Honeywell to Hive conversion (ST699)

[Ben86]

I have a similar set up, It looks like all the live is common and I only have a on switch for water and heating. Does this look right to you?

I was thinking based on the current set up
Honeywell 3 to Hive 4 (Heating)
Honeywell 6 to Hive 3 (HW)
And L to L and N to N.
Does that make sense to you guys, I appreciate that this is an old thread. Trying to keep sane during this lock down.
Many thanks for any help you can offer.
Ben

 

[stem]

I appreciate that this is an old thread.

For future reference, you should have started your own new thread. Adding your question to someone else's is known as Hi-jacking and is against the forum rules. Don't do it now though, otherwise you will be duplicating your posts which is also against the rules . With your own new post you also stand a much better chance of someone seeing it and replying than scrolling through 3 pages of old thread to get to it.

Anyway, lecture over . Your assumptions are correct, you are simply swapping like for like. The terminals are identically marked. [The Hive has the wire links fitted to the Honeywell already made internally.]

The Hive default setting is for fully pumped systems, if yours has pumped heating and gravity circulation of hot water as the earlier posts on this thread, then the modus operandi will need to be changed.

The blue wire in Honeywell 3 is being used as a live wire, so should have a brown sleeve over it to indicate this.

EDIT
I see the Mods have created a new thread for you.

 

[Ben86]

Very much appreciated, It’s good to know I haven’t totally lost my marbles.
I guess it’s easy to see that I’m a green to the group.
Many thanks again and I promise I’ll try and stay out of trouble haha.

 

[AdrianB100]

Not sure if anyone can help, but I have a challenge I am struggling with changing the Honeywell for Hive.
I thought all was well, but we have no Hot Water this morning, so definately not working correctly, I am sure I have missed something out here.

4 pictures to hopefully help

Old Honeywell Wiring
New Hive Wiring
Junction Box
Junction box showing wires to motorised valve

The green wire going from the Hive Dual Channel ends up `i think going to the Red wire that is most likely going to the Tank Stat, this ends up on the purple wire of the motorised valve

Thx

Any help gratefully received.

Adrian

 

[AdrianB100]

Apologies, I appreciate I should have started a new thread, now reading the comments. Not sure how I could delete this now and reopen a new thread, happy to do so if someone can advise.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

If you want it deleting report your thread, which goes to a mod/admin, and they will either delete or create a new thread for you.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Does the heating work? It appears there’s nothing in the terminal with the orange wire from the zone valve to bring the valve open, and it’s normally the grey and orange. Did the hot water work previously?

 

[AdrianB100]

Chris, yes it all worked previously.
The heating did not work straight away, to fix this, I connected two of the wires on old Room Stat and that worked fine.

Re the Zone Valve
The grey wire on the zone valve is going to the Live wire on the Hive
The orange wire on the zone valve is going to the boiler I think

Thx

Adrian

 

[stem]

As far as the moving the wires from the Honeywell to the Hive go, they appear to have been moved over correctly. The green wire in Honeywell 6 [Hot water NO (on)] has gone to Hive 3 [Hot water ON]. Which you say was confirmed by it working properly when you first installed the Hive.

The wiring centre terminations are bad /unsafe on a several levels and ideally should be completely redone properly. However, as you tell us that it was working originally, the wires go to where they should do. It's possible that there is a wire somewhere that has been disturbed.

The easiest first check is the motorised valve wiring and the valve itself as follows:

The green wire would then go to the hot water thermostat which in turn goes to the motorised valve brown wire. So that when the Hive and Cylinder thermostat are calling for hot water, the valve opens. Is that happening? There should be a manual lever on the HW motorised valve, with the Hot water set to be 'on' the lever should feel 'loose' and slide across easily without you feeling resistance. Is that the case? or is there some resistance? If there is no resistance the valve has opened and is working, if not, either the valve, or its wiring is at fault.

 

[AdrianB100]

Stem, Thx, I will check.
We moved into this house 3 weeks ago, its needs alot of attention and I agree the wiring needs completely re-doing.

Adrian