Hi all, apologies, I know all the experts probably get tired of coming to the aid of DIYers. Having a grand total of two wires to move, I didn't expect there to be much of an issue installing. I would appreciate any assistance in getting my Hive to a point where it actually turns on the boiler.
I was replacing a VRT392f which is wired externally to the boiler and cabled in to the eBUS terminals. The RT 230v and RT 24v terminals were linked. As per the manual, the polarity for the eBUS connection is irrelevant. All works fine with this setup.
So, I plug in the hub and set about sorting the receiver.
After isolating everything...
I removed the link (loop) on the RT 230V connector. I remove the connections from the eBUS terminals inside the boiler and connect them to the RT 230V connectors.
At the other end, I connect to terminals 1 and 3 on the Hive backplate. There is no obvious indication of polarity for these connections at the boiler side (see attached images)
I provide a fused 3A spur to the Hive receiver from the same power that is providing the boiler. I have not looped from the boiler to the Hive receiver since the terminals are far too small.
I close all cases etc. and fire up the boiler. It promptly comes on and stays on constant.
A quick read of the manual (page 30) states "If you connect a 230V AC time and temperature control to the boiler, then remove the bridge at input 24V = RT."
I re-open the boiler, remove the bridge, close it up and start the boiler and receiver back up again.
The boiler boots and stays off this time. I manually call for heat, I hear the relay switch and, the boiler does nothing.
There are no fault codes showing on the LCD display and as far as I can tell, the receiver has no effect on the boiler's operation.
I've attached images below showing the wiring - which obviously isn't "hard" - so why doesn't the receiver activate the boiler when it calls for heat (green light is on and the relay clicks)? Is it related to the previous use of a VRT392f that I now need to tell the boiler to not use the eBUS? Does the eBUS need a loop now instead?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
I was replacing a VRT392f which is wired externally to the boiler and cabled in to the eBUS terminals. The RT 230v and RT 24v terminals were linked. As per the manual, the polarity for the eBUS connection is irrelevant. All works fine with this setup.
So, I plug in the hub and set about sorting the receiver.
After isolating everything...
I removed the link (loop) on the RT 230V connector. I remove the connections from the eBUS terminals inside the boiler and connect them to the RT 230V connectors.
At the other end, I connect to terminals 1 and 3 on the Hive backplate. There is no obvious indication of polarity for these connections at the boiler side (see attached images)
I provide a fused 3A spur to the Hive receiver from the same power that is providing the boiler. I have not looped from the boiler to the Hive receiver since the terminals are far too small.
I close all cases etc. and fire up the boiler. It promptly comes on and stays on constant.
A quick read of the manual (page 30) states "If you connect a 230V AC time and temperature control to the boiler, then remove the bridge at input 24V = RT."
I re-open the boiler, remove the bridge, close it up and start the boiler and receiver back up again.
The boiler boots and stays off this time. I manually call for heat, I hear the relay switch and, the boiler does nothing.
There are no fault codes showing on the LCD display and as far as I can tell, the receiver has no effect on the boiler's operation.
I've attached images below showing the wiring - which obviously isn't "hard" - so why doesn't the receiver activate the boiler when it calls for heat (green light is on and the relay clicks)? Is it related to the previous use of a VRT392f that I now need to tell the boiler to not use the eBUS? Does the eBUS need a loop now instead?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks