Great, a gas leak...

clf-gas said:
3, Steel or copper tube fitted with additional soft covering material. Covering should be soft and thick enough to provide movement, yet strong enough to support the concrete whilst it sets. The covering should be min 5mm thick (Denso?) and resilient to concrete ingress..

Pipe lagging sounds like an acceptable means of protection then from this statement?
 
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Thanks for accepting Denso!

Did wonder if I had missed a beat and it was now no longer acceptable.

My apprentice would kill me!

4 days a week his wife will not let him touch her.

Dave
 
Told my apprentice the best way to get denzo gunge off your hands is to use polypipe solvent cement :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: He's not talking to me now :eek: No sense of humour these young'uns
 
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Basic kuterlex coated copper is £7.02 + VAT per metre sold in 6m lengths by Plumb,

Kuterlex Plus 22mm is £230.30 + VAT for a 25M roll. This is the one that is graded as sleeved ;)
 
Cheers it was one with built in sleeve i was after, think i wil stick with inch pipe for sleeving at that price.
 
I have a problem with what the CDA are saying about concrete not corroding copper. Something's wrong here. Have they never seen copper pipe corroded away in rad tails where it enters the, er, floor of "grey stuff which is set hard?" Or where it's buried. I know I have.
I wouldn't know a tonne of fly ash if it fell on my head, maybe that's what was used.

Unless you're going to use long coils of soft copper under the floor, surely the problem with the yellow pipe is the joints. They still have to be covered. I've used the ribbed Polypipe conduit which slides over the lot, and will go round a bend up out of the floor no problem.
 
Blimely, opened up a can of worms.. :eek: what Sam said
Pipe lagging sounds like an acceptable means of protection then from this statement?
To be honest, that's what I thought originally as well. The copper piping has been lagged all the way in the cement, so unless the joints, have somehow eroded, in the space of serveral months, I just don't get how a leak can occur as it was all orginally tested? Mind you, I could be very lucky, and it could prove to be on a visible stretch of piping.. Personally, I think now it would have been better to use the special plastic yellow pipe, enclosed in either pipe lagging or better still the ribbed Polypipe conduit as mentioned by Chris, in one long stretch when burying, without requiring ANY joints in the cement. :cry:
Although 'kuterlex' as mentioned by gas4you sounds like a good idea albeit costly, I guess you would still have to have joints underground no?
 
Yes unless you use the 'plus' version on the roll. There is a guideline to cut back the plastic coating when jointing to allow it to be replaced after jointing.

You need deep pockets to use this though :eek: :rolleyes:
 
stumpynut said:
Told my apprentice the best way to get denzo gunge off your hands is to use polypipe solvent cement :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: He's not talking to me now :eek: No sense of humour these young'uns

Thats about as nice as telling someone to clean their pond with D Block.

:eek: :eek: :D :D :D
 
the old meter that was removed, did it have lead pipe from meter to copper pipe,if so check wiped joints first. gavin
 
v12bug said:
yeah you're right.. beginning to wander if it was all worth it! With underfloor heating,............still don't get how a leak can occur though after several months..

Did the gas pipe get disturbed when the underfloor heating was fitted and was the expansion of the floor taken into account. Copper pipe and concrete expand at different rates when heated. If the pipe is unable to move in the concrete ( ie the ends are tight fits in the concrete ) then it will be subjected to pulling and pushing as the concrete expands and contracts. One joint in a long run buried in concrete and odds are the joint will fail.
 
stumpynut said:
Told my apprentice the best way to get denzo gunge off your hands is to use polypipe solvent cement :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: He's not talking to me now :eek: No sense of humour these young'uns


aww your nicer than my old guv

when I was an apprentice he told me the only way to remove silicon I think (it was a long time ago) was to pee on it

oh how they laugh the master bators

:)
 
Working for gas board we use to rocol (black main tap ) the van door handles and windscreen wipers of any gas van we seen parked in street and if they had left it unlocked we done steering wheel inside door handles and the hand brake lever. Other one was several smoke bombs taped to exhaust manifold would take about a minute to ignite usually as the van stopped at a big roundabout just up from depot. Sometins we done some work. :LOL:
 

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