will need another FCU with 3A or 5A fuse.

Since April 6th this work - outside power - is no longer notifiable but as above it should, of course, be tested to ensure that it is safe.
 
As long as everything is protected by the fuse in the FCU then you can have whatever you wish.

If you have a light in the garage this will need another FCU with 3A or 5A fuse.

Since April 6th this work - outside power - is no longer notifiable but as above it should, of course, be tested to ensure that it is safe.

Thanks dude, much appreciated, and understood RE the FCU for the light, will do.
 

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