Honeywell port valves....

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l think l have (not sure unless someone can tell me the difference) 2 2 port valves and they are'nt working.. The honeywells have levers on the side and are sloppy with no resistance...
Can l take the main cover of if it's the old type, as l would like to put some WD40 on the spindle to see if it's seized and that is the problem...
If this does not work can l buy a replacement motor/actuator instead of taking the whole lot off where l presume it would need the system draining..
Could someone tell me what size copper pipes they are to the port valves, is it 22mm...
 
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The lever is supposed to be sloppy when the program is calling.

If you turn all the power off the valve should return to rest, not sloppy, if not the valves are stuck, unlikely both are though.
 
What makes you think they are faulty.

But yes you can just replace the "heads" on the honeywell valves so you wouldn't need to isolate any water.
 
With the power off the levers are sloppy...
The timers not working at all, l have to fire the boiler by switching the spur on and off to shut the boiler off...
l was told by someone that the having faulty port valves with make the timer inoperational...
 
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if the valves are jammed open then the timer (if wired as per the sundial s-plan) will be overridden.

only the newer valves can have the heads changed.

is there a little dome on top of the valve covers?

can you post a picture?
 
Agreed the honeywell valves with the raised spot ontop of the actuator cover should mean that they can be replaced with little issue
Simply take the the actuator of the valve body to clarify where the problem lies or better still pay an industry professional to come and sort it out for you :LOL:
 
if the valves are jammed open then the timer (if wired as per the sundial s-plan) will be overridden.

only the newer valves can have the heads changed.

is there a little dome on top of the valve covers?

can you post a picture?
Yes l believe it's the S-plan...
Trouble is when l switch the spur switch on to fire the boiler up l have no control over H/W & C/H .. they both come on.
Is this what you mean by the timer being overridden.
The valves do not have a little dome on the top so l presume they are the old ones, but can l take the top cover off and spray some WD40 on the mechanism..
What honeywell valve part would l need if replacing and can l use other than honeywell....
 
if the valves are jammed open, the internal switches will call the boiler to come on.

if they are the older type then you can try some WD40, or maybe 3-in-1. but it will only be a temporary fix if anything.

ultimately you will need to drain down and replace the valves with new. if replacing the whole valve is tricky, draining down and just replacing the internals (ball, plate, o-ring and head) is your; not choice.
 
Honeywell port valves are 22mm or 28mm. l'm not sure which one l need, which one is most often used on the pipes, how can l tell..
 
The spare heads and top plate kits are the same for different pipe sizes. It does sound as if yours are both stuck wide open.
 
The spare heads and top plate kits are the same for different pipe sizes. It does sound as if yours are both stuck wide open.
Yes l reakon so, and untill l get these valves done l cannot use the programme timer..
They have no dimple on top of the valve cover tops so it looks like l will have to replace them and they are in a really difficult place in the airing cupboard at the side of the hot water cylinder with no room to move :( any tips on removing and fixing new one's on...
Will l have to drain the system or is there a plumber's quick way..
 
Any help and advice on removing and fitting new port valves please..
 
If access is difficult to undo the valve/pipe joint is the routing suitable to remove a section of pipe, that includes the valve, at a more accessible point. Even cut the pipes and after swapping the valves, remake the cut.
System will need draining.
 

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