Heated towel rail problem

[fishtaxi]

I have just fixed a leaking radiator, and replaced a leaking boiler fill loop, so was feeling pretty pleased with myself.
I then went to add the inhibitor through a heated towel rail, so I closed the feed valve at the bottom and started undoing the nut on (what I thought was) the drain valve.
When I removed the nut/plug thing (which was under a plastic cover), no water came out and there was a metal rod protruding from the centre, which was threaded in.
I began undoing this rod, but it would not come out fully- it now just spins, and has blocked the threads for the nut/plug to go back in, and however much I turn it, the threads remain blocked.
No heat is getting to the radiator now either, as I've blocked the pipe.

Have I knackered the valve, or is there a way to sort it?
Thanks.

 

[TeaTime]

I don't suppose you can post a photo can you.

Are you saying this 'rod' is in the rad?

 

[fishtaxi]

One harmless looking valve which has ruined my day.....

I removed the plastic cover, to reveal a nut/plug thing with a seal- which I also removed, hoping this would enable me to drain the towel rail.

This left the central 'rod', and as no water was draining out, I tried unscrewing this.
It just span and span, which drove something out and concealed the inner threads- preventing me from putting the nut/plug back in.

I realise now that I was undoing the feed valve, as when I turned the water and the boiler back on, hot water gushed from the 'rod'.
Like this.

The water stops leaking when I screw the plastic cap back on, but there is nowhere for the metal nut to screw into anymore, and the central 'rod' will not screw in any further- feels like something will break if I try to force it.
So now, I just want to get it back together, as the rail is stone cold as I appear to have blocked the water flow.

Any advice mucho appreciated.

 

[TeaTime]

What it looks like to me is, you have tried to strip the valve down. Unless you can put it back together as you took it apart, you might need a new one.

Why were you trying to drain it this way anyway?

It doesn't have a dedicated isolation & drain a, so you will have to drain the whole system down in my opinion.

Get a new valve while your at it.

 

[TeaTime]

I think you are looking for something like this: -

http://www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/EN...db03&Rid=a926f8b8-00e6-4c49-a4fd-eac2bc8a79f5

Without it, you will need to drain the whole system down to remove the radiator.

 

[TeaTime]

Also, next time, just add the inhibitor via the bleed pin on the top, if you can drain sufficient water from the rad.

 

[TeaTime]

Putting the valve back together,

turn the 'rod' back the opposite way, closing the valve.

screw the nut back in, put the cap back on, adjust the valve back to it's original position and hope for the best.

Then think about draining the whole system down to do what you want to do.

Remember, you will probably need to vent the rads now after adding more water to the CH system via the filling point.